koni sports and tein H's installed
11-27-2005, 09:47 AM
#1
koni sports and tein H's installed
I finally did it. Got my stuff from DPE(great guys-good service--highly recommend--good price and their experience is free) parked the car in the driveway and when about it. Points:
1- without any power tools this is a labor intensive job. Let me repeat --labor intensive. But do able.
2- End result is GREAT.
3- Koni's instructions suck--big time-- almost like flying blind--thanks to dpe with the help. I was also very disappointed thhat I had to go and buy a 12mm drill to drill out the front bump stop washers/caps (why couldn't they provide those--Jeez) AND had to drill out one of the Koni provided spacers(a little hard *** metal tube) before it would fit. One fit the other didn't. Come on Koni get your act together. Between having to stop and go get the correct drill and having to do this without benefit of a vise etc this added a good 1 1/2hrs to my install time.
4- coil spring compressors where designed by a mid evil torturer
5- the DIY on this forum is once again--invaluable.
7- There is no way that the rear koni sport can be made adjustable without removing it from the car as you have to substansually compress the shock to change the settings-(unless someone knows something i dont)
All that said- the stuff is on the car. The drop is as expected (sorry no pictures--besides there are plenty of pictures already available). The ride is noticeably more firm even with the front koni's on soft. The rears are set one click more firm from full soft. It is not uncomfortable.
I took care with my alignment settings but already notice that car drives differant and a alignment (grand turismo racing alignment) will occur in a couple of weeks.
To me the fronts were just as time consuming as the rears to install.
The handling is more precise but the real test will come on the track .
Oh by the way I have the RB sways on --thats why i went with the Tein h's vs the s's.
I didnt relaize that a little over an inch drop would make me have to drop my old butt so much further before I hit the seat! But the 8 with my enki rpf-1 wheels 18x8 with 35 offset and the suspenion drop now has the look it is suppose too.
Olddragger
1- without any power tools this is a labor intensive job. Let me repeat --labor intensive. But do able.
2- End result is GREAT.
3- Koni's instructions suck--big time-- almost like flying blind--thanks to dpe with the help. I was also very disappointed thhat I had to go and buy a 12mm drill to drill out the front bump stop washers/caps (why couldn't they provide those--Jeez) AND had to drill out one of the Koni provided spacers(a little hard *** metal tube) before it would fit. One fit the other didn't. Come on Koni get your act together. Between having to stop and go get the correct drill and having to do this without benefit of a vise etc this added a good 1 1/2hrs to my install time.
4- coil spring compressors where designed by a mid evil torturer
5- the DIY on this forum is once again--invaluable.
7- There is no way that the rear koni sport can be made adjustable without removing it from the car as you have to substansually compress the shock to change the settings-(unless someone knows something i dont)
All that said- the stuff is on the car. The drop is as expected (sorry no pictures--besides there are plenty of pictures already available). The ride is noticeably more firm even with the front koni's on soft. The rears are set one click more firm from full soft. It is not uncomfortable.
I took care with my alignment settings but already notice that car drives differant and a alignment (grand turismo racing alignment) will occur in a couple of weeks.
To me the fronts were just as time consuming as the rears to install.
The handling is more precise but the real test will come on the track .
Oh by the way I have the RB sways on --thats why i went with the Tein h's vs the s's.
I didnt relaize that a little over an inch drop would make me have to drop my old butt so much further before I hit the seat! But the 8 with my enki rpf-1 wheels 18x8 with 35 offset and the suspenion drop now has the look it is suppose too.
Olddragger
11-27-2005, 11:48 AM
#5
Guys,
Sorry no pics of my install but I would be glad to direct anyone to the threads/pics i used to make my decisions and to do my driveway install. It's no differance from them except a few of my own verbal responses to some unforseen problems. I will say this. if you plan on diy do your homework before you begin.
It is a lot of car bonding time but you cant but help notice a lot of things when you spend time under your car. I know how to save 10lbs --right now--- off the weight of the car.
I really would like to take the car on the track right now. I think I can say the trailbraking happy tail is now much better under control and I sure can feel the damping of the shocks and on one long interstate entry where my front end used to get a little light--it doesnt anymore! I'm satisfied with the suspenion now if only this pain medication will work.
Any of my Ga club buddies that are interested in diy, I would be gald to help. I learned a lot.
I think my combo of rb sways, tein h's and the koni sports are the most cost effective way to go. It gave me the extra drop that I wanted that RB springs dont, but they are not to stiff so they dont over compensate the sways. The Kon'is give the much needed damping and they match up with the springs well. The entire package is around $1000 (rb sways with end links(already had on the car), koni's and teins)
Besides they are pretty.
olddragger
Sorry no pics of my install but I would be glad to direct anyone to the threads/pics i used to make my decisions and to do my driveway install. It's no differance from them except a few of my own verbal responses to some unforseen problems. I will say this. if you plan on diy do your homework before you begin.
It is a lot of car bonding time but you cant but help notice a lot of things when you spend time under your car. I know how to save 10lbs --right now--- off the weight of the car.
I really would like to take the car on the track right now. I think I can say the trailbraking happy tail is now much better under control and I sure can feel the damping of the shocks and on one long interstate entry where my front end used to get a little light--it doesnt anymore! I'm satisfied with the suspenion now if only this pain medication will work.
Any of my Ga club buddies that are interested in diy, I would be gald to help. I learned a lot.
I think my combo of rb sways, tein h's and the koni sports are the most cost effective way to go. It gave me the extra drop that I wanted that RB springs dont, but they are not to stiff so they dont over compensate the sways. The Kon'is give the much needed damping and they match up with the springs well. The entire package is around $1000 (rb sways with end links(already had on the car), koni's and teins)
Besides they are pretty.
olddragger
11-27-2005, 01:42 PM
#6
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Glad to hear the project was successful.
How long was the entire spring & shock install?
I opted for the Racing Beat springs with stock shocks -- my only complaint is the shocks do bottom out with adults in the back seat.
How long was the entire spring & shock install?
I opted for the Racing Beat springs with stock shocks -- my only complaint is the shocks do bottom out with adults in the back seat.
11-27-2005, 02:12 PM
#7
remember I had no power tools and I had to make an "trip" . The start to finish was about 6-7 hrs. I could do it in 4 now with power tools in the driveway. Took more time figueing things out and working that damn spring compressor without a rachet (didnt have a 15/16 socket) just a box end wrench.
1st time you learn a lot and I was cautious.
olddragger
1st time you learn a lot and I was cautious.
olddragger
11-27-2005, 03:05 PM
#8
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OD, are the endlinks required on the sways? I have the RB's and may look at this same set-up. I look forward to the outcome at Road Atlanta and Roebling.
Heck, I spent 6 hours painting my break calipers!
How about some post installation pics?
Heck, I spent 6 hours painting my break calipers!
How about some post installation pics?
Last edited by SilverEIGHT; 11-27-2005 at 03:07 PM.
11-27-2005, 04:00 PM
#9
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when i installed mine, the rear took a long time because i didnt know what i was doing. the fronts were easy. just unbolt the upper wishbone and the rest is cake. i can do the rears just as fast as the fronts now. if you unbolt one of the control arms (the long one that is used to set allignment), you sould snake the rest of the assembly out.
hey olddragger, 2 questions for you.
with the H techs, are the springs MUCH shorter in the rear. on mine with the vogtland springs, when i have my rear jacked up there is no tention in the rear at all. that slop concerns me a bit.
also, do you think having bigger sways really force your to stay at only 15% increase in spring rate? from what ive heard, goodwin racing is running JIC coilovers and still uses the racing beat sways. same with factory racers (800+ lbs springs with thicker sways). the reason why i ask is because im looking into bigger ways also. but my springs are MUCH stiffer then yours though so i dont want to start to lose traction.
denward
hey olddragger, 2 questions for you.
with the H techs, are the springs MUCH shorter in the rear. on mine with the vogtland springs, when i have my rear jacked up there is no tention in the rear at all. that slop concerns me a bit.
also, do you think having bigger sways really force your to stay at only 15% increase in spring rate? from what ive heard, goodwin racing is running JIC coilovers and still uses the racing beat sways. same with factory racers (800+ lbs springs with thicker sways). the reason why i ask is because im looking into bigger ways also. but my springs are MUCH stiffer then yours though so i dont want to start to lose traction.
denward
11-27-2005, 07:56 PM
#10
hey guys,
Silver if you get the RB sways then their front endlinks are highly recommended but they are not an absolute.the back bar uses the stock ones. Check with Charlie there is a easy way of making the stock sways stiffer known now(just my luck). If you want to put this stuff on your car I would be glad to come and help. This package plus a good alignment makes it drive like you would not believe. If you think it is good now you will not believe it afterward.
Ghost-- it was puzzling the tein h springs front and rear were the same lenght. I had to identify the differance by the markings. The front did have more coils it seemed. Yea the slop you have in the back has got to mean that your shocks are having to work harder. That doesn't seem right Man-- dont go jumping anything!
You can run big bars and stiff springs but the ride gets much harsher. Remember the suspenion works as a package. Making it too stiff can actually be bad. remember also we want a daily driver- the racing guys dont care about that.Heck they even have underbracing and have seam welded the bodies! Goodwin is a business and their 8 is an "example". I lot of people have the tein s or compatable springs with the rb bars and stock shocks. goes around a corner like it is on a rail BUT hit a little series of bumps, catch the ruff on the side of the track, hit a dip at speed , late trailbraking and the underdamping of the stock shocks become very apparate.Springs influence the height of the car, the harshnest of asorbing road irregularities(along with the shocks) and body roll (along with the sways). Sways only influence body roll. Question is how much body roll has to be controlled? This all gets very technical and books have been written on it. It has just been my experience that too stiff of a spring makes the car want to dance over any ruff spots when you are at speed.
Remember also that the stronger the spring the stronger the shock rebound you need --within reason.
I also didnt want to much drop. I wanted more than RB provided but less than the Tein s's. Since i am running a 35 offset wheel(little wider stance) I have to keep that in mind.I didnt want any rubbibg to occur!
Koni's plus springs and bars in a balance package gives you an adjustable suspenion at an realitively inexpensive price.
rotor on guys!
olddragger
Silver if you get the RB sways then their front endlinks are highly recommended but they are not an absolute.the back bar uses the stock ones. Check with Charlie there is a easy way of making the stock sways stiffer known now(just my luck). If you want to put this stuff on your car I would be glad to come and help. This package plus a good alignment makes it drive like you would not believe. If you think it is good now you will not believe it afterward.
Ghost-- it was puzzling the tein h springs front and rear were the same lenght. I had to identify the differance by the markings. The front did have more coils it seemed. Yea the slop you have in the back has got to mean that your shocks are having to work harder. That doesn't seem right Man-- dont go jumping anything!
You can run big bars and stiff springs but the ride gets much harsher. Remember the suspenion works as a package. Making it too stiff can actually be bad. remember also we want a daily driver- the racing guys dont care about that.Heck they even have underbracing and have seam welded the bodies! Goodwin is a business and their 8 is an "example". I lot of people have the tein s or compatable springs with the rb bars and stock shocks. goes around a corner like it is on a rail BUT hit a little series of bumps, catch the ruff on the side of the track, hit a dip at speed , late trailbraking and the underdamping of the stock shocks become very apparate.Springs influence the height of the car, the harshnest of asorbing road irregularities(along with the shocks) and body roll (along with the sways). Sways only influence body roll. Question is how much body roll has to be controlled? This all gets very technical and books have been written on it. It has just been my experience that too stiff of a spring makes the car want to dance over any ruff spots when you are at speed.
Remember also that the stronger the spring the stronger the shock rebound you need --within reason.
I also didnt want to much drop. I wanted more than RB provided but less than the Tein s's. Since i am running a 35 offset wheel(little wider stance) I have to keep that in mind.I didnt want any rubbibg to occur!
Koni's plus springs and bars in a balance package gives you an adjustable suspenion at an realitively inexpensive price.
rotor on guys!
olddragger
12-07-2005, 12:53 AM
#11
Originally Posted by olddragger
remember I had no power tools and I had to make an "trip" . The start to finish was about 6-7 hrs. I could do it in 4 now with power tools in the driveway. Took more time figueing things out and working that damn spring compressor without a rachet (didnt have a 15/16 socket) just a box end wrench.
1st time you learn a lot and I was cautious.
olddragger
1st time you learn a lot and I was cautious.
olddragger
12-07-2005, 01:36 PM
#14
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oldragger, you set the front ons "soft" and the rears one click above "soft", correct? What was your rationale for setting it this way? I'm curious as I'm leaning more and more towards the Koni's myself.
12-07-2005, 06:12 PM
#15
drop was about 1.4-1.5 on the front and the rear abpout 1 inch. Measured by just eyeballing. To me it is a perfect drop. I can still just barely get a floor jack under the front mid car jack point.
Red I set the front on soft for daily driving and on the track i plan on running 1 click harder. The fronts take 15 secs to change so no probs. The back I set observing DPE's advice because they are much more difficult to change the settings. It works-- the happy tail during high speed hard braking is gone and the damping---- well they are koni's! I could go mucher harder on the settings but right now that is not needed.
With the suspension/car the way it is (my camber settings are -1.4 front and -1.9 rear) I have a lot more car than driver. Plus I need some Hoosiers.
I highly recommend this set up.
Ava glad you had help dude--you are right --with help dont need the compressor---all i had was a cat. Damn thing was eating my soup when I wasn't looking.
olddragger
Red I set the front on soft for daily driving and on the track i plan on running 1 click harder. The fronts take 15 secs to change so no probs. The back I set observing DPE's advice because they are much more difficult to change the settings. It works-- the happy tail during high speed hard braking is gone and the damping---- well they are koni's! I could go mucher harder on the settings but right now that is not needed.
With the suspension/car the way it is (my camber settings are -1.4 front and -1.9 rear) I have a lot more car than driver. Plus I need some Hoosiers.
I highly recommend this set up.
Ava glad you had help dude--you are right --with help dont need the compressor---all i had was a cat. Damn thing was eating my soup when I wasn't looking.
olddragger
12-08-2005, 09:06 PM
#17
thanks Chas,
I'll be there. I believe a couple of newbe friends may come and watch also. One has designated rooms for collectable mustangs in his house--no kidding-- and the other is retired and used to build kit cars. They all like the 8
pray the weather is good. hope you have the headers. But ---
OD
I'll be there. I believe a couple of newbe friends may come and watch also. One has designated rooms for collectable mustangs in his house--no kidding-- and the other is retired and used to build kit cars. They all like the 8
pray the weather is good. hope you have the headers. But ---
OD
12-11-2005, 02:47 AM
#18
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if you don't mind me asking how much you paid for the shocks and springs? i'm looking at going with the same set actually and would love to purchase from the same company you did
12-12-2005, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by olddragger
Cobalt,
Check with DPE (a vendor in this forum--) they have a package price and to the best of my knowledge they had the best price. I'm cheap so trust me. Plus they offer some great advice and great service.
olddragger
Check with DPE (a vendor in this forum--) they have a package price and to the best of my knowledge they had the best price. I'm cheap so trust me. Plus they offer some great advice and great service.
olddragger
As my pal Jeff says: I'm not cheap, I'm thrifty!
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