How difficult is it...
#1
How difficult is it...
to change the brake pads and rotate the rotors on an 04 Rx8? I can get the pads cheap but every place i go to wants to use their own bullshit pads and change me off the wall prices. Anyone ever done this?? please post up or pm me.
Also has anyone ever seen a Chiltons Guide for an Rx8? Barnes and Noble have alot but can not get one for the the 8. Thanks
Also has anyone ever seen a Chiltons Guide for an Rx8? Barnes and Noble have alot but can not get one for the the 8. Thanks
#2
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The answer to your first question is here...
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/
You can find the thread on how to install pads and rotors, and determine for yourself if it is too hard or not for your level.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/
You can find the thread on how to install pads and rotors, and determine for yourself if it is too hard or not for your level.
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Originally Posted by Winning 8
what you mean by rotate rotors???
Honestly, don't know why you would other than that...Of course, just because you can, doesn't mean you should...
#7
well as you may already have known i am still learning. I jsut took my car in for some warranty work and was told that i needed to change the front pads and that i could just rotate the rotors instead of replacing them. Not sure what that means but that was just what i was told. Please tell me why not to do that.
They also said i needed some kinda induction cleaning or some **** but to me it sounds like a scam that they tell everyone to get another 150 bucks from them. Any thoughts on that??? I am once again not sure what is regular needed maintance on the rotorys. Thanks
They also said i needed some kinda induction cleaning or some **** but to me it sounds like a scam that they tell everyone to get another 150 bucks from them. Any thoughts on that??? I am once again not sure what is regular needed maintance on the rotorys. Thanks
#8
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What they are most likely talking about is having your rotors cut down on a lathe. This takes away all the high points and gives you a nice even smooth surface for the new brake pads. This can usually be done at least once. There is a limit on how much material can be taken off.
As far as the induction cleaning, I haven't a clue. Why don't you ask what it involves and what you expect to gain from this service?
As far as the induction cleaning, I haven't a clue. Why don't you ask what it involves and what you expect to gain from this service?
Last edited by alnielsen; 05-16-2006 at 08:34 AM.
#9
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I doubt they are suggesting that you rotate your rotors like you would with tires. I would agree that what they are recommending is to "turn" your rotors, or "resurface" your rotors. Like alnielsen says, they will take th high points out so that your brake pads will have a smooth contact/surface.
Brakes are very simple to replace, and you can get the OEM ones from several vendors for cheap. You will need a special tool to remove the rotors. Once removed, you can take the rotors to a brake shop and they will resurface them for you at a cost. I think Pep Boys even can do this. I'm not sure, I've never used them for that.
Brakes are very simple to replace, and you can get the OEM ones from several vendors for cheap. You will need a special tool to remove the rotors. Once removed, you can take the rotors to a brake shop and they will resurface them for you at a cost. I think Pep Boys even can do this. I'm not sure, I've never used them for that.
#11
Because it removes material from the rotors. After a couple times, the rotors get too thin and they crack. It's not recommended that you turn your rotors unless you're having problems with them.
#12
Momentum Keeps Me Going
Rub your finger from inside out on the shiny rotor surface. If you don't feel any or very little in the way of roughness, ridges, or imperfections, you could likely get by w/only replacing the pads, and not resurfacing the rotors. How many miles you've gone is a helpful indicator as well.
Even after 20K miles of summer driving, my original rotors are in fine shape, no groves, uneven wear, or excess wear. But it depends on the conditions you drive in, how you drive, and to some extent fate, on how your rotors wear. That's why someone w/a trained eye or a runout guage is the best person to check them. The urban legend that rotors become 'warped' is pretty much just that... the thing that happens to rotors is uneven pad deposits buildup that causes pulsating brake pedal that people mistake for the 'warped rotor' syndrome.
Brake shops will even agree with you about this, then just replace them or resurface them.
Personally, if they are worn, I prefer to just replace the rotors. They are fairly inexpensive for stock type replacements, and then you've got a full thinkness rotor, not a machined down one. As a rotor is simply a piece of metal used as a heatsink... removed materials reduced the heat sink available, however little that may be depends on how much material they take off.
Even after 20K miles of summer driving, my original rotors are in fine shape, no groves, uneven wear, or excess wear. But it depends on the conditions you drive in, how you drive, and to some extent fate, on how your rotors wear. That's why someone w/a trained eye or a runout guage is the best person to check them. The urban legend that rotors become 'warped' is pretty much just that... the thing that happens to rotors is uneven pad deposits buildup that causes pulsating brake pedal that people mistake for the 'warped rotor' syndrome.
Brake shops will even agree with you about this, then just replace them or resurface them.
Personally, if they are worn, I prefer to just replace the rotors. They are fairly inexpensive for stock type replacements, and then you've got a full thinkness rotor, not a machined down one. As a rotor is simply a piece of metal used as a heatsink... removed materials reduced the heat sink available, however little that may be depends on how much material they take off.
#14
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most place will turn your rotor, because it cause extra and it is all labor cost.
if this is your first time changing the pad, then you don't need to turn your rotors, just a pad slab will be fine, if there is no vibration while you brake (warp rotors).
get some hawk ceramic pad, they cost $70 and work better then stock with no noise and less dust than factory pad. If you need help, I could post pic to help you out.
if this is your first time changing the pad, then you don't need to turn your rotors, just a pad slab will be fine, if there is no vibration while you brake (warp rotors).
get some hawk ceramic pad, they cost $70 and work better then stock with no noise and less dust than factory pad. If you need help, I could post pic to help you out.
#15
It's an easy profit margin for turning your rotors.
Why not? You'll never see that customer again. People don't keep there cars long enough.
Oh by the way if I turn the rotors I know I won't see that customer again.
If he doesn't come back he's happy. If a customer comes back and you didn't turn the rotors you get a unhappy customer and bad publicity.
Turn thenm everytime and you will always have a happy customer.
Why not? You'll never see that customer again. People don't keep there cars long enough.
Oh by the way if I turn the rotors I know I won't see that customer again.
If he doesn't come back he's happy. If a customer comes back and you didn't turn the rotors you get a unhappy customer and bad publicity.
Turn thenm everytime and you will always have a happy customer.
#16
Don't forget to have them change the air in your tires also.
The pressurized air in your tires can go bad about every 6K and make your car heavier....
I know.... just what you need.... another smart-***.
Let us know what happens.
The pressurized air in your tires can go bad about every 6K and make your car heavier....
I know.... just what you need.... another smart-***.
Let us know what happens.
#17
Originally Posted by EyeBall Fixer...(o)(x)
Don't forget to have them change the air in your tires also.
The pressurized air in your tires can go bad about every 6K and make your car heavier....
I know.... just what you need.... another smart-***.
Let us know what happens.
The pressurized air in your tires can go bad about every 6K and make your car heavier....
I know.... just what you need.... another smart-***.
Let us know what happens.
lol to that air changing thing. Wouldnt that suck to have to do that regularly also. lol
Also thanks for the imput guys. I found this on ebay...rotors and pads for 110?? good?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...spagenameZWDVW
Also they have these hawk pads with no rotors for 62 shipped. What would you do.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HAWK-...spagenameZWDVW
I guess i also need to see if the rotors need to be replaced or just rotated. Also
the car is an 04 with 42,000 miles. Dont know the history on the car because i just
got it like a week ago. I do know that when brake sometimes the wheel shakes
some and i know that when i slam the brakes hard to stop fast the peddle shakes
hardcore. What would you guys do?
Last edited by namrag69; 05-17-2006 at 02:25 AM.
#18
Momentum Keeps Me Going
Guess you didn't pay attention.... try to learn...there is NO ROTATING ROTORS!!!!! You can 'TURN' rotors meaning on a lathe taking surface material off.
Hawk pads are good.. but any pair of rotors you get for $48 - bad...have to be crap.... just get genuine replacements from Mazda, e.g.
Why not go to the dealer and ask what they think? They don't need to do the work, just get an eval and a price... then do what you want.
Hawk pads are good.. but any pair of rotors you get for $48 - bad...have to be crap.... just get genuine replacements from Mazda, e.g.
Why not go to the dealer and ask what they think? They don't need to do the work, just get an eval and a price... then do what you want.
#19
Originally Posted by Spin9k
Guess you didn't pay attention.... try to learn...there is NO ROTATING ROTORS!!!!! You can 'TURN' rotors meaning on a lathe taking surface material off.
Hawk pads are good.. but any pair of rotors you get for $48 - bad...have to be crap.... just get genuine replacements from Mazda, e.g.
Why not go to the dealer and ask what they think? They don't need to do the work, just get an eval and a price... then do what you want.
Hawk pads are good.. but any pair of rotors you get for $48 - bad...have to be crap.... just get genuine replacements from Mazda, e.g.
Why not go to the dealer and ask what they think? They don't need to do the work, just get an eval and a price... then do what you want.
As for the dealer price they told me 249 for pads and labor so ya screw them.
#21
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if while you are braking and it virbrate, the rotor is warp. No use if turning it, just get some new rotors and hawk brake pads. do it yourself it is very easy and much cheaper.
#22
I am thinkin about doing it myself using all the info from this board but the thing that is holding me back is the fact that they are the brakes. Arguably the most important part of the car and if i do even the smallest thing wrong and they fail on me im screwed. Im sure i will attempt changing them but will have to really know how to do it and what im doing.
#25
Momentum Keeps Me Going
Originally Posted by Winning 8
if while you are braking and it virbrate, the rotor is warp. No use if turning it, just get some new rotors and hawk brake pads. do it yourself it is very easy and much cheaper.
namrag69, the tool is for the rears only, to turn (rather than push) the pistons in before putting in the new pads. I'm guessing you don't even need to do the rears, any virbration in the wheel is due to pad deposits on the front rotors. You can get it at any parts store. Funny looking thing like this http://shop.store.yahoo.com/brandspl...6-kd-3163.html and once you know what they look like, you'll find them easily.
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