Mavvrikk

Recently I was driving home and I lost the ability to shift into any gear. The clutch pedal was going about halfway down before I hit any pressure. I have replaced just about everything, clutch, master and slave cylinders but it didn’t seem to have fixed anything. The best pedal response I can get is again halfway down before I hit pressure, but now it wont even return fully just to that halfway point. I had a rough time trying to bleed the system and I hope that’s still my problem. I have an air vacuum bleeder I’ve been using, is there an easy way to do it? I pulled about 2 qts through and I’m still getting bubbles.

Mavvrikk

Don’t know if it’s worth mentioning but I got my master and slave cylinders from O’reillys. My local rotary mechanic thinks that’s my problem.

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

Have you checked if you have the super common broken clutch pedal problem?

Mavvrikk

Yes, I checked, it’s not the pedal. I bled the system again with OEM parts on it and I’m back to half a pedal. I cannot shift into any gears
I can’t think of anything else it could be and I’m worried it’s the synchros

apex1

I bought a master from Napa last year and the clutch started to lose pressure the longer I held it down. I replaced it 2 weeks ago with one from rock auto and I have not had the issue since.

it’s not unheard of for new parts to be faulty. Could be the issue.

Mavvrikk

So the problem was a couple things. I did a thorough inspection and found the master was bad. Didn’t want to do everything twice so I replaced them both with LuK parts. I found someone tried to fix the clutch pedal previously (quite poorly) so I pulled it and spot welded/ brazed it back together. After an adjustment it’s working perfectly. Now I’m having a problem keeping it running. I had the battery in and out of it a handful of times and on a charger overnight. I can keep the engine going if I give it gas but it’ll die at idle. The engines warm now so I’m going to let it cool and try the 20 brake pumps and see if that fixes it

Mavvrikk

Update! It did fix it but when it had warmed up, I went to put the cover back on and heard an air leak. I found I forgot to hook up an air hose under the UIM that leads to the air box. There’s a green bobber thing that it connects to which I think is a one way valve. The engine will stall out after I drive it a little bit. It’ll start right back up and the rpm’s take a second to balance out. I’m throwing a P0171 system too lean. Is that because the hose wasn’t connected and sucked too much air in? Either way I’m probably going to let it cool down and try it again

Also, does anyone know the exact procedure to use during the 20 brake technique? Do I have to let the engine warm entirely before driving or is it good to go immediately

Loki

iTrader: (1)

If you had the battery out it's going to take the car a drive or two to learn how to idle, especially how to come down to idle from throttle input. Having the VFAD hose off didn't help but now that it's all connected, it should figure itself out.

The 20-brake procedure doesn't need the car to be running, just needs it to be in ON. You can drive immediately after.

Not sure if you're asking in general whether warming up is required: no. In fact idling cold is the worst thing you can do. Drive normal until it warms up, don't beat on it cold. Like any other car.