SandMan0987

I went in to get my engine compression tested and it came out too low. Mazda is paying for a new engine. The car is at the dealer being torn down and waiting for a new engine to be shipped. I'm assuming it'll come in early next week.

I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions on what else I should have them replace (I will pay for these parts, of course) to save on labor charges. I was thinking about getting new coils, spark plugs, ignition wires, engine mounts and clutch. Is there anything else that you know of?

Do you have any past experience with the engine replacements under warranty? Any advice will be great. Thanks!

kops

iTrader: (1)

Sorry I do not have any advice for you, as I am in a learning stage on this forum...but could I ask what yr/mileage was on the car?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

You are getting a re-manufactured engine, not new. Was your engine consuming a steady amount of oil before the failure? Either way if it has high mileage I would replace the oil injectors and possibly the OMP lines if finances permit and you plan to keep the car for a while. Other than the clutch is a given. But you can do the plugs, coils, and wires a lot cheaper on your own.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

you can clean the oil nozzle with brake cleaner, but i doubt most dealership ppl knows how even its as simple as spray on. why? cuz its not found in fsm!!!

i would have them check the clutch bracket, and replace if necessary.

j9fd3s

maybe not in this case, as the coils plugs and wires have to come off anyways.

LittleZ360

I'd pay the extra labor to have the techs go through the intake manifold and clean the valves up an all.
They take the intake manifold from your old engine and toss it on your reman'd engine.

I say this because a week after having my engine replaced I had some SSV issues. In the end I went through a lot of trouble getting to the valve myself to clean up. There's a good DIY for it, but I would have forked over the $ to have it done with the motor out.

On a side note, I think the upper and lower intake manifold should be cleaned/rebuilt if not replaced when an engine is being replaced under warranty... But then you'd think that'd include plugs, coils, and wires too.
I suppose whatever you'd normally get on an ordered crate engine should come with the warranty replacement... But that's an arguement I don't have time to persue :/

SandMan0987

It's a 2005 with 80k..ish miles. Oil consumption was consistent. Never ran low on oil. Where are the oil nozzles? Is this something I can clean on my own? The coils, wires, plugs are free labor because they come off anyway. Intake manifold looks like something I can do myself with basic tools if it causes any problems. I'm mostly looking for commonly failing parts.

What parts should I replace with the clutch? My flywheel should be okay, so I'm thinking just the friction plate and throwout bearing. How much is the clutch bracket? Maybe I'll get that replaced as well if it's cheap enough..

BTW, the dealer is not very cooperative with extra repairs. I probably won't have too much time to decide about additional parts after they receive the new engine.

SandMan0987

Found a list of parts for the clutch. See attached image. My local dealer will match these. I'm wondering which of these parts are necessary to replace. I currently do not have any issues with the clutch.

Can I just get the "Disc", "Pilot Bearing", "Release Fork", "Release Bearing"?

Is it a good idea to get a new "Pressure Plate" as well? How about the "Ring Gear"? I have an idea of what all these parts do except the Ring Gear. Can someone explain what this does?

Will they need to remove the hydraulics while replacing these parts? If so, should I have them install a new slave cylinder (around $50 for the part) as well?

I'm wanting to install only the parts that will save money on labor. If there's something that costs the same amount to replace when it fails down the road, I'm not going to touch it for now.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Get the whole set. Don't be cheap.

why? because Disc matches the Pressure plate wear pattern, so if ur disc is almost gone. chances are ur pp will see some sort of wear too.

get the PP, Disc, Pilot bearing, and Release Bearing(Throwout bearing)

you should also get Pilot bearing seal, Although the rubber inside that tiny *** seal will self-destruct in a few thousand miles anyway, meh I mean WHY not it's just a few bucks.

There is a chance the Release Fork might "crack", but they usually last the life of the car if it was lube(quality grease) and installed properly.

EDZRIDE

iTrader: (1)

I'd recommend you replace the pressure plate as well.

The ring gear is the part that the starter engages to turn the engine over. It doesn't need replacement unless it is severly worn or has a section of teeth missing.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

The oil injectors are a million times hard to get to than plugs and coils.

They are expensive and fail often, even after cleaning them they still aren't 100% functional and will fail shortly after the "cleaning".

Get a new clutch kit from exedy, get oil lines and oil injectors.

I'd go with the BHR ignition kit eventually, but seriously you can do it yourself. a 10 year old could figure it out.

SandMan0987

I priced the OMP lines & oil injectors. It comes out to around $550ish.

I also looked at different Exedy clutch kits. Sounds like Stage 1 or OEM are the only ones good for street driving. I found a few kits on amazon and am having trouble deciding. None of them list what parts they come with, but the OEM & Stage 1 (10803A) show the throwout bearing and pilot bearing in the picture, while the Stage 1 HD (10803AHD) only shows the pressure plate and friction disc. Do you have any idea if these kits include all parts (throwout bearing, pilot bearing, pressure plate & friction disc)?

OEM:
10803A:
10803AHD:

Can these be bought cheaper somewhere else? Which Exedy kit is recommended for street use (50% city & 50% highway)?

I also read some reviews & it sounded like some people experienced clutch chatter with Exedy single disc, while ACT performed better. Is there any truth to this? Maybe I should be looking for ACT instead? They're both cheaper than going OEM route from the dealer. I should know soon the condition of the clutch and will need to buy parts right after that.