RXeckless

iTrader: (5)

Exactly!

Start with the simple stuff first. May be other problems but start with this first!

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, if you look closely, the hole doesn't terminate, it looks to have an opening at the bottom toward the front of the car, and it's full of the same yellow crap that was in the airbox.

If only you had an access port, we could check your fuel trims. Would you have an obd tool that is capable of data logging? Perhaps a laptop to obd device?

ttame16

iTrader: (2)

I'm having the same exact issue but mine is an S1. There is a hell of a back story to how my issue started dating back to April. Most of it is irrelevant though so I won't cram the OPs thread with it.

I have almost completely ruled out all possible causes EXCEPT a vacuum leak. The problem is I can't find it. I can hear it at certain loads and rpms but I couldn't even find it with smoke. I do have a few ideas of where it may be. It's just a matter of finding time between school and work (both full time aka fml lol).

For the OP:
-Do you have any knowledge of the UIM being recently removed? Or possibly the VDI or SSV?
-Ever smell any fuel from under the UIM where the fuel injectors are?
-Do you ever get what seems like a random misfire at idle?
-Can you get your hands on an OBDII reader? preferably one that can actually read and display live data?
-Do you ever experience what seem like little backfires (maybe lean pops) when driving slightly more aggressive that "normal" driving?
-Have you checked your fuel pressure?

Again, I know that mine is an S1 and yours is an S2 but the problems seem similar enough to bounce ideas off each other. Like I said, I've tried just about everything so far and have ruled out everything besides a vacuum leak, granted our similar issues may be caused by completely different problems.

poacherinthezoo

I watched the video again, and it's hard to say for sure given the gearing difference between the GT and the R3, but does anyone else think the car is taking a long time to rev up? I'm assuming, based on your other posts, that you had the gas pedal to the floor during that video, in what appears to be 2nd gear? Could be an indication of a clogged cat (which is very plausible since the misfires you've been having may have burned it out) and/or a problem with your primary (upstream) O2 sensor.

Also, I find myself getting hung up on "smelly white smoke on start up" and the compression numbers. Any more details on the smell of this white smoke? If it's only happening on the first start of the day it could be due to a small leak in the coolant seal(s) only allowing a noticeable amount of coolant to enter the engine during prolonged (i.e. overnight) shutdown periods. Does it have the sweet aroma of coolant, and if you don't run the car for 3-5 days is there more smoke than when the car sits for only 1 day?

It surprises me that this high RPM bucking is the only problem/symptom your experiencing if the aforementioned compression numbers are in fact accurate. I can't help but recall your previous thread with the sandy intake and crappy air filter, which may have allowed the MAF to get damaged (or possibly gotten damaged during the previous owner's installation of that cone filter) or allowed sand to enter the engine and damage it. Your images provide some possible support to this, as they show a very large quantity of what appears to be a sandy substance all over the engine bag.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

I think you've nailed it, 7k @ 80kph makes it 2nd gear, it should be WAY faster. Definitely cause to look at the cat. I would also not drive it until it's checked out.

DVerdeyen

iTrader: (1)

Would it be because of clogging? Would the limited airflow still allow him to rev like that but buckle only at high RPMs?

Sub'd so I can learn more about this topic. Very interesting

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

So. I went to my shop today and used a good OBDII and read the info on the O2 and cat and both come out as "good" according to the OBD. I'm not rich and in fact I'm a wee bit lean when hot (lines up well with the idea of a vacuum leak).

I'll check the smell of the white smoke today. I double checked the compression numbers and the people couldn't confirm that the numbers were any different at 250rpm or 333rpm. They said the machine gave them what it gave them which is bloody frustrating as I'm not sure how to take that.

I'll take another video today too with a full tank of gas with her nice and warm and I'll do it in second and in third.


In regards to the sandy intake/filter/airbox. Is there anything I can do to clean all that crap out? Maybe seafoam it or something before all that sand gets burned into my engine cavaties (not sure if that's how that works... ha).

I ordered the plug from Mazda and it's supposed to be here by next Tuesday. PITA.
And I checked for the nipple that was previously mentioned and could not find it. I will include another video showing all the parts of my intake so everyone can see everything clearly.

I truly do appreciate all of your help everyone.

-D

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

I have no knowlege of the UIM being removed or the VDI or SSV (although I've considered removing at least the ssv to clean it) I may get some decarb and do that today. I do occasionally get random misfires at idle after hard driving and only once have a had a run of little backfires when driving aggressively. Where should I go to get my fuel pressure checked? I've wanted to for a while.

-D

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

AND in other news I'm buying that kiwi thing to hook up to my OBDII input and REV II. So I should be able to post numbers and all that jazz within a week for every time of reading.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

The catalytic converter converter efficiency is not in question, but if it's clogged, it's not letting exhaust gas out in the volume that needs to come out, which means excessive backpressure, exhaust port heat and engine death. So before you make any more pulls to redline, drop the cat and check it visually. It should be a fine unbroken honeycomb without any rattle, and you should be able to shine a light through it.

For the lean not rich thing, you need to test that stuff at wide open throttle. Below that you're in closed loop so the ECU compensates for any leaks you have. What you want to look at are Short term and long term fuel trims, if you OBD2 reader can show that. If you see those, get a reading at different engine speeds/loads and report back.

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

Sh*t. Alright well I already did 3 more redline pulls but those will be the last ones. I will drop the cat when I get home in a couple of hours.

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

In the meantime here are the spoils of my idiocy
First time I tried to upload both of them it failed... so here's the smaller one that suceeded... the other will be up shorly.

This one is just sitting in neutral after the car is warm and full of gas (15+ minutes of driving previous)

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg508/ds08tf/IMG_0860_zps0fd0db20.mp4

jasonrxeight

the first rev is the throttle all the way down from the beginning? or did you feathered it?
if its fully down and its revving like that I think your SSV might be stuck.

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

Here we go. The first redline is 2nd gear, the second redline is 3rd gear.

http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg508/ds08tf/IMG_0859_zps55826705.mp4

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

Naw I feathered it up.

jasonrxeight

what if you go full throttle?

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

I'll take a video when I go outside in an hour or so. Want her to be hot? Before shutdown or cold?

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

Here's the foot to the floor redline from idle in neutral
http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg508/ds08tf/2014-10-08233622_zpsbfaf7470.mp4

jasonrxeight

Seems pretty normal.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Revving out in neutral doesn't mean anything, there is no load on the engine, so you're in a totally different part of the ecu maps and using much less fuel. Check that cat...

RXeckless

iTrader: (5)

The OP neglected to say in his first post was the mileage on the vehicle which is 235,656 KM's or 146,428 miles. Also it did pass the etest when he purchased said car recently, maybe ???, private sale???. A clogged/blocked cat may be another issue, which could explain the bucking around 8K. Personally I would start by disassembling the whole air intake system and cleaning all the crap out of it. From your previous posts the car may not be up to snuff in many areas considering the mileage on it.

Did you ever replace that cone air filter with a stock one? Lots of crap even in the airbox.
Has the cat ever been replaced as I see you have most service records for the car.
All rotaries have a tendency to eat cats do to the high exhaust temps.

Like I said before start with the simple stuff and go from there.

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

I'll check the service record but it passed an etest within the last month. I know the starter and battery was recently replaced. It was too late last night but I will drop the cat this evening and give it a rattle.

In other news my car wouldn't start this morning. I got out took the key with me and under the hood the fuse box was whining away. Very odd. I also noticed the negative battery terminal was a little loose so I tightened it up. When I wiggled that wire the whine stopped and the car started. So maybe a loose connection to the starter isn't helping? Or could it be the ignition fuse?

Either way I will be looking at replacing all three of those wires shortly with thicker gauge (big 3). Lots on the to do list. Hah.

Also in response to your question I put in a stock air filter the day after I posted those pics. And I did an oil change and have only used 93 so far as gas is concerned.

Sparks, Coils, Wires, Plugs all changed. And with the history of the changed battery and starter I thought my electrical system was clear.... apparently not.

I will be looking at all those connection later today too.

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

Soooo... it was really cold today. But I got under my car determined to see if I could detach the cat. I realized quickly that my cat is garbage. Here are a bunch of pics and a video of me peeling it and punching it for dem rattles.





http://i1241.photobucket.com/albums/gg508/ds08tf/2014-10-09170921_zps2e5afbca.mp4

MazdaPi

iTrader: (1)

I assume this means I have a problem...

poacherinthezoo

The only problem I see is that you weren't able to get the cat off to take a look at it. Since the heat shield is all rusted, I can't differentiate ratting from a broken up catalyst from ratting from the broken up heat shield. That kind of rust and degradation of the heat shield is par for the course for a car with your mileage and in your climate. Take those 3 nuts off that attach the cat/midpipe to the header (this will almost certainty require an overnight soaking with PB blaster/WD40 and a butane torch to get them free). Note also that they are on studs, so work on the removing the nuts. Finally, be mindful of the gasket that seals the midpipe to the header and the O2 sensor - if you end up damaging either one it's just one more thing that will need to be replaced.

Once you get the midpipe detached you can shine a flashlight down it and look at the catalyst material/honeycomb. It should look like neatly arranged honeycomb that you can easily see through with the flash light. It should not be melted together or falling apart. Examples of bad cats:








Due to the extensive rusting down there it is likely going to be a hard fight to get the cat off to check it. I recommend giving the nuts a nice thorough soaking/repeated drenching with something like PB Blaster and letting it soak overnight, then coming at them with a nice sized breaker bar/cheater bar and a butane torch. Hopefully you won't break any of the studs in the process.



It's been awhile since I've been under my car but your whole exhaust looks a little funny to me. I'm not aware of any differences in emissions systems between US and Canadian cars...?