How's Everyones Goodridge Brake Lines?
03-28-2006, 02:17 PM
#1
How's Everyones Goodridge Brake Lines?
Any trouble with the c-clips breaking? How about the extra line length, any trouble with rubbing on suspension components?
I'm not real warm and fuzzy with mine. I had a clip break, (43-635 OEM Version), and the extra length has me a little worried.
I'm not real warm and fuzzy with mine. I had a clip break, (43-635 OEM Version), and the extra length has me a little worried.
Last edited by Nemesis8; 03-28-2006 at 02:22 PM.
03-28-2006, 02:59 PM
#2
I was just going to PM Dannobre about how he installed his with the RacingBrake BBK. The front hoses are quite a bit longer than the OE ones. Find it hard to believe the clip broke though. Isn't it identical to the OE one, just new replacement parts?
03-28-2006, 03:18 PM
#3
The Goodridge clip is a different material, looks copper in color. I replaced it with the original OEM 43-635 clip, and might replace the other ones also. I think I have moved the front lines 3 or 4 times now trying to find the right spot so they miss hitting everything by loosening the clamp in the middle and pulling the lines back and forth. Maybe that's why the Mazdaspeed lines mimic the OEM rubber lines with a two line front. Dan mentioned a zip tie maybe to hold them to something, but I don't like that.
03-28-2006, 07:11 PM
#5
I used the OEM clips...they are easier to install and stay in better. The lines are long...and the retainer clamp has the wrong sized hole in it and needs to be drilled out.
I zip tied them out of the way...they work OK. Should be shorter though...with better retaining clamp
The better alternative is the MS ones...but they are $450....so they should be
I zip tied them out of the way...they work OK. Should be shorter though...with better retaining clamp
The better alternative is the MS ones...but they are $450....so they should be
03-29-2006, 12:38 PM
#11
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My Goodridge Brake lines came with the RacingBrake BBK and installed by a mechanic. If there had been any install issues, my mechanic would let me know, (see brake thread below) he loves to wine and point out other’s shortfalls, then he gets the job done. If zips for install had been required, he would have been ALL over that! He did not install Brake lines on rear OEM brakes as he was concerned about too much pressure to the rear offsetting the car balance under high speed braking at the Track. Probably not an issue, but … Flawless at Laguna Seca, Streets of Willow next.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-55/racingbrake-bbk-vs-oem-stock-brake-85934/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-55/racingbrake-bbk-vs-oem-stock-brake-85934/
03-29-2006, 12:53 PM
#13
He's as bad as Can
Originally Posted by Nemesis8
OK, I need to know how many are runnning these on the track. Just the three of us? Sounds like a freakin song or something...
03-29-2006, 02:49 PM
#15
Originally Posted by HooDoo
He did not install Brake lines on rear OEM brakes as he was concerned about too much pressure to the rear offsetting the car balance under high speed braking at the Track. Probably not an issue, [/url]
It's not, he should have installed them.
03-29-2006, 09:38 PM
#16
^^ wonder where he got that theory...the rears are so short that even if the stock hoses are expanding 10% the volume would be negligible
As for the fronts..they are long...but they probably wouldn't rub on the stock 8" wheels.....they do pose a problem with 9.5" wheels though
As for the fronts..they are long...but they probably wouldn't rub on the stock 8" wheels.....they do pose a problem with 9.5" wheels though
03-30-2006, 02:51 PM
#17
He's as bad as Can
Put on the summer tires today so I took some photos of how my Goodridge lines are looking after alomost 30,000 miles and some track time. As you can see I did use zip ties on the front to keep them from rubbing.
04-02-2006, 03:02 AM
#20
well I got mine mounted tonight along the with the RacingBrake front BBK and rear rotors and figured it out for the front brake lines, all the slack is suppose to go to the back, it forms a loop that lines up with the opening in the rear control arm between the two suspension bushing mounts. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow
what a PITA though, I hate f'ing with brake lines and hate f'ing with brake fluid even more than that, good thing nobody was around to hear my long tirade of epithets yelled out with extreme emphasis .... I still have to bleed and flush it all tomorrow, ugh
what a PITA though, I hate f'ing with brake lines and hate f'ing with brake fluid even more than that, good thing nobody was around to hear my long tirade of epithets yelled out with extreme emphasis .... I still have to bleed and flush it all tomorrow, ugh
Last edited by TeamRX8; 04-02-2006 at 03:04 AM.
04-03-2006, 12:28 AM
#23
As promised, here are the pics with some notes to make the process easier to understand for anyone else who purchases the Goodridge hoses separately or the RacingBrake BBK that includes them.
First picture below is with the steering turned full lock to swing the front of the wheel assembly full inboard. This is the position you need to have spindle assembly in when tightening the clamp because this is where the hose is stretched the longest. Make sure the hose is in a relaxed, unstretched position, then tighten the clamp. Prior to this the clamp needs to have it's 1/4" hole drilled out to 5/16" to reuse the OE positioning bolt. Goodrich does not provide the proper size. Note that the clamp needs to be positioned downward to provide clearance between the hose and the upper control arm:
Next picture is with the spindle turned to the straight ahead position. Nice and neat.
Last picture is with the steering turned full lock to swing the rear of the wheel full inboard. Note everything clears nice, all bends are smooth, etc. You are ready to bleed the front brakes now.
First picture below is with the steering turned full lock to swing the front of the wheel assembly full inboard. This is the position you need to have spindle assembly in when tightening the clamp because this is where the hose is stretched the longest. Make sure the hose is in a relaxed, unstretched position, then tighten the clamp. Prior to this the clamp needs to have it's 1/4" hole drilled out to 5/16" to reuse the OE positioning bolt. Goodrich does not provide the proper size. Note that the clamp needs to be positioned downward to provide clearance between the hose and the upper control arm:
Next picture is with the spindle turned to the straight ahead position. Nice and neat.
Last picture is with the steering turned full lock to swing the rear of the wheel full inboard. Note everything clears nice, all bends are smooth, etc. You are ready to bleed the front brakes now.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 04-03-2006 at 12:35 AM.
11-03-2006, 12:32 PM
#24
oooh. shiny.
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Sad to say, but I zip-tied my lines in place. I put 3 zip-ties on each side. I tied the lines to the A-fram control arm. At full turn, left or right, the lines were rubbing against the insides of my rims and against the backs of my rotors. Any suggestions to clamp it down w/o using zip-ties or drilling?
Last edited by bikes2cars; 11-03-2006 at 12:46 PM.