To me a 'Bolt' is one which has a fine even thread...and a 'Screw' is one that has a much wider spaced thread or tap. :)

Well there's another definition that has no basis. There are fine and course threads on both. On top of that there are lots of other threads like "acme" and "pipe" then you of course have metric and "whitworth" there are square threads and diametrical pitch, ETC.
There are wood screws, sheetmetal and Lag. If I sit here long enough I will think of more. It's called "Mental Masterbation."
Let's look it up in Machinerys handbook. That way oversized book is the best sorce of such info.

Of course you could say that "bolt" is what my ex did when she left with all my money. "Screw" would then be what California lets them do. :wallbash:

bolts have nuts. without nuts you're screwed.

Just wondering is there another means to purchase with shipping to australia. Surely the 12.50 you charge when i click to pay through paypal isnt sufficient

Go ahead and click it, I think you'll find it works. USPS flat fee packages are real money savers. It usually takes a week to get it.

Stickers? :) that's all I can afford now! Hehe

Bolts require wrenches and screws require screwdrivers.

Not so, Joe.
Look it up.
There are "hex head cap screws" and "allen head cap screws" etc, etc.
They become bolts only when they get a nut.

They've been calling them head bolts for so long everyone thinks that's what they are. Even the factory is doing it, but it's not right.

'Twas but a rule of thumb that I remembered from childhood. There are many instances that do not apply to the rules of thumb, such as the ones you mentioned in addition to others. Many machine screws require nuts, for example but, they are still called screws. It's is merely a matter of semantics. As Shakespeare once wrote, "would a rose by any other name not smell as sweet?".

Yeah, a 'bolt' also has a threaded nut (even when the nut may be welded to say a body panel, it is still a bolt, a 'screw' does not have any nuts....so simple.

Not so simple, ASH8. As I have stated before, there are many instances where that rule does not apply; examples being: lead screws, ball screws, roller screws, grub screws, lag bolts, washer head license plate retainer screws, hinge bolts and many more screws that implement the use of nuts of various type and design and bolts that do not.

Still no stickers?

any of you guys use a Syncro saver with the S2 AFss?

I think I have seen pictures of someone who did Pimon.

ive posted this in the DIY install thread but thought I may as well ask it here since it may be more apropriate here anyway.

I have an S1 8 with the S2 trans swap and an S2 AFSS. just go around to installing it recently and the shifter does not have the "spring" action of going up and down to engage reverse. it can go up and down but I have to pull it up and it slowly sinks back in to the down position. anyone else have this issue and maybe a remedy to fix it?

Like I said in the other thread, send it back. Now that you say it sinks back down by itself, I wonder if it's a broken spring. Whatever it is we fix it for life so there is no problem other then you'll be without it a few days. We send it back the same day we get it.

I know why it does this. I had the same problem. That Teflon bushing (cylinder) is on the shaft where the reverse pin travels up and down. The design of it is such that the pin protrudes out, and gets caught on the Teflon bushing. You have to align everything so it doesn't go over that part. It was driving me nuts for a while, but that was the issue. If you need more help, let me know.

The spring is most likely not the issue.

If you leave it that way, I will GUARANTEE you will go into reverse instead of first at a stop light :hahano:.

Let me know what you find!

Any new updates regarding on the rattle noise, problems with going into reverse? From all ss user?

Well, I am not sure the Teflon tape is really helping with the vibration and whine through the shifter, especially when the knob is held.

With regards to going into reverse, as long as you align everything just right, it shouldn't be an issue. You just have to be cautious that you are in first and not reverse if you are heavy with your arm during that first throw.

Overall, I like the feel the AFE SS gives, but I am not sure I am ok with all the downsides for the upsides. Quick shifting is a major plus (1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th), but my 2nd to 3rd is very picky since it has to align just right or it will miss.

Just my thoughts, let me know if you want more info from me.

I've had no issues with mine. My only "issue" is it is not as short a throw as I expected. Shorter than stock, but not wrist flick short. Very well built, no rattles with mine. The whine is common among all short shifters I have experienced (UUC in BMW's does the same). It makes it sound more like a racecar :)

There is finally a replacment part that will help the rattle.
I made a limited number of these and if you're the original owner you may have it for free. If there are some left over they will be available for $34.00 Plus shipping.
These are a replacment for the upper bearing race. The grey funnel shaped part on top of the shifter. You don't have to remove the shifter to put it in. Just pull off the white boot bushing.
Write me at: rap@axialflow.com for ordering.

I was just wondering if you were still by any chance slowly working on your AFSC?

There is 1 S2 shifter left, there will be no more.

My email: axcharg@socal.rr.com

Richard, do you still have the updated upper bearing race? Is there a fix for the weak spring on the reverse lock out?

Was this a reported issue with some S2 builds? Mine is as strong as day 1.