olddragger

iTrader: (3)

no the display has one 10 amp fuse in the interior fuse box. it is direct to the dash only. It was a strange thing--the fuse wasnt normaly blown--it had a crack in it below the inverted u shape, I could only see it with a magnifying glass. I found it when the dash went out months ago. I was just replacing all. No problems since with the dash.
i wish i knew the starting sequence of checks..

ASH8

Hey Denny!

The US with AKE uses a slightly different system, with AKE you guys have get that expensive Door Lock and Timer Control Unit (module box) FF21-67-83Y or YA....it may not be related to door lights...will check.

Other countries don't have this...
So Yes, IF your door is open the Interior/Door lights stay ON...continously, and fade off after doors are closed....that is how it works on mine (but we don't have AKE or those extra modules I posted back earlier.)..

As I said my door lights etc still have a timer fade, after door close, AFAIK it is controlled by PCM?, Cant find any other modules which might do it...

US 09's without AKE don't have that Timer Control Module, but still should have the Interior Light and Door Light fade.

But yeah, it could be your Dash Meter Cluster as Hoss and Paimon suggested..again not cheap...for memory in the $800 area.

Let me see if I can dig out some info....

ASH8

Denny..

Have spent the past hour or so chewing through a few things I have available on-line...

I cant recall If you have looked at this, your S2 was under (some) water?.

Have you removed your drivers seat and looked under or IN it as there are two Seat Weight Sensors and one Seat Weight Sensor Control Module which appears to be located in or under the drivers seat and it's associated wiring...this connects to your Air Bag SAS Control Module under dash which then goes to LED Console Display Screen and main Speedo Display.

Now this is also connected to 'Ignition Relay' for Power, I am wondering IF any of these are inoperable or corroded plugs or water entry whether they could prevent Start.

Remember when you last get out of your car this is the second to last thing you did, that is get your *** off the seat weight sensors?....look it probably has no overriding feature to ignition start, but worth a look.

Just trying to eliminate the one day CAR was OK and the next it won't go.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the thoughts. The seats are in great shape. When I first got the car the sas system was causing a problem with bad connections etc. Thats why I removed the entire interior and fixed it all. The seat weight sensors are actually magnetic! They seem to be working fine since no airbag light/seat belt tensioner lights and the airbag off sign for the passenger seat works ok? The seat belt light works in the dash also.
Really good to know that the door lights--with door open--is not on a timer. My 04 model does have a timer--even with door open. The lights fade normally with the door closed.

The last thing I did was park the car in the driveway after about a 30 mile trip. Event free. I got up the next morning and it was just like it is now.
I have to put this on hold for a little. My Mother has gotten sick and I am currently in job hell.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Sorry to hear that bud.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Question .... what happens when you do the following:

1. Turn the car to the "ON" position,
2. Turn the lights from 'OFF' to 'P-Lights / Acc' and back to OFF 8 times really fast.

It will start to do a small CANBUS diagnostic and will display the outputs on the MID. Let us know if you see any errors.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

I will have time to do this tomorrow. Thanks!

hoss -05

iTrader: (4)

Good luck!

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

well.............................................. .................................
maybe a little progress
I found that my partner in checking the outside lights --didnt know what the parking lights were.
They were not working. Blinkers, brakes, headlights and 4 way flasher were working but the parking wasnt.
After investigating I found a bad relay that feeds the taillights. replaced it and now parking lights work fine. Fog lights work fine--all outside lights now work fine.
Its interesting that after all this --all of a sudden the security key light in the dash--now goes out normally??
Car still not cranking, but i sure hear a relay that sounds stronger than before.
I got tired and it got dark ( at 6pm now) and the battery had fell to 11.6 volts ( HIDs drain it pretty quick). So tomorrow--i will have the battery back to full charge, I will install and check to see if the obdII port is working, or the security light could have been affected by low voltage?

I did the test that was mentioned---nothing happened. Thanks for the effort PS
I found another test however ---hold the trip odometer down and turn the ignition on, hold the trip reset down until a "test" display is shown in the trip mileage part of the instrument cluster. Once it shows , quickly release the reset ****. It will then start a series of tests controlled by that same ****. It checks dash functions---gas gauge, temp gauge, low gas level, buzzer, speedometer, tach, and you will see the various gauge hands sweep and then go back to its original position pausing halfway before getting back to the starting point. It has a number assigned to the test. It tested some things in which I didnt see anything happen. But "on" was displayed. Some where displayed "off" Anyone have these codes?
X fingers.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Hrmm, i don't remember if it was to turn to ACC or turn to ON ... you might have to go from OFF -> ACC and then do the sequence ... it must be done quickly as soon as you turn the key. I would check on my car but I am not home at the moment. Granted that this test is mainly for the AC/HEat/Radio (pretty much everything in the center console) but it would be good just to make sure there are no weird errors. If you dont mind the 19 bucks, you might want to get your hands over to the mazda docs online to see more about that test. Sorry the last time i did it was last year when i was trying to figure out setting the clock with an aftermarket radio.

http://www.mazdaserviceinfo.com/EServiceInfo.aspx

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

center console check---i remember hearing about that test somewhere----hmmmm.
Thanks for checking in.

ASH8

PID/DATA MONITOR TABLE [INSTRUMENT CLUSTER]


Monitor item
Input-output signal/part name
Unit/State
Terminal

CCNT_HE
Number of continuous DTCs
—
—

ECT_GAUGE
Water temperature gauge
°C
1J, 1L

ODO COUNT
Odometer
m

SPDOMETER
Speedometer
KPH

TACH
Tachometer
RPM

IC_FFD1_MLG
Travel distance (Freeze frame data 1)
m

IC_FFD2_MLG
Travel distance (Freeze frame data 2)
m

EPS_MSG
EPS control module—CAN transmission condition
Not_Present / Present

ABS_MSG
ABS HU/CM or DSC HU/CM—CAN transmission condition
Not_Present / Present

PCM_MSG
PCM—CAN transmission condition
Not_Present / Present

TCM_MSG*1
TCM—CAN transmission condition
Not_Present / Present

TPM_MSG*2
TPMS control module (Instrument cluster)—CAN transmission condition
Not_Present / Present

RKE_MSG*3
Keyless control module—CAN transmission condition
Not_Present / Present



*1
AT
*2
With TPMS
*3
With advanced keyless and start system

ASH8

Check Code Table



Check code
Check item
Related items

01
Buckle switch (Driver side)
Buckle switch (Driver side)

04
Door switch
Lights-on reminder warning alarm

Key reminder warning alarm

Ignition key illumination system

08
TNS relay
Lights-on reminder warning alarm

12
Speedometer (LCD)
Speedometer

13
Tachometer
Tachometer

14
Buzzer
Buzzer

16
Fuel-level warning light
Fuel-level warning light

18
Ignition key illumination
Ignition key illumination system

22
Fuel gauge sender unit
Fuel gauge

23
Fuel gauge
Fuel gauge

25
Water temperature gauge
Water temperature gauge

26
Odometer/tripmeter (LCD)

Warning and indicator light
Odometer/tripmeter (LCD)

Warning and indicator light

31
Key reminder switch
Key reminder warning alarm

55
Dimmer cancel switch
Dimmer cancel switch

58
Buckle switch (Passenger side)
Buckle switch (Passenger side)



NOTE:

Check codes which are not listed may be indicated, but they cannot be inspected.

The check codes are displayed in numerical order. (While performing the inspection, if you want to inspect a check code with a number smaller than the code number you are currently inspecting, terminate the check mode then repeat the inspection from the beginning.)

If a speed signal is input to the instrument cluster (the wheels are rotated) while a code other than check code 50 or 51 is displayed, the input/output check mode will be cancelled.

The check codes can be fast-forwarded by pushing and holding the odometer/tripmeter switch for 1 s or more.

ASH8

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

WOW---again mate-----YOU ARE THE MAN!

Those do help--a lot.
Since the trip reset button test is now all good, i will check the console tonight.
Wouldnt it be interesting to know that if the parking lights go out then the obd port will not work?

hoss -05

iTrader: (4)

Any lucking connecting with a code reader after the relay was replaced?

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

nope
"White Flag".
Mother had surgery and is in hospital. I have been posting from work lately.
No real time on my hands to spare at present--sorry.

hoss -05

iTrader: (4)

anyone know what this plugs into?



The obd port is fairly messed up from when mazda "replaced it" I have a very nice solider in one to install on the way.

I really think the no OBD connection is what is causing the no start issue.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

is that behind the glove box? Could just be a harness to the keyless pcm.

Even if the OBD2 port was damaged I wouldn't think it would cause any issues, the port is a parallel circuit

hoss -05

iTrader: (4)

It may be behind the glove box but I found it behind the radio and none of the stuff I know of behind the glove box has that foam covering. Where is the key-less PCM? I have a FSM on the way but am currently trying to make due with just the Factory wiring manual.

The damaged obd port is not causing the problem that is for sure. It just makes it hard to connect an obd reader.

Its funny Paimon i just saw a review on a OBD port you did on amazon.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Oh behind the radio, there are a few connectors there, 2 that go to the AC controls, and 2 that go to the radio. There should be a larger radio harness, and then a small one that looks like that which is running to the AUX input in the center console. That would connect to the smaller port on the back of the OEM radio.

lol oh yea? I write so many reviews on that site I dont even remember which one that is.

edit: now that i look at the connector, that is not the radio connector, looks more like one of the HVAC connectors.

edit again: could also be to the hazard lights

hoss -05

iTrader: (4)

that is for sure the hazard lights! thanks! I was told if the ETV fuse was out it would show those same issues.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

u get my pm?

hoss -05

iTrader: (4)

I did thank you! Ill figure this bad boy out soon!

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

no prob, let me know if i can be of some assistance. Surely no expert, but I can always run to the car and take comparison shots for you or something.