Last, night, I changed the front rotors and pads on my '09. There is nothing controversial here... OEM replacement rotors, Hawk HPS pads just like came off, the was nothing terribly unusual. But once done, now the ABS and TCS lights shine constantly. They attempt to reset at each restart of the car, but lit back up in a few seconds.

I've read the thread in the Series 1 forum on this and am working my way through the 14 different possibilities, but I wanted to post this question here and see if anyone else has seen this.

- fuses fine
- brake lights fine
- sensor wires on both sides appear fine*
- brake feel is good, bedding was uneventful

*Here is my current theory, wondering if anyone else has seen this. To get the old rotors off, I had to use an impact drive to loosen the screws that hold them on the hub. PERHAPS hitting the impact drive loosened or damaged one of the sensors? How would I test to detect this?

Appreciate any thoughts here, thanks!

 

have you tried just disconnecting the battery?

 

Don't know about the S2 but the S1 you can turn that off by turning the steering wheel all the way to the left then to the right iirc

 

If you reset the steering angle sensor and it is still on you likely did something to the ABS pump when you were pushing back the caliper pads...you might need to bleed the system. Either that or it's a wheel speed sensor. Either way you should have an ABS code that you can look at if you have the orrect scan tool...might need an OEM iDS to get this straight

 

According to Mazda the RX-8 ABS does not require and IDS configuration.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-te...n-list-239807/

OP, I would disconnect battery, put foot on brake pedal (ONCE) within 40 seconds, reconnect battery, start car, do Steering Initialization which is turn your wheel all the way to left and then right.
Let car warm up a little, turn engine off and re-start and then see 'if' you see a warning light..

If you do, I would then suggest you have damaged a wheel speed sensor...maybe?

 

LOL...but you might need one to read the codes .....faults to the steering, brakes, wheels speed sensors etc will all make that light come on

 

Thanks all, my buddy with the scanner had the wrong one with him, waiting for the right one to come home from his garage to pull the codes. Dannobre, he mentioned the same thing about pushing the pistons back and getting junk in the way of the ABS pump as a possibility. It all starts with the codes :-). I'm going to try the steering wheel reset again, because I went right then left and you all are suggesting the other way.

I will update once I know more, thanks all!

 

That is why you should ALWAYS clamp the line and open the bleeder when pushing back the piston. On any car with ABS. A lot of people don't know that.

9 times out of 10 the system will be ok, but its not worth the risk in ruining the abs pumps. They are not designed to have fluid pushed backward through them. I hope its just something simple for you though.

Also take a good look at the ABS tone rings and make sure you didn't crack one. You will have to pull out the sensor from the knuckle. Also a good time to make sure it isn't something as simple as junk stuck to the magnet throwing off the readings.

 

For those interested, I pulled codes last night: left front missing tooth is what it said, but when watching the graph while rolling the measurement was erratic and wouldn't always fall off, AND we'd get this fault even when resetting codes and immediately rechecking with the car NOT moving at all! So I think the sensor itself is damaged, because I can't think of how it could sense a missing tooth without the wheel rolling.

No time last night to swap left/right sensors to see if the problem moves with it, but that's where I will go next. But it sounds like the sensor is damaged, either by the impact drive or the piston return. I guess I will be pricing a sensor pretty soon, thanks for everyone's thoughts on the matter!