Ok guys I didn't search for this because due to my lack of car knowledge I am not really sure how to articulate this but the night I picked up my RX8 from the dealer (before parking it for the winter that night lol) I got into a situation at a stop sign at a steep incline where I ended up stalling twice trying to pull away and ended up pretty much gunning it and dropping the clutch to get through it. It has been bothering me because although I have never owned a standard car before I have spent may years riding and racing motorcycles and usually have no problems doing whatever I need to clutch wise.

Now I know this issue was probably due to lack of my skill but I was wondering if there was a modification that would make the RX clutch engagement point more noticeable and grabby to the point where I could more easily find that spot that the clutch is grabbing enough that if I let off the brake it will either stay or pull ahead slightly (on the flat).

My other question related to this is when modifications like lighter fly wheels warn of reduced drivability is that related to this sort of thing, like making the car more difficult to creep with? is the lighter pulleys another thing that will exacerbate this?

 

there is an adjustment for the clutch pedal free play, which makes a big difference if its out.

the clutch pedal itself can break too, so you should look at that while you're in there.

 

On method for getting started on an incline is to use the parking brake, rather than the foot brake, to hold you. This allows you to use your feet on the clutch and the throttle peddles.
Once you get used to using your feet for the clutch, rather than your hand, you won't have to resort to this anymore.

A lightweight flywheel will indeed make it more difficult to start from a stop, until you get used to it. I have had a LWF in the car for over 7 yrs. It was my first mod.

You don't loose enough mass in the pullies to make it worth it in my opinion. Changing the size of the pullies will change the speed of the water pump. This is done to eliminate impeller cavitation while the engine is running at high rpm.

 

Clutch Pedal Adjustment.

http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar..._S01_0498.html

 

RX-8 CLUTCH PEDAL INSPECTION/ADJUSTMENT --MMC Japan

Clutch Pedal Stroke Inspection/Adjustment

1. Measure the clutch pedal stroke.




•
If there is any malfunction, loosen locknut A and adjust the pedal stroke with adjusting bolt B. Tighten locknut A after adjustment.


Standard pedal stroke •
130 mm {5.12 in}


Clutch Pedal Play Inspection/Adjustment

1. Lightly depress the clutch pedal by hand until clutch resistance is felt and then measure the pedal play.


Standard •
Clutch pedal play

5—15 mm {0.20—0.59 in}

•
Clutch pedal push rod play

At push rod setting line :

0.1—0.5 mm {0.004—0.020 in}

(Reference value)

At pedal pad :

0.5—2.9 mm {0.020—0.110 in}


2. If it is not within the specification, loosen locknut C and turn push rod D to adjust the pedal play.

3. Remeasure the pedal play and, if it is within the specification, tighten locknut C.

Clutch Disengagement Point Inspection

1. Start the engine.

2. Without depressing the clutch pedal, move the shift lever slowly to the reverse position until gear noise is heard and hold the lever in that position.

3. Slowly depress the clutch pedal and hold at the point where the gear noise stops (clutch disengagement point).

4. Measure distance A (from pedal not depressed to clutch disengagement point) and verify that it is within the specification.




Clutch disengagement stroke (Reference value) •
A: 111.8 mm {4.402 in}

 

Thanks guys will have a look at the pedal adjustment (used to keep a nickel width of play on the levers of my clutch levers, this looks a little more complicated lol) and will give the emergency break on steep stop and starts in the spring, it makes sense.