Ride height issue.
Ride height issue.
I currently have MeisterR Coilovers (Probably that same as the Megan Racing ones or BC) with the rears maxxed out, so the car should be low BUT i have the car stripped out with stiffer springs both of these makes the rear sit so high.

Is anyone one else having the same issues with a stripped car an increased spring rates?
Thanks.

Is anyone one else having the same issues with a stripped car an increased spring rates?
Thanks.
if they are 'like' BC or Megan, they should NOT be preloaded unless you are corner balancing...
Exactly how stiff did you go in the rear...
edit: please tell me you aren't seriously using 10k in the rear
Exactly how stiff did you go in the rear...
edit: please tell me you aren't seriously using 10k in the rear
Yes, only a little though. I've compressed the spring around 5mm of it's overall length. (they came like this so i have just copied.)
As above, and yes I am using 10k springs on the rear. What's the problem?
As above, and yes I am using 10k springs on the rear. What's the problem?
any specific reason why you are running such a high spring rate (actually well over the max that companies like FCM recommend) in the rear and such a low spring ratio between the front and back? That stiff of a spring rate could be causing the issue.
The only other thing would be that your control arm bushings are binding but that would only be the case if you disconnected the control arms, or loosened their cam bolts while you were putting on the new springs.
The only other thing would be that your control arm bushings are binding but that would only be the case if you disconnected the control arms, or loosened their cam bolts while you were putting on the new springs.
any specific reason why you are running such a high spring rate (actually well over the max that companies like FCM recommend) in the rear and such a low spring ratio between the front and back? That stiff of a spring rate could be causing the issue.
The only other thing would be that your control arm bushings are binding but that would only be the case if you disconnected the control arms, or loosened their cam bolts while you were putting on the new springs.
The only other thing would be that your control arm bushings are binding but that would only be the case if you disconnected the control arms, or loosened their cam bolts while you were putting on the new springs.
It's not that, i think it's the actual coilover, the spring and damper is under the car unlike high end coilovers which have the spring at the bottom and the damper in the middle/top (like the OE strut)
I wanted to see if anyone with a high end coilover is having the same problem as me.
10k in the rear?
Holy ****. What tuned cars are you running? I know of track 8's running Motons and they are typically at like 12k front and 5k rear. Most other "high end" kits run a 9k front and 6k rear on a street car setup. I am running 9k front and 6k rear Swift springs. But those rates on shitty coilovers seem nuts. Even my Stance coilovers are crap, I would never track on them.
Holy ****. What tuned cars are you running? I know of track 8's running Motons and they are typically at like 12k front and 5k rear. Most other "high end" kits run a 9k front and 6k rear on a street car setup. I am running 9k front and 6k rear Swift springs. But those rates on shitty coilovers seem nuts. Even my Stance coilovers are crap, I would never track on them.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; May 30, 2013 at 03:52 PM.
Oh, and either way that should not affect ride height (if it is the proper sized spring) that much at it's lowest setting, something else is wrong. But suspension is all about the combination of components, just just one area. But if it handles well for you then leave it. It looks like a tracked car, why cheap out of coilovers when you have other legitimate parts like the MS kit, wheels, wing, etc?
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; May 30, 2013 at 04:11 PM.
As you said, on street cars. Street cars have a lower spring rate for comfort - I don't need comfort.
RE-Amemiya do two sets of coilovers, street (8k front 5k rear) and race (14k front and 10k rear)
Revolution coilovers are 12k front and 6k rear. on there demo car they use 18k front and 10k rear (triple rotor)
Leg motorsport has 14k front and 12k rear.
Second post -
The coilovers was the first thing i bought for the car - way before I decided to turn it into a track car. it was my daily at the time and i bought something cheap.
RE-Amemiya do two sets of coilovers, street (8k front 5k rear) and race (14k front and 10k rear)
Revolution coilovers are 12k front and 6k rear. on there demo car they use 18k front and 10k rear (triple rotor)
Leg motorsport has 14k front and 12k rear.
Second post -
The coilovers was the first thing i bought for the car - way before I decided to turn it into a track car. it was my daily at the time and i bought something cheap.
Last edited by Dan507; May 30, 2013 at 04:10 PM.
Yes, but on much better dampners. I doubt a shock dyno even exists of yours. But the stiffer springs in the rear could just be too stiff and holding up the rear but I bet there is more to the story, I have seen plenty of track cars with really stiff rates (Koni challenge cars) and they sat low. Try and add a **** load of preload to the spring
compares RE-A, RevoJ, and Leg to garbage coilovers ...smh
not to mention those coilovers you are running are more than likely not valved for such an aggressive spring rate....
anyway....
not to mention those coilovers you are running are more than likely not valved for such an aggressive spring rate....
anyway....
Yes, but on much better dampners. I doubt a shock dyno even exists of yours. But the stiffer springs in the rear could just be too stiff and holding up the rear but I bet there is more to the story, I have seen plenty of track cars with really stiff rates (Koni challenge cars) and they sat low. Try and add a **** load of preload to the spring 

I think you're right. I know mine are cheap and I'm not trying to defend them. i also thing its the design of them to. decent coilovers look like this

The strut goes all the way up and uses the oe top mount which bolts into the chassis.
mine are these.

everything sits under the top mount thus making the whole thing longer which makes the whole car sit higher.
Advice rather an criticism would be appreciated.
hold on a second ....
The rears on those coilovers are progressive rate springs, not linear
sorry if you think i am criticizing but something just doesn't seem right with your setup all around ... it is more of a safety issue
The rears on those coilovers are progressive rate springs, not linear
sorry if you think i am criticizing but something just doesn't seem right with your setup all around ... it is more of a safety issue
Sorry, that photo was just for illustration. that's with the old 6k spring. The new 10k spring is linear.
It's alright. It just seems like you're ganging up on me lol.
What are you running for bars?
I would think that 12K front and 10K rears with less than ideal damping would make the car more than a bit tail happy....but really the proof is in the way the car handles...
I would think that 12K front and 10K rears with less than ideal damping would make the car more than a bit tail happy....but really the proof is in the way the car handles...
Gotcha, so you replaced the rear progressive spring, with a linear spring? Chances are that linear spring is longer than the old one too right? between that and the stiffer rate, that could be recipe for your rear height issue.
Stock bars. i didn't feel like i need stiffer ones.
You're right. it's quite tail happy at low speeds but at high the wing does it's job and keeps the rear planted but it's caught me out a few times.
I going to see about getting some HSD's (powertrix) with a change of spring rates (i'll try 12 front and 9/8 on the rear) unless anyone advises otherwise.
You're right. it's quite tail happy at low speeds but at high the wing does it's job and keeps the rear planted but it's caught me out a few times.
I going to see about getting some HSD's (powertrix) with a change of spring rates (i'll try 12 front and 9/8 on the rear) unless anyone advises otherwise.
That is if you are serious about tracking. Otherwise you probably cannot go wrong with a set of KW, Bilsteins, or Ohlins. Not sure what works out price wise for you over there. Basically you want something that is actually shock dynoed and valved for the RX-8. But custom setups can get pricey.


