04Green

iTrader: (1)

Easy Question:

I have adjustable sway bars. If I am not using the same holes on each side, I get some pre-load in the bar. I want that pre-load to go away. For that, I need to be able to adjust the length of one of the end links.

I would like to be able to do the same in the front and the back. For that I need 1 adjustable front one, and one adjustable rear one.

The question: Can I just get one set of adjustable links and use one on the front, and one on the back? I realize this will not give me stronger links, but it will save $100 to $150 bucks.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Front and rear are different lengths....especially if the car is lowered

04Green

iTrader: (1)

Ah, but by how much?

These things adjust, right?

Intent is to have one that will pretty much adjust to about both lengths, maybe +- 1/4 inch.

40w8

REDRX3RX8 made a DIY on "shortened rear factory endlinks" which cost him only $10 each to his machinist friend.

Why don't you shorten one stock endlink in the front or rear by about 1/4 inch, and you can put the shortened one on whichever side you want to tweak.

I'm pretty sure it'll make the bar pull up inside wheel more on the shorter side, and when the longer one is on the inside wheel the bar will pull that inside wheel up less.

In other words, no roll on one side, but lots of roll to the other side.

Maybe they do that on circle track cars, but I need to steer close to equal both ways.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

loosen all four nuts on both end links, there is usually enough hole slop in all four holes to accommodate the difference without an adjustable endlink

04Green

iTrader: (1)

@Team, Thanks. Simple and elegant.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

You can try to loosen just two to start and see if that will do it.

Spin9k

Well 04Green you can see I'm the only one posting here that has done it this way using one set of links. It's a functionally perfect solution. Using hole slop is impossible IMO. Moreover, if you actually could get it to work.... you'd have so much slop in the bar hole, the bar should be replaced. No bolt/nut can resist the torque of the bar very long in an oversized hol by adkusting one or more bolts due to 'slop' - the bolts would simply loosen and start clattering.

You've already proved to yourself the preload is there ...so you don't have enough hole slop, - which is such a laughable 'fix' I surpised it's Team suggesting it. Just get one set of links, and be done with it. If on the far out chance that's not good enough, just get the other. You've got nothing to lose one way or another.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

That is kind of the plan... I missed my next track weekend, so I got some time. Thanks,

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

you really should get a clue, every bar has hole slop, the amount you need is often very small, and this is from someone who has extensive corner balance experience, if your chassis twist is off that far you have more serious problems somewhere else


.

Spin9k

You're a funny guy Team, you feel the need to contrive five (!) 'excuses' defending your position that others use of adj links is either superfluous or shows 'a chassis twist problem'.

Nice you car is so perfectly weighted, adjustable links are not required, but that's not everyones experience