Trex87

Trying to find a source of my engine whine, power loss and sketchy idle.. my 8 surges after 5k where if I'm correct, the ssv closes. That would indicate it's the problem, but does it affect idle somehow?

wcs

iTrader: (2)

SSV opens around 4k - 5k ish ... the SSV opens based on a few variables like engine load and rpm IIRC

But it is OPENING not CLOSING past 5k rpm .. assuming by past you mean above 5k rpm

wcs

iTrader: (2)

If the SSV was stuck OPEN at idle .. that would likely have an effect.

Trex87

Gotcha, and yes I meant above. I took a peek from the top of the upper intake and saw my ssv carbed up pretty bad but it moves freely, I guess it could be stuck when warm. So what valve is at work from 1k to when ssv opens up?

04Green

iTrader: (1)

Suck open should generate a CEL.

It can stick a little open and not trip the light. you can reach in there an flip the lever to see if opens and closes. I suggest doing it on a cold, non-running engine.

Trex87

I did do that and it moves but I can feel loss of power in that range so maybe stuck when warm?

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Trex87

That's a very helpful pic, I appreciate it

Trex87

At idle I'm getting 4.6/4.7, it's a new denso maf that I've gotten about a month ago.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

Seems low. I think the 5.4 to 5.6 range is about right. Any chance you installed a catch can and a breather? Are all of the hoses hooked up to the rubber flex pipe? Vacuum leak is first. You likely have one (Charles is almost always right). This will build rich as hell trims that will get used when the car goes open loop. With low vacuum, pedal to the floor, there is very little leak, and you are now rich as hell. If you have gps, check for the short and long term trims at idle. I would expect them to be positive 15 or so, maybe higher.

The one you can see from the top is the APV. SSV is lower, and has a sensor wire. You can see it from the front of the motor only, behind the thermostat.

Trex87

Yeah everything seems hooked up properly, short fuel trim was around positive 7 when I checked, it usually is about positive 4 and long term was around 1. No catch can or breather. tomorrow I am going to clean ssv, install a new thermostat and change coolant. Should I go ahead and put in a new engine coolant sensor on the way? I'm going to check the vacuum again as well. My fuel pump is new and I gutted the cat

04Green

iTrader: (1)

I still think Vacuum. That trim is not as high as I would have expected, but is high. And your MAF is low. High Trim, Low MAF = leak, likely in a vacuum section of the system. That is Jet Air (Charles). It is a bitch to trace, but I would check out the entire line. Will be easier if you do it while you have the SSV out. Should be more visible.

Did this problem exist before you swapped the MAF?

Trex87

Yes it was there before maf swap. It didn't change anything at all. OK I will check the entire line with ssv out, and report back. I might replace the lines if I do not find the leak

Trex87

Yes i hear the engine whine with power loss as opposed to a full healthy sound and hard pulls. Occasional dip at idle from around 850 to 700. I'm gonna take a hard look at the lines today and the jet air. Glad you guys mentioned the normal maf reading I always thought 4.6 is normal whew

04Green

iTrader: (1)

And, possibly, when the engine trims around this leak, and goes Open Loop, you are getting way too much fuel since the factory map is just shy of pig rich. Now you end up pig + 7% or more. But, idle first.

Trex87

Guys can you point me to that jet fuel circuit? I'm gonna post a pick of my current situation. The ssv is almost black

04Green

iTrader: (1)

In the picture above, Fuel injector is yellow, to the right of it is a grey connector, to the right of that is a wire bundle, and the the right of that is a rubber hose. That hose likely runs all the way up to the intake, and down to the Jet air inlets. Check that it goes to the intake. It will split into 2 lines somewhere below that point.

I cannot tell from the picture but if that is rusty pipe that connected right there, the pipe may be what splits, and it could be leaking at the rusty interface, that area looks pretty nasty. And it does not take much for a vacuum leak.

Trex87

OK great, I cleaned the ssv replaced the thermostat, tested it and the gasket is leaking. I will get one tomorrow and check the things you mentioned above as well. Yeah that pipe looks pretty horrid

Trex87

OK guys I checked the hose by the injector and it seemed to be alright, I'll check the hose in the wheel well tomorrow and update what I found. I fixed my thermostat gasket leak it was a pita. So there's not much change after ssv clean and I couldn't find a vac leak. I'll check again tomorrow along with the wheel well hose. I think I'll get a smoke test or replace all lines since they're old anyways. The maf is about 5.7 art about 2k plus and still 4.6 at idle

04Green

iTrader: (1)

OK,

I cannot check right now, but 5.7 gps at 2,000 RPM seems low. What are the fuel trims at 2,000 RPM? My high idle, 850, is over 5.7.

You sir have either a vacuum leak OR a messed up MAF.

Since you changed the MAF and it did not make much of a difference, I think vacuum leak, assuming the engine is throwing no other codes. If codes, I would suspect the EVAP system.

There is a connector, in your picture, to the right of the oil fill. Disconnect that one. I think it is the EVAP valve. It may make a difference.

Also, on the oil filter, there is an open line for a breather. Did you pull that to do the SSV work? If not, the other end of that line is a source of unmetered air, which acts like a vacuum leak.

Trex87

Yes I pulled the oil filler tube to clean ssv. Engine sounds a bit fuller but there's still power loss. I can't find any leaks but I'm listening to you guys and will just replace the vac lines as well as the tube in the wheel well for the hell of it like Charles said. Today maf went down to 4.0 at one point. Cold start is 5.7. Afr 14.1. so you're saying that pulling the purge solenoid valve plug out will make a difference? Like a sign of the leak?

04Green

iTrader: (1)

Pulling the connector will take that out of the equation. Really, it should self test. But, a small leak might not trip it. If you are showing 4 gps, and the engine is idling around 800, and you believe the MAF, you have a vacuum leak. OR, at a minimum, un-metered air getting into the engine.