Originally Posted by J8635621

1. Stick to 17", 18", or 19" diameter wheels with 17" being more for autox/track work and 19" being more for bling bling. The really early automatic transmission cars can run 16" wheels due to their smaller front brakes.

2. Don't go thinner than 8" width. That's less than stock. Refer to #11. Some people want 7.5" wheels for snow tires. I have never seen snow, so I can't help with that.

3. Bolt pattern is 5x114.3mm or 5x4.5" as they are the same thing. This is the standard bolt pattern for many OEM brands like Nissan, Ford, newer Subaru, etc. Hub size is 67.1mm. This is not usually important as most aftermarket wheels are made excessively large in order to be compatible with more cars, but some OEM wheels are smaller and will need machined out for the wheel to sit correctly. For the wheel hubs larger than 67.1mm, it would be ideal to have rings that convert it to 67.1mm Link

4. Don't pick heavy *** wheels (greater than 25lbs) because you will notice a difference in daily driving comfort/performance. Try to stick to something 21lbs or less. Diameter plays a part into this but those general numbers should work.

5. Lower your car first if you are trying to be "flush." Do it right and do springs/struts or my personal favorite coilovers. Don't go cheap here. Thank me later.

6. Poke is bad, mmmmkay. If you don't know what poke is, don't learn because it is dumb. If you want poke then you are beyond the realm of this thread.

7. You don't NEED anything wider than 245s for street driving under 99% of conditions. Anything more will slow you down due to extra weight unless you have FI. Wider does look better to some people though.

8. Choice of offset is dependent on wheel width and also how much negative camber your car has (likely related to how low you are). These are general ranges which should be good to go for stock height. A lower number means the outer edge of the wheel is farther from the midline of the car.

8" wide - +30 to +50 with 225/45/18 or 245/40/18 (or equivalent for diameter)
8.5" wide - +35 to +50 with 245/40/18, 255/40/18
9" wide - +40 to +50 with 245/40/18, 255/40/18
9.5" wide - +45 to +50 with 245/40/18, 255/40/18, or 275/35/18.

265/35/18 (9" to 10"), and 235/40/18 (8" - 8.5") are good sizes as well if you are lowered quite a bit. (shorter sidewall means more wheel gap at a given ride height)

9. For every inch you are lowered, you can go about 5mm lower on offset, ie from +30 to +25ish. This is not perfect because not everyone has the same amount of camber but it is a decent general rule. When lowered though, stay away from 255/40/18 or 225/45/18 tires (or equivalent for your diameter). They can cause problems with their height.

10. Rolling fenders isn't hard or expensive and it doesn't make your car look different from the outside. It gives you more room though and will give you greater peace of mind. Pulling fenders is another matter though that is permanent and visible from the outside.

11. Most wheels look "better" when they are wider. Concave wheels will be more concave and wheels with a lip will have more lip. Some other wheels have offset work into that as well but they are far more rare (read that $$expensive$$).

12. Staggered is stupid too. Same width/offset all around for better handling and ability to rotate tires. Being staggered won't make your car explode or anything, but there is no reason to do it.


Anything within about 10mm of offset from this, feel free to ask in the Will It Fit thread. Everything else I won't help on because it probably wouldn't look good to me and I won't promote that. You shouldn't need this thread if you are trying to be hellaflush anyways.