donb

2010 R3
10W-30 Regular Oil
New battery, coils, wires and spark plugs.

I store my car every winter. Take the battery out and put it on a trickle charger inside the house.
For some reason at the start of every summer I can't get it to start. I try the de-flooding procedure but it never works for me. I end up having to toe it to mazda and they deflood it for me for $100.
I'm getting sick of doing this at the start of every summer and was wondering if there was a way to prevent it.

Any help would be appreciated.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Do you put fuel stabilizer?

Do you know what the dealer actually does for the $100?

In general, a healthy car shouldn't flood. How old are your ignition coils?

donb

I have used fuel stabilizer, ignition coils have less than 10k on them and i upgraded to the BHR ones.

donb

The dealer told me they take out the fuse and squirt oil down the one tube that the oil is connected to. I’m sorry i forget the proper term.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Have you had a compression test? Oil helps seal the combustion chamber and build compression so if it only starts with oil, that might be a clue.

Does the car run fine after this every year?

donb

I have not had a compression test recently.
The car runs perfect all summer long. No issues starting hot or cold.
idles good and has no trouble accelerating in all gears.
The only issue is starting after sitting for 3 weeks +

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Hmm. This is unusual. When you park the car for the winter, do you drive it around to warm up first? I'm thinking that it floods in the fall, sits all winter and you find it flooded in the spring.

donb

I always shut it off after being warmed up. Usually store it in my parents garage for the winter.

donb

Bringing this back up. I was able to get it started and a bunch of smoke came out but it died. I tried feathering the gas pedal but it didn't work. I dont wanna try to many times and ruin something... any suggestions?

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

This implies that there is a liquid (oil, fuel or antifreeze) sitting in the housings, which burns on startup, then fouls the plugs.

Next time you try to start, FLOOR the gas pedal while you crank, for about three seconds.

Sounds silly to do that, but the computer will cut the fuel and spark, that lets the rotor sweep the chambers.

Then try a normal 'foot-off' start.....