-MATRiX-

Hello all,

First I would like to say that I somehow have been unable to find my login credentials for my old account and it isn't recognizing my email address I used, so "forgot password" isn't working, either. So... hi? Again?

Secondly, I've been having some issues with my 8 for a while now (since I bought it, actually). The first post I made a while back is here: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...e-heat-224860/

Stats:
'05 Manual
Base model
156k miles on original engine and tranny

New parts as follows:
-plugs
-plug wires
-ignition coils
-Godspeed aluminum radiator
-Samco silicone hoses
-SOHN OMP adapter
-JEGS oil filter relocation kit
-Sickspeed (I think) oil filter sandwich adapter
-RB Water temperature sensor adapter
-RB REVi intake
-RB header
-RP supercat
-RB muffler
-pre-cat O2 sensor
-catch-can w/ breather (closed off old vacuum line)
-engine mount (right side)

Those issues still persist (though greatly diminished), but they seem to pale in comparison to this new issue. I had the car decommissioned for about a year to fix up a fender bender and to "once-and-for-all" fix the low-power-in-heat issue that was caused by blocked OMP lines, resulting in poor lubrication of the front rotor.

Having gotten the car out of the shop, it had some horrible issues (stalling at >4000 RPM being the main one) which could be attributed to having nasty old gas that sat for a year (Seafoam and a fresh tank of 91 took care of that).

After taking care of the bad gas, I noticed that the car liked to hesitate in the higher RPMs, especially when I hit around 7000. It also threw CEL codes P2070 and P2259, which it never did before being in the shop. Since one of those was for the AIR system and one for the SSV, I did some rudimentary tests on them. I checked with a vacuum gauge the SSV solenoid, which seemed to work just fine (pulling 25 or so mmHg at around 3.5k). I couldn't get a read with the AIR solenoid (so it could be a problem), but I just unplugged the AIR pump, which seemed to change exactly nothing. Using a long scredriver as John316 suggested, I was able to directly move the SSV, which seemed to not have too much resistance, considering the angle and such. I also did a vacuum leak test, and couldn't find any.

But just a few days ago, when driving it, I was revving quite high (~8000) like a rotary needs, and after that one rev, she started rumbling a bit (sounded like an ignition coil or plug went out) and wouldn't idle. Wouldn't even try. I could run it just fine above 1500 RPM, but below it would just sputter out. Flooring it and letting the needle fall would be a pretty smooth drop down to 0. When she died, it was hard as heck trying to get it to start again. I thought maybe it was flooded, but following the de-flooding procedures didn't seem to help. I parked her and tried cleaning out the throttle body the next day with some Seafoam spray. Note that this was not a full cleaning--I simply sprayed some in one of the vacuum lines on the fresh air collar. She was able to run without too much help during that process.

But just this morning as I was trying to drive her, she wouldn't hold idle at all and refused to start. It'll crank just fine, but will not start.

Now, I've been thinking that the SSV and throttle body both need cleaned and for good measure I should replace the AIR and SSV solenoids, and it probably wouldn't hurt to get a compression test. I only know of one place nearby that will work on RX8s (trust me, I've looked), and that's a dealer who loves to use the whole "needs a new engine" bit around.

Am I on the right track? I don't think the previous owner of this 8 ever took it in for the engine recall, and even if he did, it's waaaay out of warranty by now. And considering he never took it in for the engine replacement, I'm fairly certain he didn't get the ECU flashed, either. There is a sticker under the hood for recall service done on 11/06/06 (campaign no: 4206F, dealer code 34545), but he never said what that entailed. I don't think he knew, but he said it's the original engine, so I assume they left it alone. Or he just had no idea. Craigslist. Fun times. I've done a fair bit of searching, but I just wanted to be sure. Thanks, and I eagerly await any helpful responses.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

At that mileage and with what you have done......you need to get a compression test done

If that is good it is worth chasing other stuff....but most likely thing is compression loss

-MATRiX-

Which means I'll be in the market for a new Renesis?

-MATRiX-

Okay, so the compression test came back how I'd feared. There were low results around the board, but one of the seals was completely blown and returned almost no compression whatsoever. I've been quoted somewhere around $6250 for a new Renesis. Is that a decent price? It seems a bit steep. Of course, around here in OKC, the only places that do it are dealers--no one else wants to even touch them.

Khurram

That's a decent dealer price.
You can get the reman from Dealer for 3100 to 3500 and have it installed at a local mechanic of yourself.

Also, you might want to look in to Mazmart's renesis, it will be 3500 but a better quality engine.

You may also want to look into having your own engine rebuild.

-MATRiX-

I keep hearing about Rotary Resurrection. I bought some stuff from them before and it all went great, but I've never had them do service. I could theoretically have the entire thing done (engine rebuild) for ~$2800, but I'd have to haul it out to Tennessee. I had tried another dealer and they wanted nearly $8k. Mazmart only has one for an A/T right now, which is no bueno for me. I also have a friend who runs Gooichi Motorsports in KS who has a friend who is a rotary fanatic. I'll give him a call. Much shorter commute.