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Im looking at a 2011 rx8 listed for $2,000.
Seller says you have to stay on tye gas or it stalls. Had Mazda do compression test a month before symptoms (so about 2 months ago from today). Results were normalized at 250rpm
R1 - 761 725 744
R2 - 709 685 662
Mazda said these were passing numbers. I asked him if the cat glows red and he asked me where the cat was and what does it look like. I assume this guy has zero knowledge of car mechanics much less rotaries, but he could be playing dumb. Im curious to know what these compression numbers mean to yall. Thanks !
I'd go over and see the car - make sure it's cold and start and let it idle for a while in the driveway while you check everything out. Then after 10 min at temp, check the temp needle and if OK shut it off and restart it. Then go for a drive with him and see how it runs.
Passing?!? No, not really. Rotor 2 has two faces below and one just at. It states this was before the issue began. Unless you’re prepared to drop $6000 putting another engine in and whatever else might be needed at that price, you might want to reconsider.
Selling a 2011 for $2k is pretty much the equivalent of writing it off as a rolling chassis. It’d be best to think going in that it’s going to need a new engine. Pretty much the same could be said for most RX8s short of having significant proof otherwise. It’s not just the those measurements either, but how they compare to each other for balance; which it checks out there.
You can see this below; pc was not cooperating so I had to take a phone image to get a copy quickly, so apology for the poor quality
I’m sure some people will say that amount is too high, but in my experience most will grossly underestimate or just do/pay for a poor job otherwise. You’ll be lucky to get near 20 mpg avg with a really good engine at that.
who cares about any compression numbers at that price? a 2011 for 2k with no engine would be a great deal. the fact that it comes with engine parts is a huge bonus. the fact that those parts are complete and assembled into a somewhat functional engine is a massive bonus.
I doubt he’d be concerned or asking about it if that were the case. Somebody who isn’t familiar with the situation might not know what to expect, or even make that kind of statement. Which putting it nicely is quite bold considering what little info is provided.
It’s easy to shoot your mouth off with somebody else's money, or when you can afford it regardless and maybe that person can’t.
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I doubt he’d be concerned or asking about it if that were the case. Somebody who isn’t familiar with the situation might not know what to expect, or even make that kind of statement. Which putting it nicely is quite bold considering what little info is provided.
It’s easy to shoot your mouth off with somebody else's money, or when you can afford it regardless and maybe that person can’t.
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wasn't intending to get personal, just trying to put in perspective that, in general, a series 2 car for 2 grand that includes an engine at all seems like a crazy good deal!
it’s not personal and I can understand how it might ‘seem’ that way, but am all too aware of my own past, stupid mistakes of being overly enthusiastic emotionally. My only intention is to implore on people to instead be careful and use their head because things aren’t always what they seem. Often most similar situations are too good to be true. It pays to be able to see the bottom; what’s down there, and how far is it rather than just leaping over the wall not fully aware because it seems like there’s a pot of gold on the other side.
I don’t think you’re being intentionally malicious or trying to get someone in over their head, but when even a good engine is going to set you back many thousands of dollars some other major problem on the horizon can change grins and giggles into broke and suicidal quickly. I see you only have a few posts here, but I have a lot if posts about how many parts shouldn’t really be reused when rebuilding these engines. Assuming they even might appear acceptable, because it’s not so unusual that they’re not when it’s a Renesis. If you're being careful i.e. pragmatic, it’s best to assume the engine is toast and you have a core to avoid paying that fee. It’s not personal, but it comes across like not being very aware of all the assumptions your posts suggest.
I did refer to it as a rolling chassis, and can see how that might have influenced your response some, but if it’s such a good deal then why only ask for $2k? It might be a good deal, there might be more to the story, or it might either be a scam, stolen, salvage title, or unforeseen money pit waiting to happen. Don’t assume; what are the worst case scenarios and are you prepared to cover them adequately? Having been on here a long time; many owners have come and gone, often because of the costs involved. compared to a different brand/model.
Im looking at a 2011 rx8 listed for $2,000.
Seller says you have to stay on tye gas or it stalls. Had Mazda do compression test a month before symptoms (so about 2 months ago from today). Results were normalized at 250rpm
R1 - 761 725 744
R2 - 709 685 662
Mazda said these were passing numbers. I asked him if the cat glows red and he asked me where the cat was and what does it look like. I assume this guy has zero knowledge of car mechanics much less rotaries, but he could be playing dumb. Im curious to know what these compression numbers mean to yall. Thanks !
How many miles in the car? Any 10 year old high mileage car may need so much more than just a rebuilt engine, and those things can add to thousands of more dollars, like a new cat, new cooling system, new exhaust, shocks, wheels and tires, ignition system. A knowledgeable Mazda person or mechanic needs to look over car. If you go into this without the budget to fix and/or replace any necessary items, your "bargain" RX8 could be a money pit nightmare.
Not trying to dissuade you, just go into this with your eyes wide open. From an owner of seven rotary cars since 1974 with way over a million rotary miles driven on street and track , with a fully operational and pristine 40th Anniversary Edition RX8 that I still love and enjoy, bought new back in 2008. In that time I have needed to replace many key items that simply served their time, and upgraded others for better performance and longevity Cheers.
I think team is correct look at it as a rolling chassis that way no surprises. If for some reason it is the cat or heavy carbon than bonus. But like he said if you know you can’t or don’t want to put money into an engine then pass.
I was in the same boat last year every one I looked at I was looking at as a roller. Then I found a 13k mile car at a Mazda dealer that had great compression. That one I didn’t count as a roller.
Side note I was shocked how many times the dealer or seller would ghost me after asking for a Mazda shop to do a comp check. On my dime including time for them to deliver. Kept me from a lot of bad dealings.
If you decide not to buy shoot me a pm. I’m looking for another roller to put a motor in for my wife.
I have a red and I’d paint hers yellow and get custom plates ketchup and mustard.
yeah, I do try to dissuade people, intentionally so. Because imo the only way owning an RX8 makes sense is knowing what you’re in for, going in eyes wide open, and having a real passion regardless of the effort and cost involved.
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I agree sir. I see it all the time people paying for something assuming or should I say hoping for the best when in reality they should assume the worst just in case. But I tend to think that way on everything to a detriment.
02-06-2021, 02:46 PM
