Racing brake stainless lines & 17" winter/tire rims.
#1
Racing brake stainless lines & 17" winter/tire rims.
I had a set of Racing Brake stainless steel braided lines installed last night. After driving around for a couple of miles today, I checked the clearance of the lines against the inner rim and noticed that when the wheels were turned in either direction, they made contact.
I managed to push the lines further back on the retainer clips which looks to have resolved the clearance issue. But the rubber/plastic coating on the lines looks to have been scored where the contact was made, exposing a small (.5") section of the stainless steel braid.
Question is.. should I worry about these exposed sections? should I wrap in duct tape maybe ?
I managed to push the lines further back on the retainer clips which looks to have resolved the clearance issue. But the rubber/plastic coating on the lines looks to have been scored where the contact was made, exposing a small (.5") section of the stainless steel braid.
Question is.. should I worry about these exposed sections? should I wrap in duct tape maybe ?
#3
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
Can you please post up a picture of your install because I can only conclude that they aren't installed properly. There's no way for my RacingBrake brake lines to rub on a 14" wheel, let alone a 17" wheel. When installed properly everything is contained under the Sport brake rotor diameter which is 12.8". No matter how far in either direction I pull the brake line tight in it does not go outside the rotor diameter. You either have the caliper end and/or the control arm clip connected in the wrong direction.
.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 03-20-2010 at 10:45 PM.
#5
is adjusting valve lash
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^^
that IS the correct install, BUT, it still can get burnt from making U-turns due to tire contact.
when i'm running on my 17x9.5, i cured it by clipping another clamp 2 inches back from the included bracket to the upper arm.
you have to notice that the SS lines are so stiff, it does not flex easily and moves alot when wheels are turned. the oem rubber lines don't have this problem, and bends/flex quite easily.
that IS the correct install, BUT, it still can get burnt from making U-turns due to tire contact.
when i'm running on my 17x9.5, i cured it by clipping another clamp 2 inches back from the included bracket to the upper arm.
you have to notice that the SS lines are so stiff, it does not flex easily and moves alot when wheels are turned. the oem rubber lines don't have this problem, and bends/flex quite easily.
#6
is adjusting valve lash
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I had a set of Racing Brake stainless steel braided lines installed last night. After driving around for a couple of miles today, I checked the clearance of the lines against the inner rim and noticed that when the wheels were turned in either direction, they made contact.
I managed to push the lines further back on the retainer clips which looks to have resolved the clearance issue. But the rubber/plastic coating on the lines looks to have been scored where the contact was made, exposing a small (.5") section of the stainless steel braid.
Question is.. should I worry about these exposed sections? should I wrap in duct tape maybe ?
I managed to push the lines further back on the retainer clips which looks to have resolved the clearance issue. But the rubber/plastic coating on the lines looks to have been scored where the contact was made, exposing a small (.5") section of the stainless steel braid.
Question is.. should I worry about these exposed sections? should I wrap in duct tape maybe ?
#7
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^^
that IS the correct install, BUT, it still can get burnt from making U-turns due to tire contact.
when i'm running on my 17x9.5, i cured it by clipping another clamp 2 inches back from the included bracket to the upper arm.
you have to notice that the SS lines are so stiff, it does not flex easily and moves alot when wheels are turned. the oem rubber lines don't have this problem, and bends/flex quite easily.
that IS the correct install, BUT, it still can get burnt from making U-turns due to tire contact.
when i'm running on my 17x9.5, i cured it by clipping another clamp 2 inches back from the included bracket to the upper arm.
you have to notice that the SS lines are so stiff, it does not flex easily and moves alot when wheels are turned. the oem rubber lines don't have this problem, and bends/flex quite easily.
#8
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
I can post pics of the wheel at full lock, still don't agree with the need to do anything other than install them properly
and when are you're wheels ever at full lock except during parking or the odd U-turn? If you can burn a hole in your brake lines doing this then you are doomed for life anyway ....
and when are you're wheels ever at full lock except during parking or the odd U-turn? If you can burn a hole in your brake lines doing this then you are doomed for life anyway ....
#10
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