Huhwha

I threw a cel - P2096 Target A/F feedback system too lean ON 2 Fuel system . The dealer found the rear oxygen sensor with excessive carbon build-up. They did a fuel injection cleaning and on the short (< 10 mile) drive home, it seems to run better.

What's the root cause? It gets a steady diet of 93 octane gas, but it's normally Giant Eagle store gas. Is there any scientific evidence to say that one brand of gas is better than another? It gets topped up with Pennzoil 5W-20 between oil changes.

Should I be using one of those snake oil injector cleaning additives? It gets "beeped" at least once a day - maybe it needs more? Maybe winter fuel additives or, God forbid, ethanol has snuck into the mix.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

NYC here

Our gas has Ethanol, They added it to boost Octance level, about 10%.

Its more like the Brand of Gas, what other brands you got ?

Or maybe change your Brand of Oil to Royal Purple or Redline? Cuz most ppl found much less smoot just by switching their brand of engine oil.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

cheap gas is usually cheap because they don't use cleaning additives in it

MassiveAttack

In this thread there was the mention of the P2096 code, so I have a question (posted also in that thread) about said code.

I have a REVi ram air duct, but the stock intake box due to a wreck and the fact that the ram air box runs $140, vs. $258 for the stock mess. I remember that the techs at the body shop said there was a vacuum line that they needed to plug that would have gone to the vacuum actuator on the stock air intake. Now my car threw a P2096, and after a day of troubleshooting and data logging MNAO determined that I'd need a new engine. I don't want to argue with getting a new engine, but after not even 40k miles I just don't see that it would be necessary. So, does anyone know if this vacuum port and the air intake vacuum actuator are related?

I'd certainly like the goodwill created if I fix this "huge" problem with a vacuum plug (they might go ahead and spring for replacing my clutch...)

--MassiveAttack

CoupeM

Strange...I just installed a 4.777 final drive and revi air duct today. And my car started going lean on me during cruising and finally it threw a p2096 code. Post cataylst symptom too lean.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

try clearing the ECU trims

CoupeM

Do you mean taking out the battery connector to reset all the long term fuel trims?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

an easier way is to pull the "room" fuse, it's located in the fuse box in the lower kick panel next to the drivers door

r0tor

iTrader: (1)

if you burn an ignition coil out the afr goes through the roof... lets just say i have experience with that and data to show it

CoupeM

After resetting the fuel trims...I still encounter the same problem. I notice that during the night when I am cruising, the higher the rpm and speed, the leaner it goes. I see afr as lean as 16 to 17:1...I am afraid to go any higher.

My workshop keep telling it is the emu that I have but I have already set all maps in emu to zero after the reset. My rp supercat only have 10,000km on it. I see cat temps of btw 1000-1300plus fahrenheit.

CoupeM

An update...apparently the cause of my dtc is the revi ram air duct. It does not match well with my blitz SUS air filter. After taking out the air duct, car is running well again. Look like I cant do a ram air to my car as long as I am using blitz.

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

Weird

CoupeM

I also say...Weird.

Without the air duct, my afr, ltft and stft seem fine but with the air duct, my afr keeps gg lean when cruisin and at high speed. stft already max itself out by adding 25%...seem like if i want to use the air duct i have to use a standalone ecu..like the interceptorX.

CoupeM

Yup I have checked all lines. No prob with them.