i want to flush and switch over to super blue. they come in 1L cans. i just want to make sure i have enough and dont have to order twice and get hit with shipping

 

You can do it with one if you are careful.....better to get 2

If it stays sealed the shelf life is good til you need to do it again

 

one liter can is more than enough...especially with just a full flush. If you are doing lines...it may get tricky...but not bad.

 

1 liter is enough even with lines if you know what you're doing, you decide ...

 

Meh.....

When I changed my lines I still needed slightly more than one. Looks like I don't know what I'm doing lol.

It's safe to have (2) bottles unless you've done it a few times. That was my first time changing out the lines on the RX8.

Just take your time when bleeding. I'm sure I wouldn't want to waste or lose my expensive Motul brake fluid.

 

I changed all 4 lines + clutch line, did a full flush and I still have about an inch left at the bottom of the can.

One can is enough unless you spill something .

FYI - If you're doing lines, get SpeedBleeders at the same time. They are so worth it.

 

^^^

That I regret not doing....

 

Yes, butt he is changing to a different type of fluid that you don't want to mix.

 

He's getting a 1liter bottle. That's a quart. He should have plenty to flush the system.
But it's always good to have some on hand for the next time.
Me? I would buy two liters. Sell it to someone you know. Or use it later.

 

Where is the best DIY on brake bleeding in you guys opinion? Everyone I read is a little diff. I'll be doing my lines this weekend too.

 

1. Block a front wheel with a piece of wood to prevent the car from rolling. Raise the back of the car with a floor jack and then lower it onto a pair of jackstands.

2. Remove the rear wheels.

3. Open the brake fluid reservoir and remove as much old brake fluid as possible, using a suction tool or a turkey baster. Be careful not to spill any fluid, as it will dissolve the paint on your car.

4. Fill the brake reservoir to the top with fresh fluid.

5. Place a box end wrench over the bleed screw on the right rear caliper. Push a clear plastic tube over the nipple on the bleed screw and place the opposite end into a catch bottle. Auto parts stores sell nice catch bottles with a cover that prevents fluid from spilling if it tips over, a 1-way check valve in the cap, and a rubber fitting on the caliper end of the plastic line that snaps in place over a wide range of bleed screw nipple sizes.

6. Tell your assistant to pump the brake pedal a few times until it becomes firm. This is especially important if you have just replaced pads. If you've installed new stainless braided brake lines or installed a big brake kit, there may be enough air in the system that the brake pedal will not get firm. That's OK. Just move on to the next step.

7. Tap the caliper a few times with a rubber mallet or "dead-blow" hammer. This helps to knock loose air bubbles that may be clinging to inside surfaces of the caliper.

8. Have your assistant PUSH hard on the brake pedal and HOLD. With a quick motion, open the bleed screw about 1/4 turn. Fluid (and probably a few air bubbles) will flow through the plastic tube and into the catch bottle. A light placed behind the tube will make it easier to see what is coming out of the caliper.

9. Close the bleed screw just before the brake pedal reaches the floor. Don't worry if the timing is off at first. You will quickly figure it out with feedback from your assistant.

10. Tell your assistant to RELEASE.

11. Repeat steps 8 - 10. Do this about 6 times and then go to the front of the car to check the fluid level. You MUST NOT allow the level to fall to the point where you suck air into the master cylinder.

12. Top off the brake fluid level and continue for a total of about 10 pumps or until you no longer see any air bubbles coming out of the caliper.

13. Repeat the process for the other rear caliper.

14. Make sure both calipers are wiped clean of brake fluid and that none has spilled on the rotors or pads. Use brake cleaning spray if necessary. Reinstall the rear wheels and torque to factory specification, then lower car to the ground.

15. Now apply the parking brake, put the car in gear (or PARK) and raise the front of the car with your floor jack. Lower it onto a pair of jackstands.

16. Remove the front wheels.

17. Follow the exact same technique as with the rear wheels, starting with the passenger side caliper. The fluid will flow more rapidly out of the front calipers, so you will need to check the level in the brake fluid reservoir more frequently to avoid letting it drop too low.

18. Reinstall and torque the front wheels, then lower the car to the ground.

19. Top off the brake fluid reservoir and replace the cap.

 

just got my 2 cans in yesterday.^ thats the way i planned on doing it. also doing rotors,pad, ss brake lines all at once

 

now will i have to bleed the clutch line? and does anyone know the bleed port size so i can get some speed bleeders

 

If you call speedbleeders they will hook you up with the right size. http://www.speedbleeder.com/ .

 

These are the Speedbleeders I have, via Summit Racing:

2 speed Bleeders for front calipers RX-8 SB8100 8mm x 1.0 - 34mmL
2 speed bleeders for rear calipers RX-8 SB1010 10mm x 1.0 - 34mmL

 

Ill have to reread all of this... I plan on doing all of this soon. New brake pads, fluids and stainless steel lines...