Are-Ex-Eight

iTrader: (1)

Hopefully this will help other members who have been looking for a DIY oil change guide (and I apologize if one exists but I could not find a detailed one).

Oil Change Parts Required:

• Oil Filter - http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=273&page=1
• Oil Pan - Walmart
• Oil (5W-20) - Amazon.com: Royal Purple Street Synthetic Motor Oil - SAE 5w30, Quart Bottle, Pack of 12: Automotive
• RX-8 - http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/disp...RX8#/colors360

Oil Change Parts/Tools Optional:

• Fumoto Oil Plug Drain Valves (HIGHLY recommended) - [url=http://www.qwikvalve.com/F-106-14mm-1.5.html[/url]
• Funnel
• Socket Wrench with 1/2" Hex Socket
• 8 mm Alan Key
• Race Ramps - 56" Ramps - Car Ramps | Get your Car Up 8"! | Race Ramps, your best solution for Lightweight Low Profile Car Ramps!
• Chock Blocks
• Gloves
• BEvERage

Procedure:

Step 1:
Lay out race ramps on smooth even surface (sweep away any rocks or debris).
Drive up to the ramps, check to ensure even approach and readjust if needed.
Drive onto ramps put car in park (for Autos) or reverse (for manuals) and use the E-brake. Turn the car off.
Insert Chock Blocks behind wheels (as shown in Figure 1).
Lay out all needed tools/parts nearby.

Figure 1



Step 2:
Pop Hood
From underneath the car locate the silver oil sump cover and remove the 7x 1/2" hex bolts. See Figure 2 for reference:

Figure 2



Put this cover to the side for now.

Figure 3



Using gloves (as the oil may be very hot) use the 8mm alan key to remove the recessed oil plug. Be sure that your oil pan is positioned below the plug to catch all of the oil. This step will take about 5-10 minutes so go grab some shop towels and your BEvERage and take a break.

Figure 4



After all of the oil has drained from the sump, locate and remove the oil filter. Oil filter location can be seen in Figure 5.

Figure 5



This is the hardest step and I recommend picking up the same tool the technicians at the dealership use the remove this filter. If you have already gotten this far and cannot get the oil filter off then use the screwdriver method. (Not ideal as your used filter will look something like Figure 6.)

Figure 6



Essentially what you do is puncture the oil filter (use a hammer if needed) with a long screwdriver and use that as leverage to loosen the filter.

After the filter is removed lightly lube your new filter's seal with new oil. Then screw it on hand tight. (Or tighter if you have the correct oil filter wrench tool.)

Figure 7



Next, install your Fumoto oil plug (or regular OEM plug) back into the oil sump as shown in Figure 8.
*Tip from Pico - Replace the crush washer on the drain plug every or every other oil change.

Figure 8



Fill engine oil reservoir with 5-6 qt's of quality 5W-30 oil. This is where a funnel is handy.

Figure 9



Now turn on the engine for a few minutes and look for leaks (I do not recommend going under the vehicle while it is running even with the chock blocks in place.)

If leaks are found simply tighten the leaking part. If no leaks are detected turn off the engine and reinstall the oil sump cover. CAUTION the oil sump surface including the Fumoto valve if used will be hot. Use gloves if needed.

Figure 10




Oil Change Complete.

Thank you all for reading. Hopefully this helps out with changing your own oil.
Feel free to add advice/tips/tricks or PM me errors in this procedure.
This was my first time ever changing my own oil (in the RX-8).

JinDesu

iTrader: (2)

Great article!

Wrong section =pp

Are-Ex-Eight

iTrader: (1)

Yeah for some reason images don't show up in the DIY forum so I posted it here as well.

iwc3707

Great job. Nice pictorial article.

Krazed_Rx8

iTrader: (5)

Great DIY. Easy enough, the pictures really help.

CyberPitz

BEvERage made my night

REsuperD

i like the sump guard on the new cars

elysium19

iTrader: (1)

1) God it's nice to see a shiny new underside of an rx-8....

2) I REALLY love the metal undertray with real bolts, instead of stupid plastic pop-out things....

TZ250

Do you have to drop the sump cover to get to the drain plug?

Does anyone know the plug torque spec? I'm a motorcycle mechanic and fussy about torque cause I'm used to aluminum or magnesium cases.

chris__n

it looks like you might have to drop the cover to get to the oil filter, but not the drain plug.

thanks for the write up! excellent pics and detail

Are-Ex-Eight

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, just to get to the filter.

Torque - ask your dealer, I would guess 18 ft lbs as that's pretty standard for bolts on oil systems. I just crank it tight with a crescent wrench (the Fumoto valve). Not sure how you would torque this without a 8mm hex straight alan key connected to your 8mm socket on a torque wrench.


And thanks for all the comments guys, it's nice to give something back to the site that has helped me with a ton of stuff on my 8. These forums are invaluable when it comes to troubleshooting or DIY's.

kster

I posted torque specs in the duplicate thread (DIY section).

Pico

iTrader: (2)

The one thing you might want to add would be replacing the crush washer located on the drain bolt. This could be done every or every other oil change. Nonetheless, Good article

The '09 has great location's for the fill and dipstick. only took Mazda 5 years to see that checking oil was a bitch haha

Are-Ex-Eight

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I added your tip. The only thing I dislike is the location of the oil filter, if accessible from the hood I could change my oil without putting it on ramps now with the Fumoto valve.

much2saxy

I use a K&N filter because it has a 1" nut on the end. This makes it a little easier to change the oil filter.

Are-Ex-Eight

iTrader: (1)

2nd Oil Change = Done

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Don't use any aftermarket oil filter for 09+ RX-8.

the 09+ stock oil pressure is too high for EVERY aftermarket filter out there(which is around 13-17 psi). and chances are 1/2 the time your aftermarket filter will be in bypass mode = not filtering anything.

So use Stock filter for 09+ RX-8.

jasonrxeight

and also dont overfill
the oil filler neck has a secondary breath hose connected to the intake. so if you over fill, it WILL end up in the intake.

Are-Ex-Eight

iTrader: (1)

How did you notice it in your intake?

jasonrxeight

I was having a hard time starting the engine when its warm, so I pulled the MAF and found massive engine oil inside. the filter was soaked in oil too.

Are-Ex-Eight

iTrader: (1)

Wow that sucks.

Cynic09GT

Evening, all. I just finished using this DIY to complete my first self-performed oil change on the RX-8. Was really helpful.

BUT... for the benefit of other S2 owners who contemplate ordering a Fumoto Valve and run into articles here with part numbers for S1 cars, take note: The S2's oil plug, while still recessed, is on the bottom of the oil pan, whereas on the S1 it's on the bottom side of the oil pan.

That means S2 owners shouldn't try to use the recommended Fumoto adapter for the S1 (ADL-106), and if you try to use the adapter on a series 2, it will look stupid, it will stick out an inch or so beyond the metal under tray, and it will create a nasty ground clearance issue for you.

The pics in this article show both a valve with an adapter alongside it (uninstalled) and also the Fumoto valve installed without the adapter. Don't be confused -- the adapter is no good for you if you drive an S2.

The standard Fumoto valve (I ordered F106S b/c I wanted a hose nipple) fits just fine with an additional crush washer used as a spacer. So far no leaks. I will watch the valve carefully for signs of leakage and update this thread if I have any problems.

Oh, and I also found the dealer installed an S1 filter the last time they did an oil change on this car. What's up with that? Make sure you're using the right filter for the S2 also (Mazda Genuine, part number N3R1-14-302). If you want to know why, just search.

- C.

Strigidae

I couldn't find anywhere to put this information so I think this thread is most appropriate. I, unfortunately, had the ring on my dipstick break off. I don't know why but it did. I dont wish that on anyone. It sucks. It was IMPOSSIBLE to find the part number here since I know that buying it online is cheaper but I couldn't find the right one, so I went ahead and bought it from the dealer. The part number for a Series 2 Renesis oil dipstick is N3R1-10-450B. Hopefully this helps anyone that might encounter a broken dipstick.

simsim99

I was going to try to do a quick oil change myself instead of the dealer this time on my 2010 RX8. I see from the explanations there is that metal cover that must be removed. So I don't have ramps or anything so I was hoping to just reach under and remove the plug and let it drain.
So since the plug is there in the opening of the metal cover is there any reason I couldn't just remove the plug without taking off the metal cover? I know I can reach it as I just tried.
Or would that be a bad idea?
And just reaching underneath with the metal cover on would I have any chance of getting the plug back on?
Lastly is the plug just an 8mm allen bolt?
Thanks for any help if there is still anyone out there reading this thread.

speed7

You have to take off the cover to get to the oil filter unfortunately. I wouldn't take it off without ramps or on jacks. It is fairly deep into the car and that area is very tight.