DR04RX8

That's what i was talking about with the coupler going inside instead of going over.

GK1707

iTrader: (10)

That's really weird^ There should be a bump coupler their and it should be connecting the piping from the outside.

And the VFAD nipple is right under the upper intake manifold to the right of the throttle body. There might be black tubing still connected to it if you didnt delete your VFAD yet.

DR04RX8

Yea that's what i was thinking. I had called the place but they said that's the way it's suppose to go. But i bought new NGK plugs as well, i installed the coils yesterday. And what are some good wires (not too extreme)? And what are the proper size for the plugs and the torque for then to be adjusted?

DR04RX8

See no VFAD. Haha, is that bad?

HexRX

Automatic 04's did not come with VFAD, it seems fine, BUT your intake should have an outer coupler on it, why is it tucked inside?!

DR04RX8

Idk why it's tucked in. That's what it came with when i ordered it from AEM. I had called and they toldmethat's how it suppose to go, bit the person who answered didn't seem too sure about his answer. Should i change it?

tza0001

iTrader: (2)

I bet your issue is the way the intake is installed. Looks terrible Take it apart and reinstall it. Also make sure that all the screens (inside the intake) are placed correctly. I don't even know how the installer was able to put the coupler inside the tube. As far as plug wires you can use OEM (NGK)

DR04RX8

Lol thanks bro xD i installed it :P but that was the only way that coupler would go on. But i don't mind redoing it haha. And i doubt it cuz even with the factory filter it had the code. And can you tell me torque required for the plug and the gap?

GK1707

iTrader: (10)

You can torque the spark plugs hand tight with the socket then a half turn after that.. Their already pre-gapped. No need to gap them.

Prism11

iTrader: (1)

Hope you have your flame suit ready. haha, always double check the gap on plugs. Those boxes get tossed around everywhere, and those tangs can easy get bent and need re-gapped.

I have had misfires from plugs that were incorrectly gapped. Pulled them, re-gapped them, re-installed. No more misfires. It turns out to be pretty critical with this car.

GK1707

iTrader: (10)

I installed mine with the factory pre-gap.. Not a misfire in over 4k miles since my last tune up

DR04RX8

Well just in case, what would the gap be?

tza0001

iTrader: (2)

Dude the way you have installed the intake is wrong. The coupler you have at the bottom needs to go at the throttle body. The one you currently have at your throttle body needs to go at the bottom. Couplers are not supposed to go inside the tubes...I am still pretty sure that this is your issue.

DR04RX8

It is? That's what the instruction told me how it went. I still have the box with the instruction, I'll take a look at it once i get home. And i fixed the coupler on the bottom, may still be wrong but i put it overlapping the pipe. But I'll check the instructions again. Haha, sorry if I'm being annoying man xD

DR04RX8

Nvm, you're right. I got those couplers backwards! Time to change them.

DR04RX8

Switched them, made sure everything was secure. CEL still came back on. Looks like I'll be doing the waiting game for the wires to come in, then doing the job.

tza0001

iTrader: (2)

Your p2259 code is not going to go away until you take care of the solenoid (it might need to be replaced or cleaned). You do not have to worry much about it as it only works during warm up. Many people including myself have ignored this code with no issues. I had this code for about two years. I decided to replace the solenoid as I moved in a state with emissions testing

As far as p0300, as I told you before you need to make sure your ignition is good. Test the coils and inspect the plugs. I would also clean the maf, ess, reset ess, and also check your cat.

DR04RX8

Well so far, the p0300 is gone, i got it checked twice today at auto zone and out came back two p2259. I cleaned the MAF, when i changed the couplers and it was dirty. And that sensor you're telling me about, is that the purge selinoid valve?

tza0001

iTrader: (2)

Read this thread for locating and cleaning ess: https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...eaning-206687/
You do not have to take it out to clean it. Just swipe it with a cloth. To reset it, turn your key to the "on position" and pump your brake 20 times really fast (it needs to be done within 8 seconds). You should see your gauges move.

As far as your p2259 here is some info: https://www.rx8club.com/trouble-shoo...lenoid-171612/
This code is not a big deal, as the solenoid and air pump only work when the car is warming up. You should avoid though warming up the car idling. After your rpms drop a bit just drive it gently. The solenoid is behind the throttle body. Some people including my wife are able to reach it without taking anything apart. To change the solenoid you just need to take the upper intake manifold out of the way. Read the thread above and you should have some good info around it.

DR04RX8

Thanks man! I'll check both of then once i get the chance. I'll clean the ESS and I'll see what effects it has. Also on the way to work, i usually redline it and i noticed that by like 3rd gear (auto) it had trouble getting to 6k and i felt it just lose power completely. This is like the 4th time it's done it. Any ideas??

tza0001

iTrader: (2)

Most likely it is your ignition, cat, or fuel pump. Please check your ignition (inspect the plugs and test the coils). Ignition components in our car last around 25k to 30k miles. I know you said that your coils have 15k miles and the plugs are new but that does not rule out the fact that your coils (or some of them) might be shot.

I would also check the cat (do this immediately as it is super bad to run the car with a clogged cat). There are a few different ways to do that. After driving the car hard for a bit look underneath the car. If the cat glows red you got a cat issue (you got to do this in a complete dark area or else you wont see any glow). You could also pull the cat out and see how it looks inside. If the material is melted or has holes, cat is bad. You could also use a flashlight and see if the light goes through the other side.

FYI cats have an 8 year/80k mile warranty. I think you said somewhere your car has 72k miles. So if you are still in the 8 year period, take it to a dealer and tell them to inspect visually your cat. If they tell you they can run a test and see if the cat is within specs tell them that you also want a visual inspection of the cat. Sometimes cats pass the test although they are bad...Maybe they could also test your coils and let you know if they are good or need to be replaced.

DR04RX8

Well coils are new i changed them like 3 days ago, I'm waiting on the wires to change the plugs and wires. And yea i have 71,xxx but the dealer said any kind of warranty the car had it's void because it's a blue title rebuild. And once i clean the ESS, change my plus and wires. I'll run it hard to see what it does and then I'll look underneath to see if it's glowing. And I've put a towel on each exhaust tip and there's a good constant flow.

DR04RX8

http://static.photobucket.com/player...ps7a8eeab5.mp4

DR04RX8

That's the buzzing sound, and at like 6500 rpm i lose power. And i tab out hard a before this vid, and checked the catty to see if it was glowing red, but it wasn't. It was a little red from what i saw tho.

DR04RX8

And this morning it was working perfect, better than before cuz i slightly cleaned the ess. I reached 115 mph on 3rd. Now I'm hitting around 97 again.