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Clutch Master Cylinder Bad

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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 06:38 PM
  #1  
Brian Henning's Avatar
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From: Reno, NV
Clutch Master Cylinder Bad

So i took my 8 in to get the clutch bled the other day and before they even got to bleeding it they came back and told me that my clutch master cylinder was leaking. I have one ordered and it should be here at the latest monday. My question is whether this is a simple enough project for a novice mechanic like me to do or should I just pay $180 to go get it installed? I looked at what needs to be done to remove and replace it and it seems like it could be simple but I just dont want to F it up. I have also looked all around for a DIY for the replacement of this and cant seem to find anything. Help?
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 07:40 PM
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I did mine about 3 weeks ago. It is really easy disconnect the hoses on the master cylinder, unscrew the 2 nuts by the clutch pedal, take out the old Master cylinder, install the new one then bleed the system and check the clutch pedal adjustment. Taking you time, if its your first time it should not take more than 2 hours. if you get stuck post on here and someone will help you out.
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Old Nov 14, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by wrightcomputing
I did mine about 3 weeks ago. It is really easy disconnect the hoses on the master cylinder, unscrew the 2 nuts by the clutch pedal, take out the old Master cylinder, install the new one then bleed the system and check the clutch pedal adjustment. Taking you time, if its your first time it should not take more than 2 hours. if you get stuck post on here and someone will help you out.
Thank you I appreciate it. When removing the hoses from the master cylinder do I need to cap them off to prevent the brake fluid from leaking out of them or no?
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 07:13 AM
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If you want you can, the lower hose should be ok if everything is connected because the pressure will hold it. The top one might lost what is in it if you don't cap it but I just pointed the end up. If you do get air in there I recommend bleeding from multiple points alone the line. I bough a speed bleeder and sucked the fluid through the Master cylinder prior to connecting it back up, which limits the amount of air in the line.

You will probably lose all pressure on the pedal just keep pumping until there is pressure then bleed from the valve on the slave cylinder behind the oil filter. Repeat until the pedal is firm (normal) drive the car and repeat the process, then about 1 week later do a quick bleed again to make sure you have everything removed.

I recommend buying the crows feet wrenches which cover 5 sides of the nut and a speed bleeder which will be about $30 total and you will have the tools for life. You will also need more fluid I used DOT 3/4.
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Old Nov 15, 2012 | 09:11 AM
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Brian Henning's Avatar
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Originally Posted by wrightcomputing
If you want you can, the lower hose should be ok if everything is connected because the pressure will hold it. The top one might lost what is in it if you don't cap it but I just pointed the end up. If you do get air in there I recommend bleeding from multiple points alone the line. I bough a speed bleeder and sucked the fluid through the Master cylinder prior to connecting it back up, which limits the amount of air in the line.

You will probably lose all pressure on the pedal just keep pumping until there is pressure then bleed from the valve on the slave cylinder behind the oil filter. Repeat until the pedal is firm (normal) drive the car and repeat the process, then about 1 week later do a quick bleed again to make sure you have everything removed.

I recommend buying the crows feet wrenches which cover 5 sides of the nut and a speed bleeder which will be about $30 total and you will have the tools for life. You will also need more fluid I used DOT 3/4.
Awesome thank you so much for the info. Good to know that I can save myself almost $200
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 02:03 PM
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you could save someone else the hassle of moving this thread by posting it in the proper area

https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...-forum-163653/
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