I would be afraid to use that unless someone can confirm it's okay to use on our plugs which contain fragile rare earth metals (iridium).

 

IMHO..............Don't be cheap, just buy new plugs.

 

I've done it. Car runs great, no misfires. It's silica which is very non abrasive, it doesn't increase the gap at all. As far as it taking off the coating I'm not sure.
As long as my car doesn't misfire and runs good I'll keep cleaning them.
If they start misfiring I'll replace em.
If your that **** that you demand every immeasurable ounce of performance, you should probably only drive your car when it's cold out too, to keep those intake temps down. Lol.

EDIT* Best pic I could get of an upclose shot. Realistically, even if you can stretch 5-10k out of them I think it's worth it considering the cleaner and silica is super cheap. I kept all my old plugs, so I have a spare set. I figured - even so I could use them for when I do a carbon cleaning process - so nice new plugs don't get all fouled. You can see how non-abrasive it is because not all the carbon is removed on the insulator.

 

We are referring to the same thing. And yes I have a Series 2; this is the Series 2 tech forum, last I checked.

I have to admit I'm puzzled why anyone here would think Mazda would risk their reputation by putting gauges in their cars that over-sell the engines' capabilities. They have too much legal and financial liability on the line to do that sort of thing. Stop acting like I'm suggesting it's perfectly safe to drive down the freeway in second gear just because the tach needle is a smidge below redline. We're not talking about cruising at 9000rpm, we're talking about revving up to 9000rpm momentarily and then upshifting. If you're afraid to use your car the way it's meant to be used, sell it and buy a nice safe Camry.

As for the suggestion that when the tach says "9000" the engine is actually running at 8500rpm: maybe that's the case during a full-throttle acceleration in first gear, because the tach needle is advanced a bit during hard acceleration to avoid lagging behind the real RPM, but that's not the case normally. I tested my car specifically to find out if my tach was inaccurate, and the OBD2 metrics showed the same RPM as the tach once I let the engine top-out at a constant speed for more than a second or so. If your car doesn't do this, take it to the shop and get it fixed.

 

You really think Mazda wouldn't claim abuse when you bring it into a dealership?

Examples:

My car bucks really hard when I shift into 3rd at 9,000rpm.
My trans grinds shifting at 9,000rpm.



They're gonna laugh in your face. Just because the car can do it, doesn't mean its okay.
People drift the rx8, doesn't mean its okay.
People launch well above 6k RPM, doesn't mean its okay.


You seem to be missing the point that just because a rev limiter is there its safe and perfectly okay to approach it or hit it. It's not; its there to keep tards from beating a dead horse. Do me a favor and dyno your car. You'll see there is no point revving past approximately 8k. I say approximately because sure - every car could be different with different mods. But were talking in a stock aspect here.
Your beating a dead horse revving past 8k, abusing the living **** out of your trans, and more then likely causing pre-mature wear. Look at all the people who sweared by "redline a day" and look at how many of those people had engine replacement.(Just cause you have an S2 doesn't make it bulletproof) But sure go ahead, beat the living snot out of your car. None of us care, we are just trying to give you a heads up to keep your car nice. Heed our advice and accept the fact that shifting that high is pointless, stupid, abusive and while it sounds cool - is not the ideal thing to do.

You know...Mazda does surf this website. A Mazda tech told me not to go on this site strictly because I was having warranty work done, but hey I'm out of warranty now so here I am.
So don't doubt for a second they could pull up a post from you and void your warranty. Subaru set the bar for this and many manufacturers are following them. From all the retards blowing up they're engines/transmissions thinking they're Ken Block.

Really? They have ZERO obligations for abuse, racing or neglect.

 

You are spot on my friend....

This applies to all gauges Mazda use and almost every other Auto maker displays or does not display in telling the driver and therefore their customers on vehicle conditions.

Too much driver information only adds to driver anxiety and issues which are non issues...

Just imagine the Dealer traffic/complaints, my Mazda 2 or MX-5 or RX-8, reads 3 more degrees C on Temp Gauge on hot days, or my Fuel Tank gauge is out by 250 ounces on hot days (fuel expands).

Or I think I have an engine issue as my cars Oil Pressure is reading a little low...blah..blah.

It would be a nightmare at all Dealer levels and publicity wise, especially consumer reports on vehicle brand reliability.

ALL gauges are for an 'indication' only and have been for close to 40 years I have been in the Mazda car industry.

Having said all that though, it does not mean that the correct and accurate information is not there or available from the cars OE installed sensors or sender units, as it is.

When using Mazda IDS (MMDS), the operator gets to view everything in car in great detail with 100's PID (Parameter ID's) displays and graphs for each vehicle control module..the ability to test every wired component in real time in car for any faults.....the toolbox to have..!!

But yeah, ask Nissan (Dealers) and their GTR owners what they think of too much displayed information at fingertips....

 

Reminds me when I used to have my '94 Ford Probe GT that had a real oil pressure gauge that moved according to the engine RPM and, well, oil pressure
Then, in the next model year Ford replaced it with a dummy gauge similar to what we have in the RX-8 because quite a few idiots brought their car to the dealer complaining about "fluctuating oil level"

 

Precisely...

 

the best example is the TPMS light, how many people came into the dealership because the light came on, and all it needed was some air in the tire.

 

I understand that point just fine. You seem to have difficulty with the concept of "shades of grey". (no, not the book.) The amount of wear caused by redlining depends on the duration of the redline. Sustained redline will destroy any engine in a few hours, but momentary redline during acceleration will cause no more wear than revving the engine lower for a longer period of time to reach the same target speed. The idea that so much as poking the redline for a split-second will wreak havoc upon your engine simply isn't true. However, if you need to believe it's true in order to avoid abusing your engine, then do what you have to do.

I'd love to dyno my car. You paying?

And people wonder why I don't identify my car more thoroughly.

If Mazda tries to void my warranty because I said I do something which doesn't cause any warning lights to pop up on the dashboard, and I haven't disabled any of the safety mechanisms in order to do it, they will be receiving paperwork from my lawyer. "We don't like the way you drive your car" wouldn't be a valid reason to void my warranty, even if I drove harder than the mechanics do when they test my car after servicing it. (I've been in the car a few times, they're definitely harder on the car than I am.)

Then I guess it's a good thing we're not talking about abuse, racing, or neglect.

 

I added boost and oil pressure gauges to my old VW Passat. The oil pressure gauge notified me of a catastrophic oil leak from the oil cooler a good 30 seconds before the idiot lamp on the dashboard did.

I notice my dad's 2007 Miata has a real oil pressure gauge too. I was impressed, and I'm kinda surprised the RX-8 doesn't have one.

 

Fair point, but that's really only a problem because people aren't used to reading gauges anymore. If all the carmakers started putting real gauges back in their cars, all at once, people would learn to read gauges again.

My girlfriend's car doesn't have a tachometer. That, to me, is the ultimate in reductio ad absurdum for car design. The RX-8 has a nice big one, smack in the center of the instrument panel, which says to me that Mazda wants me to know what the engine speed is at all times, and I trust them to provide me with information that is either accurate or erring slightly on the side of caution. If the big bright shiny tachometer doesn't give me useful information, that is Mazda's failure, not my own.

If I were Nissan, my response would be thus: "The GTR is a highly-tuned sports car, and the gauges are there to keep you informed about its performance at all times. The gauges are supposed to move, and it is up to the driver to learn what the readings mean. If that is too much trouble, we will gladly give you a competitive deal on a trade-in for a Maxima."

 

+1. Most gauges are for purely reference.
Prime example is the coolant temperature. I've seen the same indication of full operating temp from ~165*F to ~225*F. The needle remains at the same location.
There's a reason they called them idiot lights.

 

I hate to spoil the party .. but NC Miata's OP gauge is a fake one also.

Thread Closed...gone completely off topic, be me too!