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rx8 r3 wont start after winter storage

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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 03:04 PM
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rx8 r3 wont start after winter storage

Hello,
My rx8 2010 r3 wont start after winter storage.
I do the same thing i do every winter.
Unplug the battery and put fuel stabilizer.
The car ran totally fine before storage. I stored it after I took it for a drive and it was warmed up.
I pushed the car out of the garage and tried to start it but it just wont start.
How could it possibly flood when I haven't drivin it or started it?
Any help would be appreciated.
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 03:08 PM
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How fast is the starter cranking? Battery is fully charged and good? If so, you could check the spark plugs. Possible they could have gone bad after storage.
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by CaymanRotary
How fast is the starter cranking? Battery is fully charged and good? If so, you could check the spark plugs. Possible they could have gone bad after storage.
Seems to be cranking at a normal speed.
Battery is good, checked with multi meter.
How is it possible to flood without driving/starting? I stored it after a good drive too.
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 03:23 PM
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probably low compression plus the oil ran off the sealing surfaces after sitting for so long

you can try getting some oil into each chamber and see if that helps, a strong/full battery charge is best too
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
The oil ran off the sealing surfaces after sitting for so long

you can try getting some oil into each chamber and see if that helps
What do you mean by this?
Thanks
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
probably low compression plus the oil ran off the sealing surfaces after sitting for so long

you can try getting some oil into each chamber and see if that helps, a strong/full battery charge is best too
I couldn’t really assume it’s low compression just yet. Even if it was low, it would still at least start cold. I would suspect an ignition system issue. Would start by examining spark plugs. OP, Before storage, when was the last time you replaced coils, spark plugs and wires?
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by CaymanRotary
I couldn’t really assume it’s low compression just yet. Even if it was low, it would still at least start cold. I would suspect an ignition system issue. Would start by examining spark plugs. OP, Before storage, when was the last time you replaced coils, spark plugs and wires?
Thank you haha the low compression drop really scares me.
I ordered the BHR kit with the spark plugs and wires. I bought the car used and I've never changed them so it's been 2 summers of light driving.
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by donb
Thank you haha the low compression drop really scares me.
I ordered the BHR kit with the spark plugs and wires. I bought the car used and I've never changed them so it's been 2 summers of light driving.
Definitely pull the spark plugs. Make sure they are not fouled. May need a new set. Added bonus, you’ll know if it is flooded or not.
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 04:33 PM
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Is there anything cuter than two newbs in a forum pod?



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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 05:41 AM
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Check the wiring. A critter could've had lunch under the hood.
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
probably low compression plus the oil ran off the sealing surfaces after sitting for so long

you can try getting some oil into each chamber and see if that helps, a strong/full battery charge is best too
+100. Really sound advice Imo. This is where I'd personally start. GL!
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Federighi
+100. Really sound advice Imo. This is where I'd personally start. GL!
Cant tell if being sarcastic lol
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 09:07 PM
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with a head that hard you won’t need to wear a helmet when racing

let me help you out though; 15 years of owning, racing, building, modifying, tuning on RX8s never have I ever had an engine either flood or not start, not even after cranking it up cold and turning it off, never after letting it sit for months on end with zero treatment, cranking slowly on a low battery in cold weather, and so on. I also never had any engine with low compression, or puke oil, or any other supposed expert opinion stuff people are going to feed you on here.

now that doesn’t mean I’m right though. Maybe just your luck a rat chewed through some wiring, or just your luck a fuse blew and you didn’t bother checking them all yet, or just your luck the ignition coils took a dump at the most inconvenient time, and so on. Nobody can accurately diagnose all the possible just your luck stuff over the internet. So all that just your luck kind of stuff aside, it’s likely low compression due to a lack of sealing oil which is more likely to happen with the thin Mazda spec 5W20 oil and also as I pointed out the battery needs to be strong/fully charged. A rotary engine is highly dependent on cranking speed to build low rpm compression.

good luck.

Last edited by TeamRX8; Apr 23, 2020 at 09:13 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
with a head that hard you won’t need to wear a helmet when racing

let me help you out though; 15 years of owning, racing, building, modifying, tuning on RX8s never have I ever had an engine either flood or not start, not even after cranking it up cold and turning it off, never after letting it sit for months on end with zero treatment, cranking slowly on a low battery in cold weather, and so on. I also never had any engine with low compression, or puke oil, or any other supposed expert opinion stuff people are going to feed you on here.

now that doesn’t mean I’m right though. Maybe just your luck a rat chewed through some wiring, or just your luck a fuse blew and you didn’t bother checking them all yet, or just your luck the ignition coils took a dump at the most inconvenient time, and so on. Nobody can accurately diagnose all the possible just your luck stuff over the internet. So all that just your luck kind of stuff aside though, it’s likely low compression due to a lack of sealing oil which is more likely to happen with the thin Mazda spec 5W20 oil and also as I pointed out the battery needs to be strong/fully charged. A rotary engine is highly dependent on cranking speed to build low rpm compression.

good luck.
I wasn't disagreeing with you I simply asked what you meant by "you can try getting some oil into each chamber and see if that helps"
What is your trick for not flooding then engine after turning it off cold?
I've been using 10w30 btw

Thanks
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 09:23 PM
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well my apology, I should be more patient with people in need of help, but short on experience. I’m perhaps a bit too jaded at times. Let me ask you this; can you smell fuel or did you pull a leading plug to verify it was wet/flooded?
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 09:28 PM
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Here's what i've done.
Pushed the car out of the garage, connected the battery. Tried to start it twice. It didn't start so I stopped because I didn't want to flood it.
I've ordered some new coils/spark plugs and wires to start as they haven't been replaced in my possession.
I haven't tried anything else yet because I was waiting for some advice on this forum before i screwed anything up.
Thanks
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by donb
Here's what i've done.
Pushed the car out of the garage, connected the battery. Tried to start it twice. It didn't start so I stopped because I didn't want to flood it.
I've ordered some new coils/spark plugs and wires to start as they haven't been replaced in my possession.
I haven't tried anything else yet because I was waiting for some advice on this forum before i screwed anything up.
Thanks
Always a good place to start. Even if it’s not what’s causing the problem, it’s always good to make sure your ignition system is at its best anyways.
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 01:15 PM
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well it doesn’t do any good to throw money at parts without doing some basic diagnosis first. You can pretty much count on it being one or a combination of:

no spark
no fuel
flooded

Just because it didn’t fire off doesn’t mean it flooded. So you rushed out to buy a new ignition, but if the fuel pump fuse etc blew and it’s just not getting fuel then that wasn’t such a good idea. Generally speaking if it’s flooded you’re going to get a strong raw gasoline smell out of the exhaust pipe. Alternatively, if you pull a leading spark plug out it would be wet with gasoline. You could also then check to see if the plug is firing while cranking by using an HEI spark tester. That’s just a general description, there are some procedures to follow for doing the spark test properly.

I just want to caution you that there’s no shortage of “experts” here who don’t really have much experience, but love to rush in and proudly give advice without understanding fully what they’re talking about. They might even give you an attaboy for rushing out and spending money without having a basis for doing so. They don’t care about wasting their own money, so they surely won’t care about wasting yours.
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
well it doesn’t do any good to throw money at parts without doing some basic diagnosis first. You can pretty much count on it being one or a combination of:

no spark
no fuel
flooded

Just because it didn’t fire off doesn’t mean it flooded. So you rushed out to buy a new ignition, but if the fuel pump fuse etc blew and it’s just not getting fuel then that wasn’t such a good idea. Generally speaking if it’s flooded you’re going to get a strong raw gasoline smell out of the exhaust pipe. Alternatively, if you pull a leading spark plug out it would be wet with gasoline. You could also then check to see if the plug is firing while cranking by using an HEI spark tester. That’s just a general description, there are some procedures to follow for doing the spark test properly.

I just want to caution you that there’s no shortage of “experts” here who don’t really have much experience, but love to rush in and proudly give advice without understanding fully what they’re talking about. They might even give you an attaboy for rushing out and spending money without having a basis for doing so. They don’t care about wasting their own money, so they surely won’t care about wasting yours.
Here's what i've done today.
Made sure battery was fully charged.
Inspected all the lines that I could see, didn't notice any damage
Inspected fuses, no issues.
Tried the deflood procedure, no luck.

Like I said. I purchased new coils, spark plugs and wires because it was something I was going to do this summer regardless.
I grabbed the tune up set from BHR.

Once those come in I will pull the spark plugs and check them out.

Thanks
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 04:11 PM
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You keep saying flooded, but haven’t provided any information to support that. It seems like maybe you see my words, but don’t understand their meaning. I only mean that to get your attention, not to be a jerk.

Can you hear the fuel pump run/hum for several seconds just turning the key to the on position without cranking it?

Can you smell raw fuel at the tailpipe right after cranking it with no-start?

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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
You keep saying flooded, but haven’t provided any information to support that. It seems like maybe you see my words, but don’t understand their meaning. I only mean that to get your attention, not to be a jerk.

Can you hear the fuel pump run/hum for several seconds just turning the key to the on position without cranking it?

Can you smell raw fuel at the tailpipe right after cranking it with no-start?
Re-read what I wrote.
I did not say it's flooded.
I was just writting down what i've tried.

I didn't listen closely to the fuel pump but I will next time.

I didn't smell raw fuel.
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 04:29 PM
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well ok, I did make that assumption based on you stating deflood procedure, but that serves no purpose if it’s not flooded.

I’m sure you recognize that it won’t start without gas.

Yet if it’s cranking with gas and not firing off then it either has no spark or is flooded and killing the spark. In either case you will have raw fuel in the engine and exhaust. My suggestion would be to pull one or both leading plugs immediately after cranking it with a no-start condition and see if they are wet with fuel.

If email or text is better then you can pm me your contact info if preferred.
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
well ok, I did make that assumption based on you stating deflood procedure, but that serves no purpose if it’s not flooded.

I’m sure you recognize that it won’t start without gas.

Yet if it’s cranking with gas and not firing off then it either has no spark or is flooded and killing the spark. In either case you will have raw fuel in the engine and exhaust. My suggestion would be to pull one or both leading plugs immediately after cranking it with a no-start condition and see if they are wet with fuel.

If email or text is better then you can pm me your contact info if preferred.
Really appreciate that, as you can tell im no mechanic. I only tried the deflood procedure just for peice of mind and to just cross it off the list.
I will send a message when I get those parts.
Thanks
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
I just want to caution you that there’s no shortage of “experts” here who don’t really have much experience, but love to rush in and proudly give advice without understanding fully what they’re talking about. They might even give you an attaboy for rushing out and spending money without having a basis for doing so. They don’t care about wasting their own money, so they surely won’t care about wasting yours.
He already bought the components. I only suggested to remove plugs and inspect them and possibly replace. Weak ignition system can and is a major component to diagnose first if the car doesn’t start. Fact.
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 06:08 PM
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Like I said.
I was planning to swap out the ignition coils with BHR ones regardless of this situation happening.
The spark plugs were never changed in my possession and i've owned it for 2 summers, don't know when the last owner changed them.

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