I did the exact same thing a year ago.... I still haven't found the "original" new plugs!

 

Well found the plugs I lost and changed the coils and plugs in hopes that it might fix my hard starting when hot. It didn't. It's never NOT started, it always starts on the first key turn, bit sometimes it can take a couple seconds and sound like it's not gonna start.

However, it does idle alot smoother now

 

So my car started having hard starts a few days ago. Asked around, called my loca dealer and decided to start with plugs and wires. Got them switched out (they obviously needed it, they were nasty - 33k miles) but it doesn't seam to have fixed the hard starts.

Whats next? Coils?

 

^ Check to see that you have the faster-spinning starter (mid-2005 build and on upgrade).

Then yes, coils and 'plug cables. Also have your battery's capacity checked.

And be sure your alternator is putting out ~14V.

IOW check your electrical power system end-to-end before getting a compression check (they'll demand same anyway, so may as well save the money and do these things yourself).

 

I did my spark plug change with the car on ramps. Never took a wheel off. It didn't seem that hard to me. I just had to fish a set of extensions through the wheel well cover.

 

I didn't take the wheel off either. It wasn't too hard.

What should I be looking for on the starter? Is there actually a build date on it?

The mechanics that listened to it start don't think it sounded like the starter. And they checked the battery and said it's fine. They said that it was cranking fine, it's just not firing right, or getting the right amount of fuel.

 

Sorry if i am asking a stupid question but do you just pull on the plug wires to remove them or do yo need to twist or something? I am asking for both sides (plug side and coil side)

 

Thanks for apologizing and not opening a new thread...

Just pull on it, sometimes the seal is a bit tight.

 

Thanks Shady, I knew better not to start a new thread. I just wanted to make sure and not break anything.

 

Don't forget to use copper anti-seize when installing new plugs or they can be hard to remove next time. I'm pretty sure this was already mentioned in this thread but just a reminder

 

im about to buy a spark plug socket. should i get one with the swivel built-in or get a separate u-joint?

 

^ get a separate knuckle or universal joint. You need the flexibility a bit further away from the 'plug.

Besides, it will be useful for other projects.

 

Thanks for the great DIY, changed my plugs and wires tonight.. took about an hour and a half (including a trip to auto zone for a plug socket). My '06 had 47K on it when I bought it (50K now) and the original owner had never changed the plugs so they were pretty nasty. It definitely idles better now, but it's still not perfect.. it sortof makes a thump sound (most notably form the exhaust) every few seconds when it's idling around 700 or 800 RPMs.
Payday is Friday so new coils are next


BTW pneumatic ratchet and impact wrench for loosening plugs and lugs make life much easier

 

I don't think I'd be using pneumatic tools for the spark plugs. At less than 15 ft lb they shouldn't be that difficult to remove, and if they are you should proceed gently. Aluminum threads and all....

 

^ yep, hand torque only!!!

 

I only tightened them by hand, the two on the back rotor came out no problem but the ones on the front rotor were determined to stay in there lol they were pretty difficult to get out

 

^ Well, I'm sure you used anti-seize paste this time, so no such issues in the future.

 

I will change my ignition wires this weekend. I bought the Racing Beat ones. They came with small white clips to identify each wire. They have the combination of letter/number T1, T2, L1, L2. I know the L and T are for leading and trailing. But not sure which housing is #1 and #2.

Tks

 

Coil packs from left to right

LF,TF,LR,TR

Leading front

Trailing front

Leading rear

Trailing rear

Run your wires per the above layout. Search for any other help.

 

Thanks. I also found a picture with the layout. I want to know if the housings usually are reffered as #1 and #2? Which one...the front one is #1? Or the numbers in the clips included are just a refference for me to help not confused the wires in one housing or the other? Tks again.

 

As has been echoed by tons of people, the DIY on this was more than helpful. Pulling the drivers tire and the flappy thing gave immediate access to all 4 plugs. I used a universal 3/8" swivel on my spark plug socket and it went like a breeze. Placed them in the sockets by hand so as to not cross thread first!

Now to my issue. When I pulled the tire off and looked I was staring at the Trailing plug (back rotor, top plug) with NO wire attached! (see picture). It had been idling a little rough, but nothing too harsh. The car just turned 99,001 miles, and these are the original plugs. How can this car with only 4 plugs run so good with only 3 attached???

 

^ doubtful it actually ran as well with three 'plugs, but then if you rarely rev the engine it's typically running more-so on the leading 'plugs (and also more-so the primary injectors).

Remember that the trailing 'plugs are there due to the rotationally long combustion chamber of the rotors and therefore the 'speed of heat' inadequacy of just the leading 'plugs.

 

Huey,
After two days of driving now, I guess the difference is a bit of peppyness at higher RPM's. It didn't seem to help the slightly rough idle I'm beginning to experience though. I'm kind of surprised it didn't throw any codes

 

Thanks to all for the info. Changed my wires. Really easy, especially with the ignition diagram to my side as a safety blanket. If you do it one by one, it's almost impossible to installed them incorrectly. The housings also have the T & L identification.

Less than 30 minutes...

 

I found these off ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IGNIT...Q5fAccessories
Question is, are these good? How i know which color coil is for the leading or trailing.?