2009 Mazda RX8 R3 Deflooding
#1
2009 Mazda RX8 R3 Deflooding
Hi there,
I saw another post similar to this, but there were few extra questions I had and just wanted to double-check if this procedure is right.
Last night when I tried to start my car, it would just make this noise sounding like it wants to start, but there just isn't final oomph to start it.
I researched a lot last night, and it seems like my engine is flooded so I would like to deflood it.
When I googled how, it seems like the best way is to put your foot all the way in your gas pedal and do the 10 second trick for few times to get the fuel out of the intake.
But all of this method was used on the Series 1 RX8, so is there any difference between deflooding method of Series 1 and Series 2?
I just want to do it right before I break more things within the car.
I don't think my engine needs a re-build since the motor only has around 30k and was recently rebuilt few years ago and I've been giving a lot of care since.
It's my first time deflooding a car, so any tips or method that's better than this would help!
Thank you so much!
Also PS: Is there any difference within changing the coils of Series 1 and Series 2 RX9? I've used this video:
as a reference, but my airbox doesn't come out like that easily and I've had a trouble trying to take it out. So any tips again would be helpful!
UPDATE: so I’m currently trying out the deflooding method and my car is acting like this:
By the looks of it, is my car actually flooded I’m not 100% sure...
I saw another post similar to this, but there were few extra questions I had and just wanted to double-check if this procedure is right.
Last night when I tried to start my car, it would just make this noise sounding like it wants to start, but there just isn't final oomph to start it.
I researched a lot last night, and it seems like my engine is flooded so I would like to deflood it.
When I googled how, it seems like the best way is to put your foot all the way in your gas pedal and do the 10 second trick for few times to get the fuel out of the intake.
But all of this method was used on the Series 1 RX8, so is there any difference between deflooding method of Series 1 and Series 2?
I just want to do it right before I break more things within the car.
I don't think my engine needs a re-build since the motor only has around 30k and was recently rebuilt few years ago and I've been giving a lot of care since.
It's my first time deflooding a car, so any tips or method that's better than this would help!
Thank you so much!
Also PS: Is there any difference within changing the coils of Series 1 and Series 2 RX9? I've used this video:
as a reference, but my airbox doesn't come out like that easily and I've had a trouble trying to take it out. So any tips again would be helpful!
UPDATE: so I’m currently trying out the deflooding method and my car is acting like this:
Last edited by Daichifr; 04-08-2021 at 06:40 PM. Reason: Adding extra information
#2
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Yep it's the same procedure for deflooding and coil changes. You can remove and clean/dry the spark plugs if you want to help it along. Deflooding usually takes longer than you think it will so plan to charge your battery for the attempt.
Was the car shut off cold or something like that?
Was the car shut off cold or something like that?
#3
I'm really not sure, the car ran perfectly fine the day before, but when I tried to start it last night it just wouldn't start...
And I drove it around enough to make sure the engine was warm enough to be shut off, so I'm really not sure what the cause was?
Anything else I should keep in mind other than taking the spark plugs off and keeping the battery charged??
And I drove it around enough to make sure the engine was warm enough to be shut off, so I'm really not sure what the cause was?
Anything else I should keep in mind other than taking the spark plugs off and keeping the battery charged??
#4
Also should I replace the coils and plugs before I start the deflooding process or should I replace them after? Or does it make any difference? Other threads didn’t seem to clarify this part...
#5
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Replace those things before deflooding to make your life easier. Are the coils old? It's not because it flooded that you absolutely need new coils immediately, but if they're old that may be why its not starting.
See if the plugs are wet with fuel to confirm flooding is the actual problem.
See if the plugs are wet with fuel to confirm flooding is the actual problem.
#6
Ok perfect thank you so much for your advice!
im just wondering what exactly is the difference between flooded engine and engine that lost its compression and needs a rebuild. My car is like this right now and I’m trying the “unplug fuel pump, gas to the floor and cranking for 8 second” method rn but nothing seems to be working...
This is link to the video of what it’s like rn:
is this what it’s like to be flooded?
im just wondering what exactly is the difference between flooded engine and engine that lost its compression and needs a rebuild. My car is like this right now and I’m trying the “unplug fuel pump, gas to the floor and cranking for 8 second” method rn but nothing seems to be working...
This is link to the video of what it’s like rn:
is this what it’s like to be flooded?
#7
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Compression loss is irreversible mechanical damage. Flooding is your spark plugs being wet with fuel and unable to fire. Yes that is what flooding sounds like.
It could be a few other things like fuel pump failure or being out of gas. If it was me I would get the plugs out, dry and examine them, if you haven't already.
Also it will not start as long as you are pressing the gas. On the 3rd or 4th attempt you have to start lifting off the gas slowly and modulate until it catches. If not, start over. It takes longer thatn you would think.
It could be a few other things like fuel pump failure or being out of gas. If it was me I would get the plugs out, dry and examine them, if you haven't already.
Also it will not start as long as you are pressing the gas. On the 3rd or 4th attempt you have to start lifting off the gas slowly and modulate until it catches. If not, start over. It takes longer thatn you would think.
#8
Ok sounds good, I'll lift up the car tomorrow and pull out the plugs out tomorrow.
I also plan to replace the battery and plugs, but should I crank the engine while the plugs are pulled out?
You've truly been a life savior and i really appreciate your help Loki
I also plan to replace the battery and plugs, but should I crank the engine while the plugs are pulled out?
You've truly been a life savior and i really appreciate your help Loki
#9
So I spent the whole day today replacing the coils, plugs and the battery as well as doing the deflooding method of “take out fuel censor, hold gas, crank for 8 seconds” method but it didn’t work... I tried cranking it while the plugs were out to let out the carbons out of the spark plug hole with the fuel censor work prior and it still didn’t work also...I was wondering if you have any idea or solution to this? Anything would help at this point and thank you so much once again 🙏
#12
You should be able to sniff the liquid to distinguish between gas and oil or coolant on the plugs.
What "fuel sensor" are you referring to disconnecting? The fuel pump itself? If so, there is likely still pressurized fuel in the lines that can leak out if an injector is weak or when you crank if you don't start with the gas pedal to the floor. Then, the rail will get re-pressurized when you reconnect the fuel pump and turn the key on.
The way I've done it is by disconnecting the eccentric shaft position sensor on the nose of the engine (theoretically, disconnecting the fuel pump should work too but the plugs will still be firing, potentially creating a situation where a fuel and air mixture pushed out of the open plug hole could ignite), pulling out the trailing plugs (the higher ones), firmly planting the gas pedal to the floor, and cranking for at least 5 bursts of 10-15 seconds with ~30 seconds waiting in between. Then, clean all the plugs of any fluid, reassemble and try starting it again. For me, it's worked without touching the gas pedal after everything's been reassembled, although it took a bit more cranking than usual (maybe 8 seconds vs only 1-2).
With the plugs out, deflooding is more effective since the engine draws in air from the intake, expels that out the plug hole, then draws some fresh air back in the plug hole and pushes it into the exhaust, resulting in more airflow to help fuel evaporation.
What "fuel sensor" are you referring to disconnecting? The fuel pump itself? If so, there is likely still pressurized fuel in the lines that can leak out if an injector is weak or when you crank if you don't start with the gas pedal to the floor. Then, the rail will get re-pressurized when you reconnect the fuel pump and turn the key on.
The way I've done it is by disconnecting the eccentric shaft position sensor on the nose of the engine (theoretically, disconnecting the fuel pump should work too but the plugs will still be firing, potentially creating a situation where a fuel and air mixture pushed out of the open plug hole could ignite), pulling out the trailing plugs (the higher ones), firmly planting the gas pedal to the floor, and cranking for at least 5 bursts of 10-15 seconds with ~30 seconds waiting in between. Then, clean all the plugs of any fluid, reassemble and try starting it again. For me, it's worked without touching the gas pedal after everything's been reassembled, although it took a bit more cranking than usual (maybe 8 seconds vs only 1-2).
With the plugs out, deflooding is more effective since the engine draws in air from the intake, expels that out the plug hole, then draws some fresh air back in the plug hole and pushes it into the exhaust, resulting in more airflow to help fuel evaporation.
#13
Addicted to Braps
I am in a similar boat. Originally, my Leading 1 was misfiring and I replaced my spark plugs. When that didn't fix the issue, I ordered Napol NP Boosted GM LS G582 Conversion Kit and installed those. I started with a mock up ground on my engine bay bar mount, and it ran but not with a strong spark. Not surprising, the mock ground had paint. So I stupidly removed to ground only to kill the engine. After this, I installed the ground where the radiator ground was and the car was coughing, but running. Concerned, I shut down the car. After that, the car would not start at all. I even went to Oriely's and bought some cheap coils to fit the car and installed those. (Yes, I know these coils would likely die after only a few hundred miles.) The car will still not start. I've used a multimeter several times and checked all of my grounding solutions, and all where viable and properly connected (except the aforementioned mock ground, which had a high resistance and was insufficent. I have used the recomended method to deflood the engine and have tried pulling the fuse to the fuel pump and injectors and cranked the engine to 10 seconds twice. Still no luck.
Edit: I removed one of the leading plugs and it was covered in black as well, so I assumed it was from oil. I had started premixing since my previous change, where the spark plugs just looked...like normal wear from eveyr other engine. I did smell quite a bit of raw fuel, though. That smell made me further believe I had flooded the engine.
Edit: I removed one of the leading plugs and it was covered in black as well, so I assumed it was from oil. I had started premixing since my previous change, where the spark plugs just looked...like normal wear from eveyr other engine. I did smell quite a bit of raw fuel, though. That smell made me further believe I had flooded the engine.
Last edited by BluSpectre; 05-30-2021 at 08:39 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
racer-tom
RX-8 Parts For Sale/Wanted
2
12-16-2019 12:59 PM