Alignment Specs on our Race Car
#26
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Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
These guys have a terrible rep all over the Internet, I am starting to see why.
When you make blanket statements like "staggered is best for rwd" without any data points, testing or anything to back it up you open yourself up to ridicule.
When you make blanket statements like "staggered is best for rwd" without any data points, testing or anything to back it up you open yourself up to ridicule.
About not knowing what's right, that certainly comes from hanging out in 'ricer' circles ... don't hate
#27
Registered User
I would suggest (not hating :p ) a change in tires also... Only after knowing the offset of the wheels that vivid put on though
Actually, I'd get rid of the 235/35 in favor of a 245/35 to keep the rolling diameter closer to stock. That is ofcourse if the offset of the tire doesn't allow the same 275/30 19 (which is what I'd put.
Stiffening up the rear too much causes you to lose traction in the rear, okay for drifting, but from what I've seen of touge battles they're timed so traction is a good thing. It seems like you cut off a toe to fit a better shoe on your foot (not hating!!!). Also, the camber on the rear seems a bit much for the width of the tire and the toe is a bit off what I would do.
Your current set up seems to invite some bad understeer (Drift king is always bitchin "undah undah undah") with a potential for snap oversteer.
An AutoX set up is probably not the best for this application, but it be close due to the weight transitions you'll be making.
Actually, I'd get rid of the 235/35 in favor of a 245/35 to keep the rolling diameter closer to stock. That is ofcourse if the offset of the tire doesn't allow the same 275/30 19 (which is what I'd put.
Stiffening up the rear too much causes you to lose traction in the rear, okay for drifting, but from what I've seen of touge battles they're timed so traction is a good thing. It seems like you cut off a toe to fit a better shoe on your foot (not hating!!!). Also, the camber on the rear seems a bit much for the width of the tire and the toe is a bit off what I would do.
Your current set up seems to invite some bad understeer (Drift king is always bitchin "undah undah undah") with a potential for snap oversteer.
An AutoX set up is probably not the best for this application, but it be close due to the weight transitions you'll be making.
#28
Registered User
oh, and incase I wasn't clear... I want Vivid to kick *** and represent the 8! ...that and I'm very opinionated so if I can throw my 2 cents in, I'll throw a nickle
After watching the Drift King bad mouth the "slow 8" only to be surprised by it's handling... I really hope a boosted version with GREAT handling will shut him up.
...btw: if you can get the 4.77 final and some underdrive pullies, do it. (I'm at it again :o )
After watching the Drift King bad mouth the "slow 8" only to be surprised by it's handling... I really hope a boosted version with GREAT handling will shut him up.
...btw: if you can get the 4.77 final and some underdrive pullies, do it. (I'm at it again :o )
#29
Ya, I thought that was a little strange, wide tires and wheels with a staggered set up on a stock 8 with no RWP.
Sorry, but Vivid did well when I bought from them and I would recomend everyone to buy parts from them. Just make sure you know what you want, what you need, what works. Same goes for any purchase anywhere.
Sorry, but Vivid did well when I bought from them and I would recomend everyone to buy parts from them. Just make sure you know what you want, what you need, what works. Same goes for any purchase anywhere.
#31
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
Originally Posted by ULLLOSE
I can understand where you are coming from. On the other hand as a "vendor" here people are going to listen to them and assume they know what they are talking about.
kind of like a guy who doesn't have the fastest car but manages to win a National Championship, eh?
Last edited by TeamRX8; 10-21-2005 at 02:21 AM.
#32
Registered
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by BOOSTD 7
How about this, you're right ... I know it, you know it, guys with track experience know it. Instead of bashing them, how about get in touch with them. Let them pay you as a consultant to do their suspension setup. That way the 8 does better at the competition, and everybody is happy
Stagger is just a for looks thing 99% of the time. About the only time you 'need' it is if you're putting down something like 400hp at the wheels. And even then it's just for the street. The only cars running stagger in real racing are 911's, because they're so incredible tail happy and have all the weight back there.
Stagger is just a for looks thing 99% of the time. About the only time you 'need' it is if you're putting down something like 400hp at the wheels. And even then it's just for the street. The only cars running stagger in real racing are 911's, because they're so incredible tail happy and have all the weight back there.
#33
Ride Naked!
Originally Posted by tuj
Look at this picture here:
http://www.i-club.com/reviews/showpr...hp/product/386
The pair of slots in the center allow the top of the shock to move in towards the engine, increasing negative camber. Once this is set, a pin put into one of the series of holes determines caster. Thus caster should generally be set after camber, as what camber you have affects the max caster value, and camber is more important.
By rotating the wheel around an axis that is not perfectly vertical, we gain negative camber on the outside front wheel when we turn in, which is very nice. BTW: OEM adjustment is usually via eccentric bushings, not sweet plates like the one in that pic.
http://www.i-club.com/reviews/showpr...hp/product/386
The pair of slots in the center allow the top of the shock to move in towards the engine, increasing negative camber. Once this is set, a pin put into one of the series of holes determines caster. Thus caster should generally be set after camber, as what camber you have affects the max caster value, and camber is more important.
By rotating the wheel around an axis that is not perfectly vertical, we gain negative camber on the outside front wheel when we turn in, which is very nice. BTW: OEM adjustment is usually via eccentric bushings, not sweet plates like the one in that pic.
#34
Originally Posted by Dark8
You forgot to say that camber plates are only good for strut suspension and will make no difference when used on an RX-8.
(scroll down to the camber plates near the bottom).
Last edited by tuj; 10-20-2005 at 12:32 PM.
#35
Originally Posted by tuj
Wrong.
http://www.shaneracing.com/RX8_Perfo...ion_Parts.html
(scroll down to the camber plates near the bottom).
http://www.shaneracing.com/RX8_Perfo...ion_Parts.html
(scroll down to the camber plates near the bottom).
Just because someone sells something...oh, wait...we're not supposed to talk like that. :x
#36
Ride Naked!
Originally Posted by tuj
Wrong.
http://www.shaneracing.com/RX8_Perfo...ion_Parts.html
(scroll down to the camber plates near the bottom).
http://www.shaneracing.com/RX8_Perfo...ion_Parts.html
(scroll down to the camber plates near the bottom).
#38
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Originally Posted by alnielsen
When I brought this up, I wasn't trying to bash the guy. I mearly wanted to know his thoughts on how he came up with this combination. I don't have a great deal of experiance with them, but Vivid has done right by me. They treated me well on the set of swaybars I just bought. Price was good and they were shipped promptly.
#39
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Just to be clear also, I also wasn't going after them or implying as such. I really was just curious about their set-up and how they came to it. I'm trying to learn the aspects of fine suspension tuning and am finding it more complex than I first suspected.
#40
Ride Naked!
Originally Posted by tuj
Actually, they will alter geometry. If you move the top mounting point of the shock inboard, you lower the car, which will gain camber by the design of the suspension.
Edit: And some of us can't accept we are being poked with a sharp stick....
#41
05-08 SCCA BS Natl Champ
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by tuj
Actually, they will alter geometry. If you move the top mounting point of the shock inboard, you lower the car, which will gain camber by the design of the suspension.
This is what I was talking about, because someone sells a part people think it works. The performance aftermarket industry has the worst customer service, that company is misleading buyers. It is a rare day when you find a good shop to deal with, if you have found one hold on to them.
I dont think Shane Racing is a site vendor, so we can pick on them..... I mean speak the truth.
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