Pulled them the other week to inspect. They seem crustier than I'd have expected.

No pic of the rear trailing but it was similar to the front trailing.



Front Leading



Front Trailing



Rear Leading

 

Seems like a lot of wear for that mileage.

 

The crud is just from burning oil, but the color is great.

 

Yeah, I boot it a lot once it's up to temp.

If the crud is from oil, that really makes me want to switch to a low-ash synthetic oil once the warranty is up.

I use nothing but Top Tier fuel, usually Shell or Exxon/Mobil. Any reason to think I should periodically use an add-in fuel system cleaner or something?

 

I would use some Techron, I change my plugs every 10k and they are way cleaner than those. I run a SOHN and premix.

 

I use Techron every 1000-1500 miles right before I change my oil in my S2.

 

So concentrated Techron actually works in our cars?

I recall ChrisFix tried concentrated Techron and used borescope cameras to see if the concentrated Techron did anything. He found almost no difference after 2 bottles. Do REs see more benefits?

 

Techron for my injectors and manifold. Not to reduce carbon in the chamber.

 

Yeah, that's a lot of soot, but the color looks great.

I can't prove it does anything, besides blacken my tailpipes, but I run a large bottle of Techron through every 3K miles.

BTW, ChrisFix's testing methods are far from scientific, nor even adequate.

 

I ran my plugs until around 32k miles and they had very few deposits.

I had put on the BHR coils at 22k miles and wanted to see power improvement a step at a time.

My engine oil was and Is Mobil 1 0w40, and I was premixing fairly strong at least 8oz per 12 gals of Mobil 2T which I don't think they make anymore.

also, my car is 6 speed auto so only revs to 7k rpm.

Your plugs don't look like wear just those tan deposits.

I also doesn't look like you premix.

Some one mentioned the Ravenol 2 stroke oil which is rated FD, and I'll try that when I run out of my Mobil 2T.

 

For comparison, I changed my plugs every June, when I was tracking my car heavily. This is how they looked in 2016, after 1 year of mixed use, including 18 track days.



Mobil 1 0W40 changed every 3,000 miles and Lucas Semi-Synthetic 2 Cycle oil premixed at 0.5 Oz per gallon on the street and 1.0 Oz per gallon on the track. Top Tier 93 octane always.

.

 

I can assure you those plugs are fine the first time i changed mine at around 70k miles (bought my r3 at 66k) they looked just like everyones in this thread no idea how long it has been since they were last changed before i took owner ship however i did notice really low power down low in the rev range, however this could've been attributed to my cat going bad or a combo of both at the time.
so once i changed them i put around 10 miles on them and inspected them out of couriosity and surely they were ashy but are functioning perfectly.
How ever i did cross thread my trailing on the rear rotor housing no its sitting at 15-20 degrees downwards. Has this happened to anybody its such a bitch to get to since the firewall forces to to go in at a slight angle. Also tapping it didn't work is there a known fix for this or am gonna have to pull the motor?

 

IamFodi,

Didn't you say you're using Castrol GTX 5w20?

Also, what brands of gasoline do you use in your 8?

 

Yup!


Always Shell V-Power if I can. Main fallback is Exxon/Mobil. Other Top Tier brands if I must, though that's rare. Absolutely nothing else.

 

Those plugs look like good firing, and I'd just put em back in.

Shell and Exxon are Top tier, and I'm more in the Chevron Texaco with Techron.

My plugs had almost non of that tan deposit at 32k miles.

I think using a PIB type FD smokeless premix, the Mobil 2T I use helps burn up that leftover combustion to keep that crap off, but you going by the book might go just as far.

 

I wish Chevron had any presence up here. I'd use them for sure.

 

Should be changing plugs by pulling the driver's side tire and opening the little rubber flap to get at them. Makes it very easy to access with a long enough extension and universal joint. Just ensure you start them by hand then tighten with a ratchet. If it is cross-threaded you will need to pull the whole motor.

 

Motor likely needs to be pulled - same for an inline six or V motor with back plugs - no way to get back there to fix.

I'm sure you know - always thread anything that is inserted into a tapped/threaded connection by hand first.