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It doesn't say bring it up to full operating temperature, does it?
Warm = Warm
Not hot
Not cold
Just warm.
Regardless, a cold engine that is started and comes up to temp on idle is still not anywhere near as hot as if it had just pulled in from a 1 hour drive. The radiator fan shouldn't even have come on unless you leave it idling long after it's actually warmed. 10 minutes after shutting both off the difference between them is even more substantial. Technically the car is fully operational well below normal ECT operational temperature of 97*C.
or try it and see. I'm just letting you know if the sensor gets too hot it will provide false high readings. No skin off my back otherwise.
Team out ...
Can't speak for anyone else, but I've never seen a context in which "warm up the engine" meant anything other than "get the engine up to operating temp."
By the way, source for what you're saying about sensors getting too hot and reading high?
'Warming up' the engine from Mazda means getting your engine to 'normal' operating temperature....so it is hot.
Obviously, an engine is going to sit (cool) for a while removing plugs, etc .
BTW: Be careful on what 'tester' you are using, a few years ago I did a FD RX-7 with new Twisted Rotors V1 I had (since sold) and then directly after with my OEM Mazda unit and there was a difference.
Mazda said pass, twisted Rotors said fail, on same car, we did it again, after another engine 'warm up'. Mazda first then TR, same results.
It was borderline, but from memory engine went for a few more years...
IMO, when it is bad...you know/feel it, if you 'really' know your car.
If anyone wants an RE PC (only) Compression Calculator I can post, it is Mazda US, but you must use IE.
Not really any different to the fixed scale graph, but this one you enter results and rpm and it tells you good, bad.
I just remembered being referred to this by my Mazda contact..
This Dealer advice just out 10 days ago from Mazda...
2004-2011- RX-8
RX-8 ENGINE compression Tester Calculator
When using SST (49 F018 9A0C) to measure compression on a rotary engine, use the Rotary Compression Tester Calculator
to determine if the engine is, or is not, developing the proper level of compression.
NOTE
The Compression Inspection instructions should be referenced anytime you’re
conducting a rotary engine compression test.
In addition to the Rotary Engine Compression Tester Calculator, the Compression
Tester instructions are also located with the Compression Inspection instructions.
You can also test both Front and Rear Rotors at the exact same crank and in one test. (edit, provided you have the optional OEM second adapter).
Gave up on finding a R3, instead I found a series 1 with a bit better compression at lower rpm(250) and much more mileage with original engine compared to the r3 compression numbers I posted at 268rpm and much less mileage. Of course, the previous owners have a lot to do with that..
Last edited by ShadowDragon78; Aug 5, 2015 at 07:49 PM.
'Warming up' the engine from Mazda means getting your engine to 'normal' operating temperature....so it is hot.
Obviously, an engine is going to sit (cool) for a while removing plugs, etc .
BTW: Be careful on what 'tester' you are using, a few years ago I did a FD RX-7 with new Twisted Rotors V1 I had (since sold) and then directly after with my OEM Mazda unit and there was a difference.
Mazda said pass, twisted Rotors said fail, on same car, we did it again, after another engine 'warm up'. Mazda first then TR, same results.
It was borderline, but from memory engine went for a few more years...
IMO, when it is bad...you know/feel it, if you 'really' know your car.
If anyone wants an RE PC (only) Compression Calculator I can post, it is Mazda US, but you must use IE.
Not really any different to the fixed scale graph, but this one you enter results and rpm and it tells you good, bad.
Please link it, I am curious. locally we did my car on the same day with the rotary diagnostics tester we own, the Twisted rotors tester, and the Mazda tester hooked up to the shop laptop with the Mazda software and there was a rather significant variance similar to what you noted and so I advise the same on a borderline engine. The Rotary Diagnostics tester and the Twisted Rotors tester were fairly close with results but they varied on the few cars we did while I was borrowing the Twisted Rotors tester.
Yeah, I played around with the Mazda US dealer network calculator when I had access to the network via work, and the foxed.ca seems to be a dead replica of it. And since for a long time Mazda had a very obvious bug in their website that allowed "free access" (***cough***) I suspect the foxed.ca one is literally just code copied from the dealer one with some visual changes.
Gave up on finding a R3, instead I found a series 1 with a bit better compression at lower rpm(250) and much more mileage with original engine compared to the r3 compression numbers I posted at 268rpm and much less mileage. Of course, the previous owners have a lot to do with that..
Well, it's not what I would have done, for a variety of reasons. But I guess I shouldn't judge, because... my RX-8 is not what 99% of people would have done, either. lol
Nice find, and congrats on the car. HUGE bonus that the solid compression is on the original engine rather than on a rebuild, IMO. I feel like it's always best when the factory gets the build right and the first owner gets the first few thousand miles right.
Well, it's not what I would have done, for a variety of reasons. But I guess I shouldn't judge, because... my RX-8 is not what 99% of people would have done, either. lol
Nice find, and congrats on the car. HUGE bonus that the solid compression is on the original engine rather than on a rebuild, IMO. I feel like it's always best when the factory gets the build right and the first owner gets the first few thousand miles right.
Enjoy it!
Well, I was planning on driving to buy it saturday, but someone else beat me to it.
I guess it just wasn't meant to be. I will find another one though.
