EBC Rotors and Pads
#1
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EBC Rotors and Pads
I ordered a set of EBC slotted and dimpled rotors a while back along with a pair of green stuff pads. Everything went well execpt for removing the set screws that hold the rotor on. I had to drill them out and replace them.
#6
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Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp
yea, thats why I went with the greens.
I thought the Green is street only pad and have a lower temp range???
On the street both red and green is ok but I don't think the red in the cold is any good. Good choice anyway.
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Originally Posted by takahashi
Why is that better.
I thought the Green is street only pad and have a lower temp range???
On the street both red and green is ok but I don't think the red in the cold is any good. Good choice anyway.
I thought the Green is street only pad and have a lower temp range???
On the street both red and green is ok but I don't think the red in the cold is any good. Good choice anyway.
#8
Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp
I ordered a set of EBC slotted and dimpled rotors a while back along with a pair of green stuff pads. Everything went well execpt for removing the set screws that hold the rotor on. I had to drill them out and replace them.
Do you know the weight difference between these and the stock rotors?
What are the benefits of the combo you have on now (green pads and new rotors)? Fade-resistant? Better feel? Shorter stopping distance?
I've been meaning to get around to putting these things on. Maybe your answers will light a fire under my ***. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by 8is>enuff
What are the benefits of the combo you have on now (green pads and new rotors)? Fade-resistant? Better feel? Shorter stopping distance?
plus no more squeeling....NONE
#11
Originally Posted by Coop '04
I put this setup on and I got all of the above benefits I got DBA rotors not EBC (still cross drilled and slotted) and the Green Stuff pads.
plus no more squeeling....NONE
plus no more squeeling....NONE
No more squealing is almost enough reason in itself.
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For whoever IMed me and wanted to know where I bought them, my computer was acting retarded and I lost your username.
Here is where I ordered the rotors and pads.
http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/ebc/pro...9f2b19cca98ff8
Here is where I ordered the rotors and pads.
http://www.ajusa.com/cgi-bin/ebc/pro...9f2b19cca98ff8
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Originally Posted by Coop '04
I put this setup on and I got all of the above benefits
As for "agressiveness" of pads- you need an "agressive" pad on the track or the brakes will fade. I guess this makes them last longer, but at the expense of totaling your car. The greens are totally fine if all you do is street driving with an occasional jaunt to the triple digits. On a track you really want an "agressive" pad.
Overheating a pad actually kills it fast- so taking a green to the track will actually last less time than a red would. I killed a set of brand new Axxis metal master pads on a track in under 3 miles in my DSM. They were basically ash when I took them off.
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Yes, I only did the front for now. And yea, the green stuff pads are not track pads. On the street the green stuff pads do work better then the red stuff, according the EBC. I don't track my car so it's not a problem. You may be able to do one 130-0 stop without fade, but I highly doubt you'll be able to do 2 or 3.
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Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp
You may be able to do one 130-0 stop without fade, but I highly doubt you'll be able to do 2 or 3.
#24
Brake fade actually depends more on the brake fluid. My brakes faded the first couple of times I went to the track, changed over to ATE super blue, no more brake fade, that combined with my 2 piece project mu rotors which are slotted and dimpled didn't fade during the hottest weekend of the summer, it was 105 degrees out and I even melted my tire pressure gauge cause it was so hot.
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