Yes, another coilovers thread.
Yes, another coilovers thread.
I usually hang out in the interior, audio & electronics forum, but now I need you suspension freaks' help. I have been around a while so don't throw the "search button" BS at me.
I finally threw down for some new Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3s. I knew my alignment was wack, but didn't realize I wasn't going to be able to fix it. As a few other people have complained, my driver rear is about 1/2" lower than the passenger measured from wheel center line to fender as Mazda recommends & slightly less difference between frame measurements as the suspension gurus recommend.
The problem is that the passenger side 3/4" lower than Mazda's lowest tolerance putting the driver's side about 1 1/4" too low. The best we could do on the driver's side is -2.3 camber which we matched on the passenger. Unfortunately, this will eat my new tires too. The front height, camber & toe is perfect as well as the rear toe.
I have RB springs that are supposed to lower the car .5". RB says the springs can't be the problem, but I don't know what else it could be. I have verified nearly every recommendation in other threads (correct part # in front & rear, springs seated properly, no apparent damage, etc.) The only thing I haven't done is loosen all the suspension and retighten while on the ground. I see how this would fix a "too high" problem, but not my "too low" problem. Please speak up if I am wrong on this. I do have probably about 100lbs of speakers etc. in the trunk, but I am assuming this should not make that much difference.
So now the reason for this thread. I think buying new springs would fix the droop, but it seems that I will need coilovers or some sort of cheesy spacer (I don't think so) to fix the side to side difference that has driven me crazy since day one.
As of now, I have the RB Springs, Sway Bars & End Links. I do not track, but probably will in the future. I also like a little spirited driving on the street. I am not cheap, but I am not rich either and I definitely don't like doing things twice.
Right now I am leaning towards the KW V3 (especially w/ the Group Buy price). A close second is the Tein Monoflex then the Flex. I don't like the color of any of them, but I do like the possibility of adding a controller in the future.
Any EDUCATED advice, input or recommendations in this general price range (under about $2000) is appreciated.
Thanks,
Doyle
I finally threw down for some new Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3s. I knew my alignment was wack, but didn't realize I wasn't going to be able to fix it. As a few other people have complained, my driver rear is about 1/2" lower than the passenger measured from wheel center line to fender as Mazda recommends & slightly less difference between frame measurements as the suspension gurus recommend.
The problem is that the passenger side 3/4" lower than Mazda's lowest tolerance putting the driver's side about 1 1/4" too low. The best we could do on the driver's side is -2.3 camber which we matched on the passenger. Unfortunately, this will eat my new tires too. The front height, camber & toe is perfect as well as the rear toe.
I have RB springs that are supposed to lower the car .5". RB says the springs can't be the problem, but I don't know what else it could be. I have verified nearly every recommendation in other threads (correct part # in front & rear, springs seated properly, no apparent damage, etc.) The only thing I haven't done is loosen all the suspension and retighten while on the ground. I see how this would fix a "too high" problem, but not my "too low" problem. Please speak up if I am wrong on this. I do have probably about 100lbs of speakers etc. in the trunk, but I am assuming this should not make that much difference.
So now the reason for this thread. I think buying new springs would fix the droop, but it seems that I will need coilovers or some sort of cheesy spacer (I don't think so) to fix the side to side difference that has driven me crazy since day one.
As of now, I have the RB Springs, Sway Bars & End Links. I do not track, but probably will in the future. I also like a little spirited driving on the street. I am not cheap, but I am not rich either and I definitely don't like doing things twice.
Right now I am leaning towards the KW V3 (especially w/ the Group Buy price). A close second is the Tein Monoflex then the Flex. I don't like the color of any of them, but I do like the possibility of adding a controller in the future.
Any EDUCATED advice, input or recommendations in this general price range (under about $2000) is appreciated.
Thanks,
Doyle
Last edited by jstkilntim; Feb 18, 2008 at 10:10 PM.
I usually hang out in the interior, audio & electronics forum, but now I need you suspension freaks' help. I have been around a while so don't throw the "search button" BS at me.
I finally threw down for some new Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3s. I knew my alignment was wack, but didn't realize I wasn't going to be able to fix it. As a few other people have complained, my driver rear is about 1/2" lower than the passenger measured from wheel center line to fender as Mazda recommends & slightly less difference between frame measurements as the suspension gurus recommend.
The problem is that the passenger side 3/4" lower than Mazda's lowest tolerance putting the driver's side about 1 1/2" too low. The best we could do on the driver's side is -2.3 camber which we matched on the passenger. Unfortunately, this will eat my new tires too. The front height, camber & toe is perfect as well as the rear toe.
I have RB springs that are supposed to lower the car .5". RB says the springs can't be the problem, but I don't know what else it could be. I have verified nearly every recommendation in other threads (correct part # in front & rear, springs seated properly, no apparent damage, etc.) The only thing I haven't done is loosen all the suspension and retighten while on the ground. I see how this would fix a "too high" problem, but not my "too low" problem. Please speak up if I am wrong on this. I do have probably about 100lbs of speakers etc. in the trunk, but I am assuming this should not make that much difference.
So now the reason for this thread. I think buying new springs would fix the droop, but it seems that I will need coilovers or some sort of cheesy spacer (I don't think so) to fix the side to side difference that has driven me crazy since day one.
As of now, I have the RB Springs, Sway Bars & End Links. I do not track, but probably will in the future. I also like a little spirited driving on the street. I am not cheap, but I am not rich either and I definitely don't like doing things twice.
Right now I am leaning towards the KW V3 (especially w/ the Group Buy price). A close second is the Tein Monoflex then the Flex. I don't like the color of any of them, but I do like the possibility of adding a controller in the future.
Any EDUCATED advice, input or recommendations in this general price range (under about $2000) is appreciated.
Thanks,
Doyle
I finally threw down for some new Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3s. I knew my alignment was wack, but didn't realize I wasn't going to be able to fix it. As a few other people have complained, my driver rear is about 1/2" lower than the passenger measured from wheel center line to fender as Mazda recommends & slightly less difference between frame measurements as the suspension gurus recommend.
The problem is that the passenger side 3/4" lower than Mazda's lowest tolerance putting the driver's side about 1 1/2" too low. The best we could do on the driver's side is -2.3 camber which we matched on the passenger. Unfortunately, this will eat my new tires too. The front height, camber & toe is perfect as well as the rear toe.
I have RB springs that are supposed to lower the car .5". RB says the springs can't be the problem, but I don't know what else it could be. I have verified nearly every recommendation in other threads (correct part # in front & rear, springs seated properly, no apparent damage, etc.) The only thing I haven't done is loosen all the suspension and retighten while on the ground. I see how this would fix a "too high" problem, but not my "too low" problem. Please speak up if I am wrong on this. I do have probably about 100lbs of speakers etc. in the trunk, but I am assuming this should not make that much difference.
So now the reason for this thread. I think buying new springs would fix the droop, but it seems that I will need coilovers or some sort of cheesy spacer (I don't think so) to fix the side to side difference that has driven me crazy since day one.
As of now, I have the RB Springs, Sway Bars & End Links. I do not track, but probably will in the future. I also like a little spirited driving on the street. I am not cheap, but I am not rich either and I definitely don't like doing things twice.
Right now I am leaning towards the KW V3 (especially w/ the Group Buy price). A close second is the Tein Monoflex then the Flex. I don't like the color of any of them, but I do like the possibility of adding a controller in the future.
Any EDUCATED advice, input or recommendations in this general price range (under about $2000) is appreciated.
Thanks,
Doyle
Last edited by SouthFL; Feb 18, 2008 at 11:37 AM.
This makes a big impact. Just unloading a set of 4 tires (200lbs) from the back seat makes a huge difference. Even a tank full of fuel makes a difference. Your alignment settings are strange as well- the range should be fixable with a proper alignment based on your mods. What condition are your dampers in?
No apparent damage to the dampers. Other than damage, I don't think they would change ride height anyway, would they?
Thanks again.
the OE shocks are high gas pressure monotube (and not the best quality)
if one or more of them loses gas pressure it will impact ride height on that corner with some impact on the other corners
if one or more of them loses gas pressure it will impact ride height on that corner with some impact on the other corners
I see that you use a more custom setup, but for my situation and budget, would you lean towards the KW or something else?
Thanks
Is there and easy way to test them to see if they are the problem. I guess if I have to replace them, I might as well go w/ the coilovers. I would hate to buy non height adjustable shocks & still have the difference in the driver & passenger side. It drives me crazy every time I look at my car from the back. Doesn't seem like 1/2" would be such an eyesore, but I can't help it.
So it seems like everyone posting either has the KW or would recommend the KW for what I want to spend.
So it seems like everyone posting either has the KW or would recommend the KW for what I want to spend.
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