Footman

iTrader: (2)

I don't have an inductive timing light.

-=drift=-

Lol, no-one has one. Only guys who race ol' V8's do.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5naJ9Eb2R1U

This was on May 10th at Mosport. A friend was behind me video-taping it. On the straight sections coming out of the apex of the corner, you can hear my raspy exhaust note, like misfires...

> MAO <

Do you premix? If you don't premix, try premixing and see if it ceases. If the noise goes away and you notice no power loss, then it can be an oil injection problem (maybe due to poor oil injection). How is your oil consumption? If you burn little/no oil at all, then you can have some injectors clogged or something in the omp going bad... and this can cause 1) rattling and loss of power and 2) bad engine in the long term...

Try premixing atleast 200cc/8oz and see if it solves. Then you know it's a matter of oil injection.

If you are already premixing and you still have that problem, then you probably will need a new engine sooner or later :-/

Footman

iTrader: (2)

I've never premixed since I've owned the car. The car was bought brand new. Only used Shell V-power 91. Oil changed every 4000km. The coils/plugs/wires changed 10,000km ago. No CEL misfires.

Oil does get consumed, so I don't think it's the injectors. On that track day, I was on the track for only about 20 minutes, spending time mostly between 5000 - 9000 rpm, and I used the first 1/4 mark on the oil dipstick.

Recently put in 1 can of BG44K, I've never used that before, should I put a 2nd can to clean it some more?

Maries8

Might the behavior of the electronics change when heated?

I'm chasing a similar problem. Car is fine when cold, but faint raspy noise and slight loss of power above 3-4,000 rpm after driving it awhile.

Going to change coils and plugs and see.

Bladecutter

Now that's not true.

Coils can and do exhibit issues only when hot, when the windings inside are starting to fail. I've seen this countless times in other applications.

BC.

Bladecutter

That's not true, either.
I think I have 4 of the buggers.

One here in Colorado.
One at my sister's place in NYC.
And two up in Canada at my parent's house.

And I've never owned a V-8.

They are great tools for chasing down misfires and bad coils, however.

BC.

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

I have one too. The only thing I can think of to use it for anymore is to track down a misfire.

Manic Mechanic

Most of the video clips you link to are mine, rotary specialist says it sounds like pinking but it isn't.

Check your SSV and VDI valves - do they have play in them both radially and axially - i.e. can you move the shafts up and down or in and out? The SSV valve on mine is quite loose and curently the prime suspect. Makes quite a clatter if you move it about.

ODDDOOD

iTrader: (3)

I didn't see this post linked anywhere...I think this is possibly what you are dealing with? Or maybe it is along the same lines?

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/noise-loss-power-202296/

I had almost the exact same symptoms. I bought 2 cans of seafoam. I used one like the directions on here direct you to do.

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ht=seafoam+diy

Then I put a whole can of seafoam in the gas-tank for the next fill-up.

I noticed an improvement the next day. I have since traveled about 1,000 miles and I just get a few hints of the rasp, but mostly they go away after driving it a while. I also had my coolant flushed after the seafoam. I don't know if that helped, but it definitely didn't hurt...and I'm at 90,000 miles on the original engine.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone know the terminals on the coil and what it is assigned to, and what firing voltage is required?

I want to take the set out, manually hook each set up to 12V battery, then apply the firing voltage to the 3rd terminal and see the jump on the sparkplug.

I figure this is one true way to test it.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

I will try to check the SSV and VDI actuators. I'm trying to do it without dismantling too many things because doing that might introduce other problems putting it back together.

Chances are, I can't get to the engine parts when they are hot. If this is heat related (because the symptoms occur after extended drive), and it is indeed the SSV/VDI actuators, there is no way I could tell because with heat things expand and contract when cold. Thus when its cold while I check it, there maybe no play or anything wrong at all.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

Can a small leak right at the MAF sensor cause these conditions? I just looked carefully at the MAF sensor and discovered that one of the screws no longer has thread biting onto the plastic intake tube. Seems the thread on the plastic is done. Anyway to fix this without having to buy a new intake box?

Manic Mechanic

It's not the SSV and VDI actuators you need to check, it's the valves themselves in the intake manifold. You can check them hot or cold without getting burned.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

How to check the valves? Do I have to take off the plastic intake (black assembly) to get at it? THat's a bitch to check!

I also replaced the 6 x 1/2 metal screws that were stripping the plastic intake housing with 6 x 3/4 metal screws and now the seal is TIGHT!

-=drift=-

Footman, there are 2 you can easily check.

Stand by the passenger side tire. put your right hand under the black plastic intake. youll feel actuator, kinda hamburger shaped. feel around to the end of the rod, and there should be a little flappy thing you can push on.

The 2nd one is close to it, theres a hole in the large mass of wires, you have to poke your hand in there pretty deep, but its the same deal.


Mine were a bit sticky, but I seafoamed and moved them till they were all good again. They should push and spring back with great ease, there should require next to no effect to move them.

Manic Mechanic

The secondary shutter valve on mine may well be fuggered, I don't think movement and noise like this is normal. It opens and closes ok, but is loose as hell:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UahOn-XS_m4