You can adjust injector duty instead of tinkering with the tricky MAF, its easier IMHO, and better for adjusting timing. According to junkie your being a "pirate" instead of a "liar".

 

i don't know if it's worth the extra $700

 

So emanage and the adapter it is then? I like not cutting the stock wires.

 

Doesn't the emanage cost $300ish, and the harness cost another $150ish? May as well get the CZ imo.

 

This was your list of purchases:

CZ Stage 1.1 - 550$
USB Kit and Software - 75$
Serial ->USB Connector - 30$
USB Extension Cord - 20$

So that is 675$ Then since I want the stage 2, it would bump up 200 bucks? I think that's how much it is. So we're looking at 875 bucks for the total package.

The emanage is 537.95 including the adapter. But would we then need to purchase all of the other things? If that's the case than we're basically looking at 200 bucks extra for the cz stage 2 when it does the same stuff? Correct me if I'm wrong... Also can't the maps be copied interchangeably? So if we see one person's cz map we can replicate it on the emanage.

 

Yes but you would have to find someone with a very similar car, and since you have a different port your tune is going to be different.
Even if you got a map from someone that lived next door with the same port done by the same guy and you VIN#'s were 1digit apart, you would still need to custom tune ur map.

Don't forget the CanScan unit, or do you already have that, i can't recall after the first 47 pages.

BTW USB keys in staples cost about $20 bucks and they usually come with an extension.

 

First off, I paid $290 for my brand new CZ 1.1. Brian sold his for $350 including programming cable. The last CZ I had, I bought brand new for $300. There are many used units up for sale, some have never been installed before. Half of the time, you'll get the usb cable and software included.

There is no reason to get the CZ stage 2. It used to be that stage 1 was a plug and play solution, no tweaking could be done. Stage 2 let you tweak the maps. Stage 1.1 now lets you tweak, so why are you talking about stage 2 costing $200 more? A straight pipe has nothing to do with the e-manage.

My point is, a CZ can be bought for less than the base price of a e-manage, and it comes with all the cables ready to go. That's all I'm saying. It doesn't matter to me which route you take, but it seems you're intent on the e-manage - so be it.

 

If you read my tyrannical CZ page, it specifically lists all the items needed to tune your car. A e-manage unit would need the same things. So emanage runs $300ish, the ecu cables run another $200, then you still need the cable and software, thats another $120.

As I said before, CZ is emanage, so there is little difference besides one is plug and play.

 

I agree with Jason that if the CZ can be had for less that it may be the better choice. Otherwise the emanage is the same thing on the inside. Go with whichever you can get the better deal on.

 

Where can I pick up the canscan? I saw the emanage used with a gb advanced, was that just a joke?

 

since i'm installing it for free, i like the plug n play idea

snoochie, time for the 1 week checkup... i do that for any engine i build. just a drive and quick look under the hood to make sure everything's still where it should be.

 

snochie, you're asking a lot of questions already covered in http://tyrannical.org/page-15

 

I looked around, and this thread seems to be the closest to my subject, because of the teardown of the motor-

Maybe GuitarJunkie and RotaryGod can comment on the possibility of putting new rotor housings in, but from some previous iteration of the 13B....

If most of the gains seem to come from opening up the exhaust port, why not go back to peri-ports, and tubular headers?

New (old stock) housings should bolt right in, making no change to the intake ports, the only difference I see is the slightly modded oil injection locations. Then there are already studs to hang some tube headers on - I don't think there is any way the computer could even detect the change.

If you would go to all the trouble of a complete disassembly just to carve smoother curves in the sides, why not try new RX-7 housings/header? They look, to me (in my present drunken state), to be just what you need, exhaust wise. Keep all the benefits of the inlet side of the Renesis, with the free-er flowing exhaust end of the 7.

Am I missing some details? Bolt pattern or some such? Feel free to put me straight!

S

 

The Renesis housings are not compatible with the '86-up 13B housings. The coolant o-rings were moved from the side housings on those engines to the rotor housings on the Renesis. They were done this way on the pre-'86 engines. If you wanted to try this, it would have to be with GSL-SE 1st gen RX-7 housings.

You would not want both peripheral and side exhaust ports though. Without getting all technical and long winded, lets just say that you can have too much. You'd have to get really creative in filling in the Renesis exhaust ports. Also why would you want to do this. Remember that the last nonturbo rotary only generated 160 fwhp. You've got alot of improvements to make just to break even. There were many 13B nonturbo engines that hit the Renesis power numbers but none of them did it with the emissions abilities that the Renesis has. You may look at it from the standpoint that the 13B's had alot of potential but they needed this just to attain the stock Renesis power levels. It makes so much more sense to just use the higher power engine and try to improve it.

The whole reason why the Renesis makes so much more power is due to it's port layout. If you take this away from it and make it more 13B like, you've lost the advantage. If you want to build a peripheral port race engine that is one thing, but if you want a street engine, leave it alone or port what you've got. Don't make it any harder than necessary.

 

Fred, how did you manage to stop yourself? you must be tired or sick:D

 

but just to answer the question..

you *could* use the renesis irons in an old school motor. the bolt pattern for the front cover is the same with the exception that the renesis front plate has one more bolt hole on the upper half-which could be omitted without any significant problems. also, i think the water pump bolts may or may not line up quite right...

i slapped the gasket on the front iron of an fc motor. lemme go snap a pic and show you.

 

here we have the renesis front cover gasket on top of an fc front iron. most of the bolt holes and dowels line up except the extra bolt hole in the renesis, and one of the water pump bolts.

i was toying with the idea of using the renesis gaskets for future rebuilds on s4 engines. for those of you who don't know, the s4's had a flaw in them where they could/would blow out the front cover o-ring and cause low oil pressure. mazdatrix has a good writeup on this.

what i do with my s4 rebuilds is omit the o-ring totally and use a finishing washer--same kind as you'd find on old furniture. i just bore out the center a little bigger so it's not a restriction, then i've made a perfect crush washer. i haven't had one fail yet.

 

oh yea...there was a point. my bad.

if you use the renesis plates, you'll either have to :
1) use the renesis front cover and make it fuel injected
or
2) get creative with the water pump mounting. an electric water pump may be a worthwhile option.

i didn't mention before...just assumed everyone would get it, but like rg said, you'll have to fill the side exhaust ports one way or another.

so exactly what would be the gain of using the renesis irons as opposed to just porting the stock irons? i dunno. if anyone wants to finance the pj, i'll frankenstein something like that together for you and you can tell me what it does.

 

i was just looking at the charts again... i miscalculated the % gain.

it's really 8.7% eh, call it 9%...not 8% like i thought before.

it's 1 more :D

 

this may be old, but i almost died when i saw it today. :D

 

doen't look similar at all to me. this does tho.

 

How long do you think it'll take to look over everything. I guess that kinda depends an if everything is okay but anyways. I work 2marow at 4pm so I could be up there at like 12 or something. Just lemme know.

 

Oh yeah and where can we buy the flanges (?) to get the straight pipe up done Dave?

 

flanges should be available at most muffler shops.

and it shouldn't take longer than 10 minutes for the checkup. it's just a quickie visual anyway. if you want, i may be going down there this weekend and we can take care of it then so you save on gas.

 

Snoochie: Think about just replacing the cat or burning through the OEM one first. Living with a non cat car is stinky ****.
Vince