Turns out it is an intermittent fault with the caliper. Got to the tyre place and even an hour later the brake disc was red hot. The brand new disc itself was white whereas the other one was still grey. Got the car back to my mechanic and £169 later they've replaced it. Got to pick it up in the morning.....

 

Not so sure-fire on the RX-8 for some reason, maybe because they are integrated hub/bearing units. I had the right front bearings go bad which manifested as a pronounced grumble and vibration at high speeds and under cornering. I couldn't localize it by ear or feel, neither could a professional Mazda mechanic friend of mine. Spin-the-wheels-by-hand trick didn't show any bearing problems. I chased my tail for a month trying to find the grumble. Having run out of other options I just spun the front wheels so fast I nearly popped a blood vessel and finally got the grumble from the bearing.

Tore that hub apart (not easy; swaged together!), and found the bearings were intact but dry and crispy-fried. Grease was rock hard. I hate integrated non-serviceable hubs.

 

Agreed.

Completely forgot that the original point was about track use. Apologies to UnknownJinX.

 

When my front hubs failed, they started making what sounded like brake noise. I didn't know I had a problem for a long time. It wasn't until I had the calipers off and put a stethoscope on them during planned maintenance that I realized they were done.

 

I apologize if this has been asked elsewhere but I figured I would post here rather than starting a thread.

I just picked up a set of Hawk HT-10 pads for HPDE due to the fact that the last event I attended made me realize how insufficient my street pads truly were (made even worse by also going to a stickier set of rubber I imagine). After the first install I will of course bed the pads properly according to the manufacturer's recommendations before driving at an event. My main question is, do I need to fully re-bed the track pads each time I put them in before an event? I understand that if I want to have optimal adherent friction, a new layer of material from the track pads must be laid down to replace the coating left from my street pads in between events, but I'm unsure if there are other ways to go about this (i.e. drive first session 6/10ths, less intensive bed in procedure, etc.) rather than performing the full procedure each time.

I suppose I'm asking more for your personal opinions/experiences rather than a technical answer. What do you guys do for your track pads after swapping them in before events?

 

I swap back-and-forth between street pads and HP+ pads all the time with no bedding and no problems.

 

Hey guys,

Hopefully you can help me before I drive myself crazy. About 2016-2017 I was looking at getting new rotors, and I came across a 3 piece design that I can't for the life of me find anymore. There was the usual hat and ring, but the ring itself was split down the vanes, to allow a more complex vane design. Half of the vanes were cast on the front(outer) ring, and half on the rear(inner) ring. The two rings would index together and the ring-hat mounts alternated front(outer) and rear(inner). They were supposed to be amazeballs at cooling. At this point the actual performance gains are secondary, I just want to know i'm not going nuts. Does anyone know what i'm referring to? I've looked everywhere and can't find them.

Thanks!

 

Hi, I'm using the MazdaSpeed break pad with OEM rotor for over 12 years. mostly for Autocross, some lapping session and on the road. Nothing to complain, podium most of the time. People are impress by the braking power on the car, predictive and never got any fading even during 20 min timeattack session.
I tried the Hawk HP+ and yes the initial bite was way better but after a few autocross runs they were not as good taking longer to brake, same during lapping session. And dust was crazy

Anybody that used the mazdaspeed pad on OEM got similar or better experience with others pads?.

 

I'm sure this has been answered a million times but can't find anything for my case.

I'm building an RX-8 2007 for ONLY track use. I'm installing an Adaptronic ECU and wanted to get rid of the ABS and make new direct lines from brake pump to calliper. I heard deleting the ABS throws off the brake balance? Does this still happen if I make new brake lines?

 

Possibly stupid question:

If this is a track-only build and you'll be deleting ABS, won't you want to install a way to tweak brake bias anyway? If so, I'd think it wouldn't matter what the ABS delete did to your brake bias, if anything.