Well that's not a warm start issue then. More likely flooded. Was the car warmed up before you switched it off?

 

It could also be, that the early starter motor is shot, and the battery as well.
I upgraded to the latest starter, then the Interstate dealership replaced battery failed the very next day. Since I have replaced both the starter, and the battery(2nd time), one of the biggest joys is starting the car. Faster starts than any car I have ever owned. I let it sit for weeks at a time on a battery tender. Then, when I start it, it is ZOOM ZOOM instantly. Don't overlook this. Upgrade the starter, make sure the battery is 100%. Enjoy.

 

I use mobile1 5w20 in my 8 car runs great no problems with warm starting. Had the engine die on me used seafoam in the maintenance ports and finally started put out quite a smoke cloud and I noticed a decrease in power. Installed a k&n cold air intake to make up for it. But about the oil 10w40 is too thick when winter hits you'll have twice the trouble starting it. Car is great just gotta take daily care of it. Thanks for all the posts and extra help forum!

 

Considering the average temps in Kansas city a 10w40 is not too thick at all.
Making up for the lost power by adding something and not solving the problem seems like an intelligent way to work on a car! The K&N hot air intake is also a very smart choice, compliments!

 

The problem is low compression I'm sure and I dont know if my extended warranty covers a new engine.. Hopefully it does.. Give me some more info on the oil.. I thought an 8 could only use 5w20. And is there a way to increase compression without going to the dealer for a new engine?

 

Try new plugs - old plugs make it very slow to fire up.....

S

 

there's no way to restore the compression if the engine is worn. If it is clogged up with carbon you can either seafoam or steam clean it.
5w20 is definitely not the only weight you can use
I would perform a compression test before trying anything else and then try to seafoam or steam clean the engine after it.
As Stealth says an unhealthy ignition system can give problems and will definitely play a part in carbon build up

 

Hey all, I've recently developed a hard starting issue. But it's not just when warm, it's all the time. It doesn't matter if it's a completely cold motor or after a highway drive for 4 hours. It takes ~10-15 seconds to start. Every now and again it will fire right up no problem at all. The plugs were just done in May along with the BHR ignition. Fuel pump was just replaced as well with a BHR unit. Once the engine starts it idles smooth and feels fine throughout the RPM range with no lose of power felt and the motor has 103K on it.

Any help or direction you guys can give me I'd greatly appreciate!!

 

When I drive down the highway with DSC on three lights eventually light up, ABS, E-brake, and TCS/DSC indicator. If I turn off the DSC then they stay off, fluid levels are all good any suggestions before I take her to the dealer?

 

Wheel speed sensors aren't showing the same wheel speed at each axle. Usually, this is how ABS, TCS, and DSC are triggered, depending on what it sees. However, if it continually sees different speed, and you clearly aren't in trouble because of your small steering inputs and constant speeds, then it assumes there is something wrong with the system, so goes into a fault mode and disables all of them, rather than risk suddenly locking up one or more wheels unexpectedly.

This usually occurs if you have a difference in rotating circumference between each of your wheels, i.e., one or more wheels have to rotate more per mile than others, so it reads a higher axle speed. Extreme differences in tread wear can be enough to trigger it, though usually it is just a difference in wheel or tire size.

 

My issue is somewhat simliar. I live in Texas and the cold weather is going away, of course my car had trouble starting in the cold. I always turned the key for 3 sec. then try again to avoid flooding. That always works. But now the weather is warm and my car is starting to have trouble turning over. Just to throw out there, today my gas pedal feels stiffer then usual. At first it seemed like it about to turn over, but it doesn't. I try the second time and it struggles a sec, and then turns over. I've had my engine changed 3 times and learned a few lessons, rev the engine (redline) to eliminate the carbon build up. Been doing that since, so It can't be compression cuz I know when there is a compression problem. Was about to change the coils, sparks, and wires, but the unthinkable happen: I got fired. So self preservation comes to mind. From what I was about to purchased, can anybody tell me if I'm was going the right direction.

 

Since this is the warm start thread I'll try to stay on topic.

I cannot prove this, because I never actually performed a test on it. My feeling though, on the early starter (pre 06), is that it's not only seriously inferior, but that when it gets hot from engine heat it's efficiency drops even lower, because of increased resistance, and resulting less current/less torque/less rpm. If you have an 04,05, possibly some 06's model, I'd be certain that starter is the latest, and greatest. The battery also plays a huge role in this. Do not assume your battery is just fine. Mine was a dealer replaced Interstate, maybe a year and a half old, and I suspected it was weak, even though testing showed it was ok. Then suddenly just failed miserably flat, dead, right after I upgraded to the latest starter.

If you have the OLD STARTER, replace it.


Roto

 

I just had this issue with mine... and it was low compression. I would get it compression tested, if you haven't already (i didn't read the whole thread) so you know what you are dealing with here before you start spending money on replacing other stuff.

just my $0.02

 

Just had a quick look at the thread!
Had exactly the same problem in my 04 RX8, took it back to the garage fearing that the engine would need replacing and was told by the dealer that it was a faulty starter motor that was not turning the engine over quick enough when it was warm.
It always started fine first time when cold but struggled when up to temp!
Since new starter motor its not missed a beat!

 

hey guys. i have the warm start issue. everything else is fine. anytime i shut it off, it takes about 15 minutes to start it back up. just cranks and cranks like its out of gas. then finally barely turns over. so i am taking to the dealership tomorrow. going to have a diagnostics done to see if there is any problems ($95). then they will also do a compression test ($75). i am due for a new set of plugs and coils. also thinkin i should get a new starter. but the service writer said not to change any parts until they do their tests. i'll update you guys afterwards.

any suggestions for me when i take it in?

 

Get the compression test first. You don't need new ignition components for that. The temps in Portland don't get cold enough for you to need the newer starter.
I still think you'll find you have low compression.

 

they said they need to do all the testing to find out the problem. but i am pretty sure it is the compression just from what i have read here. i am no mechanic though. if its bad compression, does that automatically get you a new engine under warranty?

 

also, what parts go bad and need to be replaced that makes the compression drop? i am going to get a new battery since its two years old. so they cant blame it on the battery. i've heard people say they run into issues at the dealerships because of k&n air filters. should i buy a stock one before i go into the dealership or leave in my k&n air filter?

if it was the battery or the plugs or wires, wouldn't it cause problems during COLD starting as well? the only time it doesnt want to start is during warm or hot starting.

 

No, some people have been refused due to bad record keeping (oil changes).
Compression is all due to internal parts going bad. There is nothing a normal person can do to correct this. A bad battery wouldn't allow the car to turn-over fast enough or long enough to perform the compression test. I don't remember reading anything about warranties being voided because of K&N air filters. Bad ignition parts should affect cold starts more than warm.

 

well...i will be joining the New Engine Club sometime next week. The Mazda Dealer told me they ordered a new engine and it should be here in a week or so, and then it should take a day to install once it arrives. they allowed me to pick up my car and continue to drive it until they receive the new engine. i'm pretty excited and very grateful that Mazda is replacing it. the service writer said it would have cost about $6k to do the work.

i'm wondering about the warranty....is there a standard warranty for the replacement engines?? same as the original (100k) or what???

 

Decarbonized my engine and it couldn't be any better, but after a couple of weeks I started to notice that my acceleration is starting to get slow. I guess I would say a loss of power. I've always redline and let me car warm up before taking off. What could it be? Sparks? Coils?

 

Well I finally got my car back over two weeks later after being told they would have it at most 3 days. But I am taking it back, because there is a very loud rattle or ticking noise.


Has anyone sold their car after getting a new engine?

 

well everything seems to be working great. starts and runs perfectly. the ticking noise i heard was the lip on the crankshaft pulley hitting something. HE SAID it is very common during shipping for that to happen and the mechanic knew exactly what it was when he heard it.

i just hope i dont have problems in the near future.

he wouldnt tell me if there was a warranty or not on the engine or on the service.

THANK YOU MAZDA

 

If you had a warranty on your car, it is still in effect, covering your new engine as part of that warranty. When it ends, so does your newly replaced engine warranty. A different situation exists if you purchase an engine, or parts, then you get a new warranty for those items only. Parts/assemblies replaced under a warranty, do not get a new warranty, unless you get paperwork that proves otherwise. This seems to be a common hopeful line of thinking, that you somehow get a warranty extension when something gets replaced under warranty. No warranty extensions, unless you get it in writing.


Roto

 

dam lol.