9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

More than likely you just need a tune up. Don't get ahead of yourself.

R3Dream

I bought a gallon of FL22 from dealership and have been topping it off when I check my oil

R3Dream

I was hoping that was the case, brought it to the dealership for a oil change, and ended up having them look into the coolant.
Turned out that hose clamps were not installed correctly (seated in grooves) and thus coolant was leaking.
Few days later was getting on freeway and it popped, and engine blogged under any throttle and would not idle smoothly.
Dealership is now say its the PCM, which is gonna be a G to fix!

I'm thinking its more likely the engine or incorrect install, given the constant bogging at 7k and coolant clamps not being installed correctly among other items.

Jastreb

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to hear about your experience. Sounds to me like they are feeding you a line of BS about the PCM. Are they covering it under warranty?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

What was the cause of failure of the original engine? If that hasn't been eliminated, your new engine would go through the same process. Hint: it's not the PCM.

R3Dream

I'll find out Monday, if not just gonna do install myself, as I need a second AKE as well.
Still doesn't explain the smoke and burning something after it happened, which make me think its something more.

R3Dream

The Orginal dealership didn't have much details on the old engine, just that compression was low and mazda authorized a new engine. Probably since the car was not selling and at 60k they could cover it under the power-train warranty.

What would be some of the parts that were reinstalled, that could be the cause of the problem?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Well just knowing that it was a compression failure and not a coolant seal is a good start. Some things that dealerships don't necessarily replace are spark plugs, wires and coils, which are a major source of engine failures in series 1s. S2s are perhaps better in that department. There is a test procedure that's less expensive than a new PCM

Also catalytic converter blockage could be in play. The dealer would not have necessarily tested for that (by looking inside it) and it would cause bogging at high rpm as you describe.

If you can get anything from the old dealers records about if/when these parts were changed or inspected and confirmed good, you could have more ammo for your new dealer. Don't go for the PCM thing without some clear evidence, PCM failures are suuuper rare and wouldn't match your symptoms anyway.

R3Dream

I would agree.
Dealership had no prior owner information, so I have no idea how old any of the parts are or what was installed, still got to figure out what ignition wires are installed, and if there's an anything else aftermarket on it.
Catalytic converter blockage would make more sense, with the bogging, but it was consistently at 7k...
If the CC got plugged, would it have blown a seal in the engine?
Also the dealership also said a starter bolt and intake bolts were missing, so I'm really questioning this engine install.
Is there any benefit to getting a new PCM, if I can get it covered under emission's warranty?
I'll looking into getting ignition tested, maybe compression too, and cat looked at first, before moving on to pcm and fuel pump (filter).

Loki

iTrader: (1)

No benefit to a new PCM. It's a digital computer, the guts don't matter, the software does all the work, and the software is all the same.

A plugged cat is a very real cause of engine meltdowns. Try blowing through a blocked straw But cats don't clog themselves, something causes that over a long term.

The current dealer should be able to diagnose the ignition and cat without buying any expensive new parts. There is a shop manual article for those. We'll know where we stand at that point.

If the 7k is a very precise and repeatable failure point, there is another possible cause. There is a valve that opens at... someone can correct me, 6900? If this valve fails to open, you'll certain get a stumble. The valve is solenoid actuated and the solenoids are known to fail, but usually the ECU picks that up and throws a code. Something else to investigate that's cheaper than the PCM proposal. Question: how much do you trust this new dealer knows rotaries?

R3Dream

I'm not sure how much the service person knows rotaries, but I would give mechanic credit so far, seeing they spotted missing bolts and fixed the coolant leak/hose clamps. Waiting to hear back regarding getting ignition and cat looked at.

Shumster

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to hear.

Before I got my new engine on my R3 they were feeding me the PCM line too...

G_ man

iTrader: (2)

^ How's your car been doing lately

R3Dream

Yeah, They said they tested the ignition and insist its the PCM.
Still waiting to hear if its covered by Emissions warranty, does any one have details on this?
What did you have do to get the new engine?
I'm considering asking for a compression test, worst case- I get a baseline on the engines health. Best case+ I get a new engine

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget the cat.

Shumster

iTrader: (2)

What I did, I demanded a compression test immediately.

R3Dream

Followed your advise and requested a compression test, they said it engine's good. I'll check the numbers before I leave with the car.
After having them dance around whether the PCM was covered by EPA Emission Warranty, they agreed it was.
Shipping a new PCM down from Canada apparently
Confirmed that you do need two Advance Keyless Entry Cards to program a new PCM, so told them to go ahead and order a second.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Does that mean ignition and the cat were confirmed good?

R3Dream

I was told that the ignition was tested and good, no specifics on cat.
I'm planning on upgrading both components in the near future anyways, and will double check the cat myself to make sure its replaced before warranty expires, if needed.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

I would push for specifics on the cat, to me that's a likely cause of your problems. Certainly more likely than the PCM.

darkrequiem

there isn't a break-in procedure you need per se; just drive the car carefully and make sure you rev the engine to 9000 more frequently once past 1k. As far as the coolant goes, check the levels - if they're full, you can replace the sensor at your leisure.

What premix did you use exactly again?

No one else will tell you this but, the RX-8 tends have the coolant sensor go out on long trips.

R3Dream

Finally got new PCM installed, and apparently the spark plugs were cracked as well.
Installed new set of plugs and wires and its running, but the cat is broken (holes in the comb) from misfires, probably from the broken plugs....
Waiting to hear back on if the cat is warrantied and when it will be orders/installed.

R3Dream

First 1k I was using Lucas Premix (as it was the only available premix while on the road).
After that I started using Pettit Racing Protek-K Premix

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you're out of the woods at least. Cat definitely died due to failing ignition.
I assume the shop will be paying for the completely unnecessary new ECU and botched ignition inspection the first time around? Get the compression tested too, that brand new engine could have been damaged by running on bad ignition and failed cat.

This sounds like a botch job all around, these problems should have been diagnosed and solved when the engine was replaced. In fact the engine may not even have needed replacement.
I wouldn't pay a cent out of pocket for this whole affair, push them. Someone was either not qualified, lazy or cheap.