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R3 gearbox 1/2/3 notchy and 6th baulks

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Old 01-15-2012, 05:36 PM
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You're probably not shifting hard enough. The synchronizers are very stiff and won't work properly if you shift them with a light touch. Also, if the car is new, don't expect the gearbox to work smoothly until you've put 10,000 miles on it. Those parts need a chance to wear in.

The RX-8 synchronizers have triple cones and use a carbon-composite friction material, instead of the normal single-cone brass synchronizers. Don't expect them to work the same as other cars. They are designed to shift smoothly when the car is being driven at maximum output, which means they will require firmer treatment even when driving in city traffic. I started getting along with my gearbox much better once I stopped trying to be nice to it.

Last edited by fyrstormer; 01-15-2012 at 05:40 PM.
Old 01-15-2012, 06:06 PM
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fyrstormer, thanks.
As I understand it, 1-4 have the triple cones but not 5 & 6.
I'll try the being firm tomorrow.
When I stop trying to be nice to my gearbox 6th doesn't like it.
As well as the 4th-into-6th baulking, if I'm firmer & quicker from 5th into 6th I get a lot of crunching.

Last edited by Ian_D; 01-15-2012 at 06:19 PM. Reason: Added line in trying tomorrow
Old 01-15-2012, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ASH8
Here is something you might find interesting from a Guy who says he works at Honda and he is talking about S2000 transmission issues..a very similar tranny.

...


The transmission mainshaft and the clutch disk together weigh 19.75 lbs. (not including the pressure plate and flywheel that are connected to the engine) When you shift from 1st to 2nd at 9000 RPM the engine speed drops to 5900. That means that the little brass synchronizer rings have to push on the 2nd gear to slow the mainshaft from 9000RPM to 5900 RPM. It not only has to slow down the mainshaft it has to do it in the time that it takes you to shift. So if you have a tendency to shift fast you may be making the sleeve blow past the synchro rings before it has a chance to do it's job and it will smash into the 2nd gear.
I find it odd that the guy writing this post claims to be a technician but he doesn't know how synchronizers actually work. There are spline teeth on the outer edges of the synchronizer cone(s) that physically block the lockring from touching the side of the gear being selected, until the synchronizer has done its job and the torque caused by synchronizing the input shaft has dissipated. There is no way to force the lockring into position before synchronization is complete -- UNLESS the spline teeth are broken off the synchronizer cone(s), or the cone(s) are damaged such that they can't produce enough friction when they touch the side of the gear being selected. (however, lightly shifting a performance-tuned gearbox will also produce this effect even if nothing is damaged.) So yes, damage is a very valid explanation for synchronizer malfunction, but the damage MUST come first.
Originally Posted by ASH8
Added 5-2-03:
Skipping gears:
I have seen many 6th gear sleeves that have been damaged.

The typical story is this: Stop light, 1st gear, engage the clutch, rev to 9,000 RPM, shift quickly to 2nd, rev to 9,000 RPM, same into 3rd, look down and find the car going 80 MPH on a city street and the engine noise is screaming, recognize that any cop is going to write a ticket. Shift to 6th quickly to lower engine noise.
I LOLed. Just open the clutch and the engine will calm down. No need to shift immediately, especially when you're driving double the speed limit.
Originally Posted by ASH8
Dragging the mainshaft speed down from 9,000 RPM to 4,000 when going from 3rd to 6th takes time. 6th gear has only a single synchro ring and it doesn't like it. It will grind if you are shifting hard and fast. By shifting hard the synchro ring does not have time to slow down the main-shaft and the sleeve will slip over the synchro and grind the gear. If the sleeve is ground enough in 6th then it will not slide the other way to engage 5th.

So if it is hard to get your car into 5th or 6th it may be because the sleeve is being damaged by skipping gears. Hope this makes sense.
I have shifted from 2nd to 6th in my RX-8 quite a few times (though I try to avoid it), since redline in 2nd is fast enough to match speeds with highway traffic, and yes, it does take time to shift from 2nd to 6th. I can tell by the resistance on the shifter that the spline teeth on the synchronizer cones are doing their job, though, because there's no amount of pressure I can put on the shifter to make it try to engage prematurely.

That being said, I do sometimes get grinding going into 6th gear from 4th or 5th while cruising, when the forces generated are insignificant. When this happens, the next chance I get to stop at a stoplight, I will lightly apply pressure on the 6th gear synchro while the clutch is still closed and the engine is idling, to burnish the friction material so it will grab properly the next time I use it. It works every time, and I only have to re-burnish it every couple months.

I think the "deal" with 6th gear is that it uses a high-tech friction material that's designed for heavy use, and it doesn't get that heavy use. Th 6th gear synchro never experiences the "upshifting at redline in 5th gear" condition that would keep it burnished without the driver making a point of doing it on purpose. So, the driver needs to do it on purpose.

I haven't had any problems with this method, and I doubt it will wear out the 6th synchro before the heavily-used 1st/2nd/3rd synchros wear out from normal operation.
Old 01-15-2012, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer
I find it odd that the guy writing this post claims to be a technician but he doesn't know how synchronizers actually work. There are spline teeth on the outer edges of the synchronizer cone(s) that physically block the lockring from touching the side of the gear being selected, until the synchronizer has done its job and the torque caused by synchronizing the input shaft has dissipated. There is no way to force the lockring into position before synchronization is complete -- UNLESS the spline teeth are broken off the synchronizer cone(s), or the cone(s) are damaged such that they can't produce enough friction when they touch the side of the gear being selected. (however, lightly shifting a performance-tuned gearbox will also produce this effect even if nothing is damaged.) So yes, damage is a very valid explanation for synchronizer malfunction, but the damage MUST come first.I LOLed. Just open the clutch and the engine will calm down. No need to shift immediately, especially when you're driving double the speed limit.
I have shifted from 2nd to 6th in my RX-8 quite a few times (though I try to avoid it), since redline in 2nd is fast enough to match speeds with highway traffic, and yes, it does take time to shift from 2nd to 6th. I can tell by the resistance on the shifter that the spline teeth on the synchronizer cones are doing their job, though, because there's no amount of pressure I can put on the shifter to make it try to engage prematurely.

That being said, I do sometimes get grinding going into 6th gear from 4th or 5th while cruising, when the forces generated are insignificant. When this happens, the next chance I get to stop at a stoplight, I will lightly apply pressure on the 6th gear synchro while the clutch is still closed and the engine is idling, to burnish the friction material so it will grab properly the next time I use it. It works every time, and I only have to re-burnish it every couple months.

I think the "deal" with 6th gear is that it uses a high-tech friction material that's designed for heavy use, and it doesn't get that heavy use. Th 6th gear synchro never experiences the "upshifting at redline in 5th gear" condition that would keep it burnished without the driver making a point of doing it on purpose. So, the driver needs to do it on purpose.

I haven't had any problems with this method, and I doubt it will wear out the 6th synchro before the heavily-used 1st/2nd/3rd synchros wear out from normal operation.
doesnt matter what you do, skipping is always hard on syncros cuz the amount of rpm it needs to reduce/increase.
Old 01-15-2012, 11:41 PM
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Yep, agree with Jason and fyrstormer....

I don't care what brand of Gearbox (Transmission) if you are going to crash change, fast change or whatever change at high RPM and Speed you are always tempting issues, as in "a" component prematurely wearing or failing or reduced lifespan....for what they are and what is paid they do an excellent job....they are not technically racing gearboxes....go to Holinger if you want one of those.

And YES, I have continuously said that "wearing in" is critical as is more Oil Changes..
The older these box's get the better they are, and always let them warm up or get hot.

http://www.holinger.com.au/
Old 01-16-2012, 02:24 AM
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"upshifting at redline in 5th gear"
I'd get a 5-year driving ban if I did that here, assuming that I could find a quiet enough stretch of road............
Old 01-16-2012, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by fyrstormer
Also, if the car is new, don't expect the gearbox to work smoothly until you've put 10,000 miles on it. Those parts need a chance to wear in.
Hehe - my 5th/6th synchros went at 9,000 miles - so wasn't even "run in"
Old 01-16-2012, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Ian_D
I'd get a 5-year driving ban if I did that here, assuming that I could find a quiet enough stretch of road............
Bruntingthorpe might give you a chance, if you can get "track time" there (2 miles of straight, fine condition runway) :-)

I gave up at 141MPH indicated, 139 measured on GPS - because the front end got pretty light and I didn't have the best of tyres on at the time, and fuel guage had dropped from 1/4 tank to "fumes" in about 4 laps... Must try harder next time.

Anyhow - any more news from the dealers??
Old 01-16-2012, 02:00 PM
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Sean, after all the time & hassle I'm now back where I was in November - the 6th gear problem is 'a known problem' and I've booked her in for the gearbox to be taken out and stripped.
I emailed the dealer early Thu morning (3 full working days ago) asking what they are going to do about the 1/2/3 gear issue, asking for information on the service notice (see my post of the 12th), asking why they put me through all the hassle and expense of the last 2 months (I put it more politely) and asking them what they are going to do about the money I paid for the oil change. Needless to say I've not had a response.
If I don't get an answer by Thu lunchtime I'm going to pop in.
I'm writing to Mazda, hopefully tomorrow, and to the managing director of Freestyle unless the service departments come up trumps by Thursday when I pass by lunchtime (2 1/2 working days away).
The 1/2/3 problem isn't getting better. Indeed, this morning I couldn't get her into 2nd when cold even with double declutching.
Old 01-25-2012, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by seanp
Hehe - my 5th/6th synchros went at 9,000 miles - so wasn't even "run in"
There's no accounting for defective parts, of course.
Old 01-25-2012, 02:14 PM
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My 1/2 synchronizers are quite stiff for the first few shifts when the temperature is near or below freezing. I just push harder on the shift lever and it goes into place. Sometimes I get a dull "thud" from the gearbox when I do this, as the input shaft instantly changes speed. I don't really care; if the gearbox can handle full-throttle acceleration in 1st gear, it can handle "hard-shifting" while cruising in a parking lot at 10mph.

I just look at it as: the transmission is designed to work perfectly when hot and under high stress; in any other conditions, its performance will be less than perfect, because that's how engineered systems bloody well work.

That being said, if your clutch isn't fully opening, your synchronizers will NEVER work right. See if the mechanic can put the car on a lift while the engine is running, close the clutch with the shifter in 1st gear to get the wheels spinning, and then press the clutch pedal to the floor and see if the wheels come to a stop. If they don't, or if they take a very long time to, then the clutch isn't opening fully and there is always torque being applied on the input shaft. Synchronizers won't engage until the input shaft has no torque applied to it, regardless of whether that torque comes from rotational inertia or a malfunctioning clutch.

Last edited by fyrstormer; 01-25-2012 at 02:16 PM.
Old 01-27-2012, 04:10 PM
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I had my car in at about 15K miles and they replaced the 5th/6th syncro. I would get a grinding noise when trying to shift unles the engine rpm came back to about 1000k.
Old 02-03-2012, 04:51 PM
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Booked car in 3 1/2 weeks in advance to ensure relevant technician booked to do work straightaway (can you guess what's coming next?).. .......
.....took car in Weds, 3 days ago.....
............ when I had no update I rang them up late this afternoon.......
.......................only to be told that hadn't started work yet and they'd need my R3 for another 2 weeks rather than the week that they'd agreed!

I can't believe it. After all the aggravation that they've given me and promises to reform, they still snub me and waste more of my time.

So I'm running around in a Mazda 2, a glorified shopping trolley, emblazoned with so much advertising my mates call me 'the unpaid mobile sandwich board man'.

I've now written to the Dealer Principal, one of the directors and Mazda (yet again).
Old 02-05-2012, 03:23 PM
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Ian, while I understand (sort of) your frustration, you do have transport (Mazda 2).

There "could be" a situation where parts were ordered and not all were supplied..
Or the guy who was going to work on your car is ill, or they don't have enough staff because of illness?...which can happen at the last moment.

Unfortunately it sometimes is not a perfect outcome, or one the owner 'believes' should happen.

A dealer can't just get another new transmission (IF available) and throw in your car without authorization from M UK, they have probably been told to crack it open first and then asses the situation. They then may have to order more parts or you may even get a complete new trans (but I doubt that) ??

But the reality is sometimes work is scheduled, if another priority job comes in and staff is short your trans job can be pushed back..

IN the end the reality is warranty work costs a dealer, they roughly get less than half the labour $$'s back when compared to normal service maintenance and make next to nothing out of parts.

Are you a regular customer of theirs?...have you had your car serviced there?...did you buy the car there?...and one expects priority?

YES..there is no excuse for not communicating the truth.....
Old 02-05-2012, 05:17 PM
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Ash,

There are indeed 2 sides to a story and I understand why you would think from a dealer's view. I'm a pretty reasonable guy but I do expect a reasonable standard of customer service. I'm sure that you'd be as pissed off as I am if they'd done it to you.

However, here I have been repeatedly plssed about, had an apology only to be plssed about the next time. I waited for 3 weeks to ensure the technician(s) was available, I wrote a letter to hand in when booking in and I briefed the booker-in of what had been agreed in order to avoid as many problems as I could. They have told me several times that they expect the work to take a week.

You're right about the agreed work (take out, inspect, Mazda UK approval, repair) but Mazda have been involved already (I raised the issues with them after the previous aggravation) and the dealer hasn't even started to do any work let alone find what parts they need. The 6th gear synchromesh repair is a service bulletin and Mazda has already discussed it with them after I contacted Mazda.

The dealer may get less from Mazda for both labour and parts, but that is for them to manage my expectations and they have completely failed here. They know that when they sell a car there will be warranty work and it's all part of the deal.

We have a recession where people are looking to cut costs and there is strong competition from non-franchised garages, the one I've been using for my other cars being excellent, so you'd think they'd get their act together.

As for a car, I'd much rather have them do the work agreed in the timescale agreed and not have a loan car. As it happens, it's snowed here and my loan car is stranded as its cheap tyres can't cope with snow that my RX with winter tyres breezed over earlier in the year, so I may have been better without it.

Ian
Old 02-06-2012, 02:50 AM
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The 6th gear synchromesh repair is a service bulletin and Mazda has already discussed it with them after I contacted Mazda.
I would like to see a copy of this "Service Bulletin for the S2 P66M Trans, as there is not one", I have all TSB listed here and none for the trans..

https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-technical-trouble-shooting-160/series-ii-tsbs-technical-service-bulletins-212228/

I will check again, unless something has been added in the past few weeks...All factory TSB come out of Japan and are re-titled for each region, but are just basic a MMC Japan copy.
All world markets use the same trans.
Old 02-06-2012, 03:17 AM
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Nup, sorry...no Series 2 Service Bulletins or TSB's on the 6 Speed Trans, Synchro's or Gears.
Old 02-06-2012, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ASH8
Apparently Ford is also having a massive issue with 2011-2012 Mustang "Made in China" 6 speed transmissions..

This video is nail biting...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPmY2...layer_embedded
wow,

thats an ugly mess of crap.. how did you find jmetreo? he has a new site i bet you would love it...

he was a troll here years ago...

beers
Old 02-06-2012, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ASH8
Nup, sorry...no Series 2 Service Bulletins or TSB's on the 6 Speed Trans, Synchro's or Gears.
Ash, I have a copy of service information repair guidance release r079/09 released in October 2009. It's a hard copy and I don't have a scanner at the moment so I can't show you a copy.
Old 02-06-2012, 03:09 PM
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Found a copy Ian..
Attached Files

Last edited by ASH8; 02-06-2012 at 03:54 PM.
Old 02-13-2012, 07:14 PM
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Ash,
Can you tell, from the part nos. WHAT has changed about them to "fix" this Gearbox problem?
I am sure that I read somewhere here-abouts a posting by you that it was a "profile" change, not a "material" change; yet the bulletin says "In order to prevent wear, the material of synchronizer ring for both 5th and 6th gear has been changed."
Old 02-13-2012, 09:37 PM
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Yep Sean, I was going on what I was told here then...

But I would agree with the Bulletin about a change to the material in the two new identical Synchro's for 5th and 6th gear..

The Mazda Dealer tech who told me this was/is a very switched on and experienced Tech/Mechanic, he had cracked a few early Series 2 Tranny's, and was supplied by Mazda Australia a kit of parts to use, the kit back then in late 2008 was I believe the same rings and not modded ones as they were not Part Numbered.

Just today (1 hour ago) I was down in the city and talking to my local Mazda Parts Manager about this exact issue plus new gossip and all they are replacing is what the TSB says, plus checking Gears and Sleeves for any damage, they have only done 4 boxes....None of the late 2009~ off the production line Series 2 6 speeders have had any problems, they gear change like my 2011 MX-5 which now uses the exact same parts including the beefed up parts which were once S2 exclusive.....now 95% of all the internal parts are identical to S2 and MX-5.
Old 02-13-2012, 10:39 PM
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my fifth gear started grinding before i headed off back to school, supposedly the S2 5th and 6th syncros weren't carbon coated so they wear easy that must be the material change. Thanks for finding that service bulletin i hope that will expedite the repair process.
Old 02-17-2012, 09:22 PM
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Thanks Ash :-)
Old 02-24-2012, 03:12 AM
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Any news Ian?


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