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Lug Nut Torque Setting

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Old 04-23-2011, 01:38 PM
  #26  
wcs
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Originally Posted by alz0rz
Aye. My little cordless impact wrench is rated up to 200 ft/lbs. Couple of seconds of that and I call it a day. Then again I do have aftermarket lug nuts as well.
LOL that's hilarious.
I wouldn't want to be in the unlucky position of changing a flat tire without air tools or a large johnson bar around.

Rrrrrrrr - rat-tat-tat-tat .... click 200 lb/ft perfect next
Old 04-23-2011, 01:41 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by wcs
LOL that's hilarious.
I wouldn't want to be in the unlucky position of changing a flat tire without air tools or a large johnson bar around.

Rrrrrrrr - rat-tat-tat-tat .... click 200 lb/ft perfect next
I do carry a breaker bar around .. and yes I don't think this an advisable practice.. but with the absence of a torque wrench this is how I've made do for years.

Last edited by alz0rz; 04-23-2011 at 01:43 PM.
Old 04-26-2011, 03:12 PM
  #28  
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Use the factory setting of 65-87 ft lbs unless you car falls in the VIN range of the TSB AND you have the sound. Mazda would have came up with a solution at the assembly line after that. There is a reason a VIN range and model year is provided in TSBs.
Old 04-27-2011, 06:51 AM
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^ 108 lb-ft. See TSB in post no. 4.
Old 02-14-2016, 11:32 AM
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Sorry for bumping an ultra old post. but please note that the TSB states to REMOVE lubrication, then use 108 ft-lb.

as such, If there are individual out there that lubricate their studs before tightening, please use the lower 85 ft-lb as to not snap the studs. the frictional k factor can fall from a .25 to a .19ish which will spell that difference.

108 ft-lb is probably a safe point to put it taking into account bad contact and thread but not to break the bolt if everything is perfect. lubing it will shoot it past this safe point. a lubed 108 ft-lb would be like doing about 130 ft-lb dry. (I did not crank math, but yah.. it's a lot of difference)
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