If you went from oem to Hawk pads, it's likely you just have uneven pad transfer on the rotors...Hawk pads are notorious for being incompatible with other pad compounds. If so, you can resurface the rotors using 130 grit garnet paper and should be good to go...although you will have to bed the pads again, of course. DO NOT have the rotors turned, there's not enough material to do it effectively.

Here's a good read for anyone having brake shudder or squealing issues:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

 

I always used torque wrench on lug nuts but not calipers.

Forgive the obvious question, but did you replace the rotors? If your brakes were shuddering because of warped / worn rotors, then the best pads in the world aren't going to make that go away. When you replaced the rotors (hopefully) did you make sure to hit the new ones with brake cleaner to get the protective oil or greasy hand smudges off?

 

Ok...so after reading you guys' comments..I came to conclusion that me not using torque wrench to tighten the calipers' bolts might not be the case.
I forgot to mention earlier that.....I didn't get the rotors turned when I replaced the pads....I looked at them and they looked ok...so I decided not to that time..I just cleaned them up and sanded them a bit to get the dirt off....so maybe that was the case..maybe the rotors really needed to get resurfaced.....

 

if its shuttering you will most likely need new rotors. i know mine werent able to be turned due to thickness.. I suggested that site rotorpros.com. check them out. I am very happy with the set I got so far.

 

My DBAs were about $140 each. Not the super duper ones mind you, but a great stock replacement rotor.

 

is the shudder that everyone is referring to the ABS kicking in?

 

No.

Just normal warped/worn rotor wear. It's a maintenance part.

 

Does ABS only kick in during hard braking? I thought it kicked in everytime you applied brakes?? Cuz mine only shudder and make a weird noise only during hard braking.....like applying brakes to sudden stop at around 45-50 mph (front only).

 

ABS is only activated when the ECU senses a difference in wheel speed and stutters the brakes very quickly to keep them from locking up. Works great and only happens under very hard braking or on wet roads with moderate to hard braking.

 

Rotors don't warp. And, shuddering is not caused by rotor wear, but by pad material build up on the rotor...the only thing anyone has said that is really accurate is that, typically, you won't have enough material on a new, lightweight rotor to be able to actually turn the rotor and maintain minimum thickness.

I linked the Stoptech white paper on the "Warped Rotor Myth" above, which is the quickest read to get to the tech behind shuddering or squealing brakes. If anyone's really interested, I can get some SAE stuff to add to the discussion...

 

Hmm..you know that might be it cuz it only happens under hard braking. Does it make some soft weird noise when it applies??

 

Crafted Soul, ABS is pretty obvious. You will feel it as a fast mechanical pulsing in the brake peddle itself. It's very different from the more violent shaking that WARPED rotors exhibit when applying the brakes even moderately from a highway type speed.

Mwood, play with wording all you want. The characterization of "warped" rotors is only fixed by either machining existing or replacing rotors.

Unsubscribing.

 

Are you serious? Playing "with wording"?

Your use of the term "warped" is wrong, inaccurate and misleading. Further, the symptoms experienced by the OP may very well not require "either machining existing or replacing rotors"...