LytHka

iTrader: (4)

So I just had a new engine put in a couple weeks ago and ever since then the transmission has felt kind of off.

Every time I launch I get this vibration and it's not a smooth engagement like it used to be. Also, the transmission is extremely notchy when it's cold, so much that I have to almost force it in and out of gear...

Does the dealer have to drain the transmission fluid during an engine swap? What else could it be causing the notchiness? And why does my clutch feels so damn weird now...

Also I get the P0410 and P0037 codes now when I didn't before but that's a topic for another thread...

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Do they have to drain the fluids? unless they hold the tranny all the way with a Transmission holder, otherwise they have to drain it. if not when they remove the drive shaft, the tranny fluid gonna come out from that end and it's going to be pretty messy.

you might wanna readjust your clutch pedal every time the transmission has been removed.

and if they did drain your Tranny fluids (very likely), depends on what they did, hmm, one of the following
- drain ur fluid and kept it at some container
- drain it and give u brand new fluid

if it's the first one, is the container clean? most likely not and ur tranny fluid gonna be bad.

if it's the 2nd one, what did they use

but the most important question is, did it fill it back to the proper level ?

this is the reason why I do these work myself, if I'm busy, I make sure I WATCH them do it.

just remember, no one gives a **** about your car more than yourself.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Mazda has a service tool that plugs the driveshaft end just for that purpose so it's hard to say if they changed the oil or not. The oil should have been listed on the service report if they did.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

As the suspicious type, I would be the one checking to see if they put some back in.

GK1707

iTrader: (10)

I would've changed the tranny fluid anyway just for piece of mind after they installed the reman.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

Um,

Does your reverse lockout still work? If it does not, they put the shifter in wrong...

LytHka

iTrader: (4)

Yes my reverse lockout works.

Shifting smooths out as the tranny warms up so I'm pretty sure they put some fluid back in, but to the proper level who knows? And what kind. Probably some shitty gear oil, ie. whatever they had laying around.

Anyway I'll put some Redline in. It just sucks cause I had just replaced the clutch 4 months ago w/ new tranny fluid and it felt great. Now it vibrates on launch and shifts like crap.

Could the vibration be because of a new flywheel on the reman? Maybe it'll go away in time...

McKennaR

iTrader: (1)

Is it a vibration that you'd feel if you had a warped flywheel during clutch operation (i.e. in all gears you'll get a shake as you take your foot off of the clutch)?

Or is it a vibration like you're rolling at 5mph in 1st and you go hard into the loud pedal and the driveline starts to "lurch" until you get above 3k rpm or so?

If it isn't the clutch itself, look at PPF alignment and check to see if they retorqued your engine mounts correctly.

Re: notchiness in the gearbox, mine was like that after my swap until I put the proper level of the correct gear oil into it. You can check your fluid level with the car on level ground if you have long, skinny arms and the correct tools. Follow the FSM procedure to do this.

Re: clutch feeling "weird" make sure it's bled properly.

j9fd3s

changing the trans fluid depends on how they took the engine out.

the guy at my local dealership, takes the engine only out from the top, so the trans stays, and he doesn't have to mess with the fluids.

my #2 car is from a different area, and i think they took the engine and transmission out from the bottom, as its on engine #3, and the hood hasn't been off, and the PPF was adjusted completely wrong.

the other things, mentioned previously, is the clutch freeplay adjustment, its off. its wrong on every Rx8, it was off before they started, its off now...

if they took the thing apart really badly you might have to take it back and have them bleed the clutch.

LytHka

iTrader: (4)

It's a vibration like at a certain point in pedal travel when I'm launching from a stop it will vibrate until the clutch is fully engaged. Maybe that means warped flywheel. They did put a new motor mount in so maybe that was installed improperly.

I'll eventually get them to bleed the clutch for me and adjust the pedal.

j9fd3s

did you buy a new clutch?

McKennaR

iTrader: (1)

Aftermarket clutch by any chance? You can have a smooth as glass flywheel & PP but if you have a puck style clutch it'll always vibrate a bit during engagement.

Once you've ruled out external factors (PPF alignment, pedal adjustment, bleeding, engine mount, etc) as mentioned above, it's time to start taking things apart.

LytHka

iTrader: (4)

No, I had a used stock clutch put in about 4 months ago which felt fine until they put the reman in. Which leads me to believe it's something else, like any of those things mentioned above ^

Time for a trip to the dealer. I believe they also must have nicked the wiring harness to my rear O2 sensor since the P0037 code comes on immediately after it's been cleared.

McKennaR

iTrader: (1)

Good luck, let us know what they find...

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I know about that tool, but it doesn't mean they will use it.

Mr.Mango

iTrader: (2)

They possibly did not install the PPF (Power Plant Frame) correctly, your supposed to mark it and install in the exact same spot. This can cause vibrations & shifting issues as described.

For your CELs, P0410 is the air pump - check connections, possibly disconnected & did not reconnect most techs take it out for some reason I dont even remove the pump when replacing engines, P0037 is your rear O2 sensor as mentioned.

LytHka

iTrader: (4)

I'll get them to check the PPF alignment, as for the air pump it is actually connected and it comes on when I cold start the car, but the CEL keeps coming on.

I think the P0037 and P0410 are related since they are part of the same system. The P0037 comes on immediately every time after it's cleared so I think the wiring harness was nicked when they reinstalled my engine.

LytHka

iTrader: (4)

For anyone interested here's a little update:

1.) The cause of my clutch feeling weird was due to the fact that my clutch pedal bracket was about to fail. It was flexing while depressing the clutch pedal which manifested itself as a vibration during a launch from full stop.

2.) My shifting problem was also solved with a new clutch pedal. Because the bracket was flexing on my failing clutch pedal, it wasn't fully disengaging the clutch causing shifting to feel extremely notchy. I adjusted the push rod to compensate and it felt like my transmission was new again, then the bracket snapped that night. Go figure. Enter the BHR welded clutch pedal, and it feels rock solid.

3.) The P0410 code was caused by the vacuum line from the UIM to the ACV solenoid not being connected after the dealer put my new engine in, and that also caused my SSV not to actuate. I reconnected that vac line and it solved my SSV problems and the P0410 code, but my air pump ended up getting deleted anyway

Now I just have to figure out why the P0037 CEL is always on. It never turns off by itself like it used to after a few drive cycles. That didn't happen before.