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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 09:17 AM
  #1  
Coty Melancon's Avatar
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From: Tinker Air Force Base, OK
Emersil turbo kits

I need some input from anyone who has/had an emersil turbo kit. And whether or not your kit "fried" you OMP because of the turbo's placement. And if it didn't what did you do to prevent it? The one and only thread I could find on here said that even with heat shielding it still wasn't enough to stop it Any advice and help will be greatly apperciated. Thanks!
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Old Sep 7, 2011 | 10:45 PM
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What kind of " heat shielding ", that is sort of a loose term...

Here is the best solution short of relocating it and doing premix;


http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=129
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 03:06 AM
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From: Tinker Air Force Base, OK
Originally Posted by Turblown
What kind of " heat shielding ", that is sort of a loose term...

Here is the best solution short of relocating it and doing premix;


http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=129
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...hlight=emersil

There's the thread I read about the issue on, three different owners had the issue and one sold his kit because of the issue, and another still has the issue without being able to drive his car. The thread is almost a year old, but I didn't see anything else in the forums and I have PMed them with no response. I just bought this turbo kit. That's why I'm trying to do as much prevention maitenece as I can. They didn't specify the heat shielding, so I kinda had to just leave it at that. Sorry about that.
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 08:46 AM
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That is why we relocate the OMP and require premix on our turbo system. Same thing with hard-lining the radiator lines, you will fry those in time too..

If you are looking into other preventive maintenance figure out which turbo you have, if its one of the earlier ebay units several members have bough replacement direct bolt in Garrett units from us..
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 12:39 PM
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From: Tinker Air Force Base, OK
Originally Posted by Turblown
That is why we relocate the OMP and require premix on our turbo system. Same thing with hard-lining the radiator lines, you will fry those in time too..

If you are looking into other preventive maintenance figure out which turbo you have, if its one of the earlier ebay units several members have bough replacement direct bolt in Garrett units from us..
Alright, next question. Do you think it would be easier to just relocate the turbo then? And just not have to worry about frying anything?
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Coty Melancon
Alright, next question. Do you think it would be easier to just relocate the turbo then? And just not have to worry about frying anything?
If you relocate the turbo you will have to redo everything. It would be cheapest to just have us heat-shield it if you plan on keeping the OMP..

Regardless of turbo position the radiator needs hardlines, you don't want any rubber near a 1600+ deg F turbo system...
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Old Sep 9, 2011 | 11:38 AM
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I have only had the kit on the car for about 3-4k miles now. On my second (some say third) rebuild. I have had no OMP problems as of yet, but i have had a total of Four coolant leaks from the coolant lines running around the manifold. The coolant issue gets old real fast. I have ince decided to hardline the coolant lines. I am in the middle of this project and believe that i am going to try and change the coolant lines up again. Once i modified the T-Stat housing and put AN fittings on, i believe i have made enough room to run Stainless braided teflon lines instead of the aluminum hard lines. Enough room should be made now where these lines will not touch the manifold so the 500 degree max temp of those lines should suffice. As far as the main Rad. lines to and from the Rad. I still need to come up with a plan for those. I believe i can get some 1-1/4" aluminum pipe and have it bent up to match the stock hose routing. Hopefully all of this works.

As fas as the OMP goes. I have NO shielding on the OMP. I have the downpipe, manifold, and all the coolant lines (prior to changing my setup now) all heat wraped wiht exhaust wrap. beyond that i have nothing done for heat shielding.

That being said, I will be looking into makeing some sort of shiled before i put the motor back in from the rebuild. I will try to whip something up that will work well.

As far as the turbo goes, i am not sure if you have bought a new or used kit. However i have one of the first few kits. I have replaced the Turbo, wastegate, oil feed and return lines, couplers, rerouted the cold side piping, coupler clamps, clocked the turbo a differnt directioin, and replaecd the INT-X. The only thing that is original from the kit is the manifold, downpipe, intercooler, and BOV. I hear they have made improvements to the main components but all of mine were replaced because of failure or flaws. Not out of want. Just a heads up if its one of the original kits.
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Old Sep 10, 2011 | 12:26 AM
  #8  
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From: Tinker Air Force Base, OK
Originally Posted by Phish806
I have only had the kit on the car for about 3-4k miles now. On my second (some say third) rebuild. I have had no OMP problems as of yet, but i have had a total of Four coolant leaks from the coolant lines running around the manifold. The coolant issue gets old real fast. I have ince decided to hardline the coolant lines. I am in the middle of this project and believe that i am going to try and change the coolant lines up again. Once i modified the T-Stat housing and put AN fittings on, i believe i have made enough room to run Stainless braided teflon lines instead of the aluminum hard lines. Enough room should be made now where these lines will not touch the manifold so the 500 degree max temp of those lines should suffice. As far as the main Rad. lines to and from the Rad. I still need to come up with a plan for those. I believe i can get some 1-1/4" aluminum pipe and have it bent up to match the stock hose routing. Hopefully all of this works.

As fas as the OMP goes. I have NO shielding on the OMP. I have the downpipe, manifold, and all the coolant lines (prior to changing my setup now) all heat wraped wiht exhaust wrap. beyond that i have nothing done for heat shielding.

That being said, I will be looking into makeing some sort of shiled before i put the motor back in from the rebuild. I will try to whip something up that will work well.

As far as the turbo goes, i am not sure if you have bought a new or used kit. However i have one of the first few kits. I have replaced the Turbo, wastegate, oil feed and return lines, couplers, rerouted the cold side piping, coupler clamps, clocked the turbo a differnt directioin, and replaecd the INT-X. The only thing that is original from the kit is the manifold, downpipe, intercooler, and BOV. I hear they have made improvements to the main components but all of mine were replaced because of failure or flaws. Not out of want. Just a heads up if its one of the original kits.
Thanks for the reply. I was really starting to sweat about this setup. I bought the kit brand new a few weeks back, so hopefully there shouldn't be too many problems. Keep me informed on how that rad setup works. I might have to do the same exact thing.
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Old Sep 10, 2011 | 07:03 AM
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From: Des Moines, Ia
Have you installed the kit yet? Are you planning on doin ghte install or having another do the install for you? When your elbows deep in the engine replacing the manifold it would be the best time to make a heat shield for the OMP if you so choose to do so. Once the kit is on the car, its really hard to work on anything infront of the engine. Way to much goin on up there.
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Old Sep 11, 2011 | 06:58 AM
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From: Tinker Air Force Base, OK
Originally Posted by Phish806
Have you installed the kit yet? Are you planning on doin ghte install or having another do the install for you? When your elbows deep in the engine replacing the manifold it would be the best time to make a heat shield for the OMP if you so choose to do so. Once the kit is on the car, its really hard to work on anything infront of the engine. Way to much goin on up there.
I was planning on doing the install myself with the help of a few friends. So I should just grab some heat wrap and shield the OMP while I'm installing the turbo. Sounds good. I'm waiting on the turbo to get here. Gotta call them today or tomorrow and see what's taking so long.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 12:05 AM
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What was your reason for going with the kit to begin with? Just curious.

Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Sep 12, 2011 at 12:16 AM.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
What was you reason for going with the kit to begin with? Just curious.
Emersil/Clearasil turbos are the best for getting rid of those unwanted spots
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 03:31 AM
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NZ Emersil/Clearasil

Originally Posted by Brettus
Emersil/Clearasil turbos are the best for getting rid of those unwanted spots


LOL.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 06:58 AM
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My reasoning was turbo placement, kit potential, and the deal that i found on the kit. I got it cheap and to me, it was the best kit to build off of at the time of my purchase.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 04:23 PM
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From: Tinker Air Force Base, OK
Same as Phish I like the placement and potential. Something different too.
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 11:17 AM
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OMG look at that ANOTHER Esmeril customer waiting on parts.....I try REALLY REALLY hard to hold my breath when a post comes up about Esmeril comes up but sometimes i just cannot. Enjoy trying to stay in contact with Jason or Christian....I went 8 months with still not a full kit and had a defective turbo and those ****-suckers did nothing!!!! Good luck with dealing with them...serously you will need it....

Im sure they will chime in here saying...well he drove his car before he had all the parts on...I would love to see the proof that they have that I drove it...that car sat in my garage for 4 months and didnt move once. installed everything but the injectors and let it idle to check for leaks and after 3 min of idle, BAM!! oil in the intercooler.......bad seal. I have so far saved 10 other people the head ache of dealing with them when they were gonna buy their kit, sorry i didnt get to you in time.

From one Air Force brother to another.....Good Luck....

Last edited by 1Point3; Sep 14, 2011 at 11:24 AM.
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Phish806
My reasoning was turbo placement, kit potential, and the deal that i found on the kit. I got it cheap and to me, it was the best kit to build off of at the time of my purchase.
Originally Posted by Coty Melancon
Same as Phish I like the placement and potential. Something different too.
Cool, I looked into it but it just seems unfinished to me .
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 12:15 PM
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^^what about it seems unfinished? i'm just wondeing
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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Emersil or Esmeril?
Chipolte or Chipotle?


Welcome back from duty! Enjoy the mod process.
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by warren(silver-roxy-8)
^^what about it seems unfinished? i'm just wondeing

For me it is mainly the fact that it doesn't work with the Cobb, I just don't see the point of going with the Microtech, it doesn't seem like anyone has gotten it to run ideally with the Microtech. I understand they were supposedly going to sell an upgrade to be able to use the Cobb but I don't think that has happened.

It's not just esmeril but I just don't get why someone can't just sell a turn key solution.
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
For me it is mainly the fact that it doesn't work with the Cobb, I just don't see the point of going with the Microtech, it doesn't seem like anyone has gotten it to run ideally with the Microtech. I understand they were supposedly going to sell an upgrade to be able to use the Cobb but I don't think that has happened.

It's not just esmeril but I just don't get why someone can't just sell a turn key solution.
Yeah not working with Cobb is the main problem, from what I hear it's possible to tune it with the Cobb it's just not optimal because of the blow through MAF setup, incorrect MAF housing diameter and the VTA BOV.

Turblown's setup is really nice and probably the best option available right now.
I have the Esmeril Kit only because I got a great deal on a used but basically new kit. I'll be redoing all the cold side piping and clocking the turbo to make room for rerouting the piping which will include a proper MAF housing with 3.375" inner diameter in a pull through setup and recirculating the BOV.
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
For me it is mainly the fact that it doesn't work with the Cobb, I just don't see the point of going with the Microtech, it doesn't seem like anyone has gotten it to run ideally with the Microtech. I understand they were supposedly going to sell an upgrade to be able to use the Cobb but I don't think that has happened.

It's not just esmeril but I just don't get why someone can't just sell a turn key solution.
I'd go with turblown's solution or.. SFR right now. They're both reasonably priced and work as intended.
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 02:11 PM
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Yeah I considered Turblown's but /relocating omitting the OMP is not a good idea IMO for a street driven car. I know many say just premix is enough but I don't know considering the oil injectors also function to cool as well.
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 02:14 PM
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Premix isn't absolutely enough, the directly injected oil helps A LOT against seal chatter.
I thought that Turblown's kit solved the OMP issues... were I wrong?
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Old Sep 14, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bse50
Premix isn't absolutely enough, the directly injected oil helps A LOT against seal chatter.
I thought that Turblown's kit solved the OMP issues... were I wrong?
Did they? I don't know of anyone successfully running that kit on an 8.
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