Any tips for spring install???
09-24-2004, 06:44 PM
#1
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Any tips for spring install???
I read the thread in the D.I.Y. forum and it is def. helpful but I'm planning this install on Sunday so any info is greatly appreciated. Are there any other threads or sites on doing the install? I've lowered my old Cobra and a WRX so I have some experience but haven't touched an 8 yet. Anyone have any advice or torque specs on bolts?
Thanks in advance,
Pete
Thanks in advance,
Pete
09-24-2004, 11:05 PM
#2
Which spings are you installing? If you are going to change the sway bars at some point, I recomend that you do them at the same time as the spings. It is much easier to install the front sway bar with the sping assemblies out of the car and it is much easier to get the rear spings out of the car when the rear sway bar is off.
My notes from this thread:https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...spring+install
My notes from this thread:https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...spring+install
Originally Posted by Z00M RX8
I installed the RB suspension kit (sway bars and springs, didn't change the end links) in my 8 yesterday. Here are some notes from that installation:
Rear
1) The tools required list for the rear springs doesn't list a spring compressor obviously you need one, I got mine at Sears.
2) I removed the sway bar first, with the sway bar out I found I only had to remove the rear upper link retaining bolt in order to remove the shock assembly. This was nice since the front link bolt is a pain to get to.
3) Removing the bolt securing the ABS wire support just below the upper rear link gives more room to work without worrying about damaging the ABS sensor wire.
4) Modifying the bumper stops is a real pain, they are difficult to cut. I used a saw to cut them to length and then used a utility knife to shape them. They don't look very neat. I would be nice to either include modified stops in the kit or have the option to purchase them separately.
5) During re-assembly I used a floor jack under the lower shock mounting point to lift the spindle assembly slightly; this made it easier to position the rear upper link in the correct position to re-install the bolt.
6) After everything was assembled I used the jack to raise the spindle to point where the weight of the car just came off the jack stand. Be careful and leave the jack stand in place in case the jack slips. This raised the suspension to its normal position; I then torqued the upper link bolt and the lower shock bolt. It was much easier to access the bolts with the wheel still off.
7) I had one end link nut which refused to come off the rear sway bar. I tried using an Allen wrench to hold the bolt while turning the nut but just rounded points on the Allen wrench. I removed the other end of the end link and removed the sway bar with the end link attached. I then sprayed it with WD-40 and let it sit while I worked on the springs. When I tried it again it came right off. It might be a good idea to spray the end link nuts with WD-40 the day before you change out the sway bar.
8) Wear latex gloves when applying the grease to the sway bar bushings, that stuff is hard to get off your hands, soap and water doesn't remove it.
Front
1) The tools required list for the front springs doesn't list a spring compressor.
2) I removed the spring assemblies first, this made removing the sway bar much easier. Instead of having to push the bar into the under tray area in order to get the sway bar over the tie rod, as referenced in the instructions, I was able to just flip it around the other direction until it was in the correct position for removal.
3) Again removing the ABS wire supports gives more room to work without having to worry about damaging the wires. The plastic mount which secures the wire to the under tray just pops out.
4) Again modifying the bumper stops is a pain.
5) Similar to the rear I used a floor jack to raise the suspension to the point where the car just came off the jack stand and then tightened the upper A-frame bolts and the lower shock bolt.
Overall
Installation pretty much took the entire day from 10 AM to about 7PM working by myself without benefit of air tools (my arm is sore today from installing and removing that spring compressor 8 times). About 2 hours was spent trying to find a spring compressor, all the auto parts stores were out of stock and I ended up going to Sears, should have started there. All in all it was a nice day listening to the radio and bonding with the car
Rear
1) The tools required list for the rear springs doesn't list a spring compressor obviously you need one, I got mine at Sears.
2) I removed the sway bar first, with the sway bar out I found I only had to remove the rear upper link retaining bolt in order to remove the shock assembly. This was nice since the front link bolt is a pain to get to.
3) Removing the bolt securing the ABS wire support just below the upper rear link gives more room to work without worrying about damaging the ABS sensor wire.
4) Modifying the bumper stops is a real pain, they are difficult to cut. I used a saw to cut them to length and then used a utility knife to shape them. They don't look very neat. I would be nice to either include modified stops in the kit or have the option to purchase them separately.
5) During re-assembly I used a floor jack under the lower shock mounting point to lift the spindle assembly slightly; this made it easier to position the rear upper link in the correct position to re-install the bolt.
6) After everything was assembled I used the jack to raise the spindle to point where the weight of the car just came off the jack stand. Be careful and leave the jack stand in place in case the jack slips. This raised the suspension to its normal position; I then torqued the upper link bolt and the lower shock bolt. It was much easier to access the bolts with the wheel still off.
7) I had one end link nut which refused to come off the rear sway bar. I tried using an Allen wrench to hold the bolt while turning the nut but just rounded points on the Allen wrench. I removed the other end of the end link and removed the sway bar with the end link attached. I then sprayed it with WD-40 and let it sit while I worked on the springs. When I tried it again it came right off. It might be a good idea to spray the end link nuts with WD-40 the day before you change out the sway bar.
8) Wear latex gloves when applying the grease to the sway bar bushings, that stuff is hard to get off your hands, soap and water doesn't remove it.
Front
1) The tools required list for the front springs doesn't list a spring compressor.
2) I removed the spring assemblies first, this made removing the sway bar much easier. Instead of having to push the bar into the under tray area in order to get the sway bar over the tie rod, as referenced in the instructions, I was able to just flip it around the other direction until it was in the correct position for removal.
3) Again removing the ABS wire supports gives more room to work without having to worry about damaging the wires. The plastic mount which secures the wire to the under tray just pops out.
4) Again modifying the bumper stops is a pain.
5) Similar to the rear I used a floor jack to raise the suspension to the point where the car just came off the jack stand and then tightened the upper A-frame bolts and the lower shock bolt.
Overall
Installation pretty much took the entire day from 10 AM to about 7PM working by myself without benefit of air tools (my arm is sore today from installing and removing that spring compressor 8 times). About 2 hours was spent trying to find a spring compressor, all the auto parts stores were out of stock and I ended up going to Sears, should have started there. All in all it was a nice day listening to the radio and bonding with the car
08-29-2015, 04:53 AM
#3
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tools required
Could someone tell me what tools I need to put lowering springs onto my stock stuts front and back. what tools are needed, besides a spring compressor, jack, and jack stand's please let me know starting them tomorrow
08-29-2015, 01:06 PM
#4
A basic ratchet and breaker bar also a socket set with metric sockets. 10,12,14,17mm etc. Impact is helpful but not necessary.
A tip for the rears that I personally use is to unbolt the rear sway bar brackets on both sides and rotate the sway bar down.
It pulls the links downwards and creates alot more room to remove the rear shocks. Sometimes the rear links are seized and hard to take off so rather than take them off can rotate them out of the way.
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