Im sure you knew that i knew they were dimpled...

 

thats exactly what we used...an impact driver....they came right out....
Im a firm believer that if its there, its there for a reason...so we used the screws

an impact driver is a nice tool to have handy

Al - not sure how im gonna to the powder coating...i do know that im not gonna do it myself...so more will be revealed on that one...


Ive been told by some very prestigious racing people that our brakes are big enough and work just fine with the proper pads....thats why i opted not to spend 3K on a brembo kit or less on rotoras....

I'd rather spend the money on something else...although i dont know what else i could get for the car at this point...im running out of things....

 

the stock brakes are great, and damn big really. the right pads make a big difference, depending on what you plan to do. I can't see taking a nice car like your shinka to the track, so some good no-dust ceramic pads would probably be fine.

 

I too did the same thing. The screws are to hold the rotor in place during the production line. Not really needed after that.

 

of course, and i knew you were smart enough to get dimpled. the note was for the others.

funny i am having the same problem. not much left to add...

beers

 

indeed!!!

when are you comin up??

weve got some meets scheduled...
also...would you like to be an honorary member?

www.tristaterotaryclub.net

 

sure,

i am already a honorary member of the ga club...

as to comming up. i dont see that going on for quite a while... looks like i am going to be back and forth to corpus christi a lot..

beers

 

awww..
you will be missed...

PS..moon is an honorary member...

 

yesterday I put on my RacingBrake rotors, and in the process found a use for the retaining screw that might want you to keep it around, at least in a toolbox somewhere.

if your rotor will not release from the hub, there is an extra hole on the hat, for an 8mmx1.25 bolt to be placed in, that when screwed in, will help to break free the stuck rotor from the hub. it worked on the one of mine that was stuck.

just FYI.

 

good to know...

thanks for the info!!

 

just start buying stuff for those of us in the tristate club

 

 

your rotors are on correctly.

 

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I think it is appropriate.

Are these rotors still in use and do they still look that lovely?

About to get new rotor and pads. As per usual conflicting advice left right and centre (sorry center) but whatever ...

I have horribly rusty rotors and a ton of dust. We have hot moist conditions in Hawaii (sorry cold people) and really want rotors that don't look like crap after six months and pads that don't generate a ton of dust!

 

I would use EBC rotors as paper weights..

 

I cant vouch for those rotors but have a bit of incite for you. I use to live in the great white north where they used salt on the roads. Just make sure you get Zinc coated rotors. Many company's offer them and they will keep your rotors rust free for a few years.

As far as none dusting pads go well if you are not tracking your car I would look for a ceramic derived pad.

 

Metallurgy skills to the rescue! Cadmium coatings are used to prevent rust.

However I think you are talking about where the rotor touches the pads.. and iirc every rotor does that.. just drive around the block and the rust will no longer be there. its not a big deal.

 

Nah it is at the "foot" of the rotor as you go towards the axle - rusty, gnarly and just ... well nasty compared to the rest of the car.

 

goodbye