Initial report on Tokico D-Specs
03-30-2006, 03:11 PM
#27
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
Try five turns out from full stiff for street use on OEM springs - works great.
I'm going to try 4 out in the back and 5 in the front. I want to reintroduce some oversteer to compensate for the staggered tire fitment.
03-30-2006, 04:15 PM
#28
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ive got an 04 gt, stock wheels/tire size, but have the bfg kdw2's, with the d-specs (had em since around nov) and eibach lowering kit, and mspeed front upper strut bar. i have to say that i love the ride, with it set right about in the middle. now all i have to do is order a set of the cables for the rear from racing beat and put em in (werent available when i got the setup originally)
all i have to say, i love the setup
all i have to say, i love the setup
03-30-2006, 04:31 PM
#29
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Sweet.. Thankx for the comment. I have a similar setup to you and this will be my next purchase. Glad to hear that you like it. I cant wait to get this setup out on the track. It's funny because the friends that I race with say that I already track right around the corner but you can never have enough good handling.
03-30-2006, 08:36 PM
#30
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
I'm on AutoEXE springs, which are only somewhat stiffer than OEM.
I'm going to try 4 out in the back and 5 in the front. I want to reintroduce some oversteer to compensate for the staggered tire fitment.
I'm going to try 4 out in the back and 5 in the front. I want to reintroduce some oversteer to compensate for the staggered tire fitment.
I have the rears set to 3 1/2 and 4 1/2 for the front.
So far not bad for daily driving. I originally had 5 out for the rear and 6 for the front but it felt too sloppy for the Tein's so I kicked them back a bit.
BTW just get the adjusters for the rears. It makes it so easy to try diffrent settings.
04-03-2006, 07:48 AM
#32
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I can adjust the rears easily without purchasing the adjustor cable, but you have to cut a small hole in the frame behind the carpet to access the top of the shock. Takes about 30 minutes.
04-03-2006, 05:14 PM
#35
Originally Posted by iridearocket
I can adjust the rears easily without purchasing the adjustor cable, but you have to cut a small hole in the frame behind the carpet to access the top of the shock. Takes about 30 minutes.
04-04-2006, 06:45 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by iridearocket
I can adjust the rears easily without purchasing the adjustor cable, but you have to cut a small hole in the frame behind the carpet to access the top of the shock. Takes about 30 minutes.
04-04-2006, 09:06 AM
#38
Originally Posted by pcimino
Even the holes required to run the adjuster cables?
13.5 F. A hole my be added to an interior body panel to provide access
to the adjustment mechanism on an allowed adjustable shock
absorber. The hole may serve no other purpose. Interior panels
are defined to be those pieces which cover the interior of the
vehicle and are accessible from inside the vehicle. They do not
include structural panels, such as wheel wells or inner fenders,
which may also be accessible from inside the car but which
actually form part of the body of the vehicle.
04-04-2006, 10:12 PM
#39
Therefore, you can drill a hole in the fabric liner of the trunk (which is what I did) but you cannot drill a hole in the steel of the body.
So, you must thread the cable through existing holes in the sheet metal, but then you can cut holes in the fabric liner so that the adjuster ***** are accesible from within the trunk.
But, if you don't care about SCCA rules, then MM's approach works fine.
So, you must thread the cable through existing holes in the sheet metal, but then you can cut holes in the fabric liner so that the adjuster ***** are accesible from within the trunk.
But, if you don't care about SCCA rules, then MM's approach works fine.
04-04-2006, 10:25 PM
#40
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
Therefore, you can drill a hole in the fabric liner of the trunk (which is what I did) but you cannot drill a hole in the steel of the body.
So, you must thread the cable through existing holes in the sheet metal, but then you can cut holes in the fabric liner so that the adjuster ***** are accesible from within the trunk.
But, if you don't care about SCCA rules, then MM's approach works fine.
So, you must thread the cable through existing holes in the sheet metal, but then you can cut holes in the fabric liner so that the adjuster ***** are accesible from within the trunk.
But, if you don't care about SCCA rules, then MM's approach works fine.
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