Hey Guys,

I was planning on doing an oil change this weekend. Im currently using 5w20, as recommended by the dealership, but I wanna make the switch to 10w40. I live in Boston, where it gets pretty cold in the winter. (10-20 F) My mileage is just above 66k, and my last oil change was at 52k. Do you guys think I should make the jump to 10w40? Or do something less/more dense? Also, how will my car's performance change with the denser oil, if it will change at all?

Thanks!

 

i run 10w30....
but then again im in miami...
also why was you last oil change so long ago?

 

Its been a while because I didnt pay attention to the sticker on the service. I dont drive my car hard really. Its a day to day car, and I just top off oil as I go. Now that Im reading around though, it seems as though I should really put more thought into the oil I use because it can be the make/break of my engine..

 

5-30, or 5-40 would be a much better choice.....

 

How does the climate play a roll in the oil I pick? Im just getting into the winter here, and I dont know if the wrong oil may cause problems? Right now I have these oils listed:
Rear Differential - Redline 75W90
Tranny - Redline MT90
Engine Oil - 5W30 (Brand??)

 

5w-30 recommended in our area for Winter (I actually run it year round).

The "5w" refers to 5 degF Winter low end temp viscosity. I know that it rarely gets below 10 degF here, but 5w has become the defacto standard.

The -30 is the Summer viscosity rating (not a temperature range per se, but related) and recommended over the "dealer recommended" -20 as rotaries tend to need a higher vscosity.

edit: your tranny and differential selections are right on.

I like Castrol GTX for my motor oil, but there are a number of good brands.

 

Here's something that should help. I don't remember who first put it up, but I've reposted it several times. Shows engineering, rather than political, oil grades.

Ken

 

Awesome! Thanks guys for the help! I really appreciate it! My other question is how much oil does each of those take? Diff/tranny/engine? Since Im gonna be ordering online, I need to know how much to order...

 

You need to order 2 qts of each for the tranny and differential. The Oil change, with filter, is ~4 quarts.

All the capacities are in your owner's manual.

 

i run 10w30 year around

 

Awesome! Thanks for the help guys.. Really. And I guess I'll make the move to Castrol. I use Mobil1 right now, but since more people use Castrol than other stuff here, I'll go with it! Another question since I'm buying everything online. Any recommendations for sites with Filters and Spark plugs? Anything else I should get replaced while Im at it?

 

Summit Racing for the Redline oils and FinishlinePerformance.com for the filters and 'plugs (Rosenthal Mazda - excellent vendor here). Black Halo Racing (BHR) here has good deals on plugs as well, and sparkplugs.com.

Perhaps new coils?

 

Also, any comments on this?

http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-S...6567794&sr=1-1

 

And where can I get coils? Also, are they easily replaceable at home?

 

Finishline also has the coils and yes they are easy to install with minimal tools/experience. See the DIY.

Some people like Royal Purple motor oil (would not recommend their trans/diff'l oil in the '8)., but everyone likes Castrol GTX. Just grab a gallon jug at Autozone.

 

Awesome, ill do that! Im looking on finish Line, awesome website! Glad you pointed me to them! Im gonna order some plugs, my Redline oils, filter, and some coils from there! My question here is which crush washer should I get? And how many coils?

EDIT:

I figured out the washers, now its just the coils. How many do I need?

 

Get your 'plugs easily from BHR's new site: http://blackhaloracing.com/products-...-heat-ranges3/

The proper oil pan crush washer comes with the oil filter from Finishline - one of the reasons they're recommended.

You need four (4) coils. Again, check the DIY.


If you Really want a solid ignition upgrade to BHR's system. http://blackhaloracing.com/products-...ition-system6/


btw: don't forget to check the cleanliness of your air filter. A K&N flat drop-in is a nice, lifetime, upgrade: http://blackhaloracing.com/products-...ngine/intakes/

 

Great comments from all and you may want to consider changing your plug wires while you are at it. You have to disconnect them to change the plugs and coils anyway. I bought my plugs, wires and coils at Advanced Auto locally. All were NGK OEM parts and I believe the plugs were $20 each, wires were $32 for the set and coils were $22 each. I like dealing with Bricks and Mortar, but that is MHO!

 

wait a minute.

Last oil chanage at 52K and you're at 66K now? wow

If its true. You dont need to change your oil anymore, Cuz your engine gonna go kaboom anyway.

 

Coil location:

 

But he made it beyond 48303. Makes one wonder who should be counseling who.

Ken

 

if I didnt ask for compression test. I wouldn't know.

engine starts, runs, no problem. but it failed test.

yours could be having problems too. you just dont know it. Butt dyno never works.

 

Wow, left for the weekend and im back to the post to find out that my car is gonna blow? Any way of finding out when/how much longer it has on it before it goes "kaboom"?? Im doing the oil changes along with the plugs coils wires this weekend. Are you saying that I should look into selling the car BEFORE it goes "kaboom"???

 

just change the oil now

and be care to not overfill. the renesis only drains ~1/2 of the oil. don't pour in the *normal* 5qt. it takes only 3.7

 

Just don't let nycgps take it in for a compression test.

Ken