DIY: Clutch-Brake Line Replacement Bleeding
#1
DIY: Clutch-Brake Line Replacement Bleeding
This isn't really a guide, because the series 1 clutch guide and brake guide works great. There are a couple differences:
1) The clutch bleed nipple is in the same place, but the oil filter has moved. At least I think this is the case from pictures, I don't have an S1 to check. But, since it was a PITA to find, here's some help. First, it's in the back of the engine compartment above the transmission. Second, it's a total PITA to get to from either side. I couldn't get at it at all, but my wife's hands were small enough too reach from the top. The attached picture was taken from the top of the engine, you can see the dipstick in the bottom and the new clutch line in the back. The blurry screw with a rubber dust cap is the bleed valve.
2) You'll want to buy a speed bleeder. From the top, you can't see the drain tube with your hand in there.
3) The brake lines and clutch lines from S1 fit S2. You need an 8mm line wrench to bleed the front brakes, but if you can't find one just use a closed end wrench just put it on the valve before you put the clear tube on.
4) Don't wear nice jeans or your wife will be mad at you.
5) Don't let the brake fluid empty out or you'll have to bench bleed the master cylinder. This sucks and risks making a mess out of the engine compartment. Just check the fluid, trust me it's easier.
1) The clutch bleed nipple is in the same place, but the oil filter has moved. At least I think this is the case from pictures, I don't have an S1 to check. But, since it was a PITA to find, here's some help. First, it's in the back of the engine compartment above the transmission. Second, it's a total PITA to get to from either side. I couldn't get at it at all, but my wife's hands were small enough too reach from the top. The attached picture was taken from the top of the engine, you can see the dipstick in the bottom and the new clutch line in the back. The blurry screw with a rubber dust cap is the bleed valve.
2) You'll want to buy a speed bleeder. From the top, you can't see the drain tube with your hand in there.
3) The brake lines and clutch lines from S1 fit S2. You need an 8mm line wrench to bleed the front brakes, but if you can't find one just use a closed end wrench just put it on the valve before you put the clear tube on.
4) Don't wear nice jeans or your wife will be mad at you.
5) Don't let the brake fluid empty out or you'll have to bench bleed the master cylinder. This sucks and risks making a mess out of the engine compartment. Just check the fluid, trust me it's easier.
#2
Super Moderator
Thanks for the info...I guess
BUT, apart from Series 2 not have the Oil Filter on top rear engine area like Series 1, the clutch lines, clutch system, slave and master cylinder are exactly the same as Series 1....so...
And yes, I have a SS speed bleeder on my Slave Cylinder.
BUT, apart from Series 2 not have the Oil Filter on top rear engine area like Series 1, the clutch lines, clutch system, slave and master cylinder are exactly the same as Series 1....so...
And yes, I have a SS speed bleeder on my Slave Cylinder.
#4
Super Moderator
You are always welcome to do more if your wish
#6
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Okay, guys...where in the heck is that bleed nipple for the clutch fluid? I checked the picture above, looked 3 times with my light and couldn't find it. I have a 2011 Sport. I looked super close, farther away, and everything in between and could swear that it's not there. Maybe there's no way to explain it and I have to be shown, but figured I'd ask anyway.
#7
Super Moderator
Look under the Bonnet (Hood), Clutch Slave Cylinder and it's Bleeding Nipple is on top of the Bell Housing/Rear end RE Iron, LEFT Side as one sits in car.
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