ja9^

Hi.
I Cleaned my throttle body the other day. got rid of the (carbon?) leftovers and had id looking nice and blank (and dry) before putting everything back on.

When I started it up afterwords it jumped immediatly up to 3k+ and sloowly sank downwards to about 1100. but it is jumping from 1500 to 1100 regularly, when cold and warm.
If i push a bit at the throttle t rpm's go up as normal but on the way down it touches 1100-then goes up to 1500-and then slowly goes down to +/-1100.
Before the operation it idled steady at 950 or so, but with some vibration. now the vibration is gone because of the high idle.
My car is parked in a garasje where it never gets really cold. The worst thing about this is the high idle at startup. u can tell the enginen is not liking it.. :S

What could be the causes of this? have driving it farely long after the operation and have reset the computers.

anyone?

its an 04 with 78000km. new engine 14000 ago.

bse50

Does the throttle body closes as it should? You probably just have to readjust it but i would try to reset the ecu first.

ja9^

i havent checked if it closes properly.. is that possible at all? and the ecu has been reset, same **** afterwards.
If i have the foot on the gas carefully under 2k rpm it is very bouncy, like an on/off-movement.. :S

anyone have ideas?

bse50

If you didn't play with the sensors (MAF\IAT), if you reconnected every hose properly etc the fact that it doesn't close properly (or that it stays partially open) is one of the very few chances that i'm aware of.

ja9^

how can I safely check that it closes properly? should it be completely closed? cause when i had it out, there were small glitches on both sides..
?

bse50

What do you mean by glitches? Anyway i can't recall how closed is "closed" for the throttle body, don't you remember how it was when you dismounted it?
I sent you a private message by the way

ja9^

its like it doesnt fit "perfectly". like it is designed to let a bit of air get through when its "closed".
Should it be completely closed?... I belivie it was the same when i dismounted it but i removed some **** so the airflow through it could have been a little bit better afterwords..

I saw ur pm I'll have to check it out first.

bse50

I don't remember it but it should be built in a way where if completely closed some air passes to let the engine idle.
Are all the vacuum hoses tightened properly?

rotaryPilot

Do the following steps

- Unplug your battery and let it off for at least half an hour.
- Plug your battery and reset your ECU (a) odometer pressed ignition on position until you see ‘code” b) and break petal process, 20 break petal press [ignition on] until oil pressure moves)


I think that you should be ok after those resets

ja9^

isnt it enough with doing the pedal-thing and the odometer-thing?

swoope

iTrader: (5)

no,

and check you maf connection..

and also see if it does it with the clutch pushed in..

beers

ja9^

Hi again.
I just did what u said and the car feels very different. When i first startet it it maxed out at about 2400rpm and climbed downwards.. the driving and feel of the car an the accelerator was much nicer..
Its clear that it has to relearn because everything came up blinking and **** at first, but its all gone now.

Havent driven it so far yet so ill get back if there are problems occuring.

thanks for the help

ThomasThicc

I don't understand exactly what you're saying? May you please clarify. "- Plug your battery and reset your ECU (a) odometer pressed ignition on position until you see ‘code” b) and break petal process, 20 break petal press [ignition on] until oil pressure moves)"

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

go here instead

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...memory-169443/