I have read the pages but still not much reassured, called jiffy lube told them whats up the guy said it might be be water mixed with the oil and the oil level might be low already that's why it's making that "white foam" on the dipstick or you guys call it CGOD right? But I just checked it on cold temp wiped it several times to get a clean look , it was only about 1/8 away from the max ..is it because I'm using 5-w30 ? Its been 510 miles since I put oil in it, car has 70k miles on it '04 year. Thanks I appreciate an answer lol

 

Its not because your using 5w-30. Its simple heat transfer thermodynamics. Where the dip stick is located is at a cooler temperature then the oil actually in the engine. this causes naturally occuring moisture in the oil to congeale there at the dipstick. There is mulitple threads here covering that aspect of the design in even more detail. You can have a completely full and still see this. However if you need more reassurance you can always take an oil sample the next time you change your oil and send it off to blackstone for analysis that should give you the warm fuzzy you are looking for lol.

 

Okay thanks, thats good hahah thx a lot zoomiezoom I thought it was a bad thing, I should as well visit a rotary specialist to get a check up, haven't had it for my 8 since I bought it.... 2 months ago :p

 

Its ok its all part of the new to rotary paranoia. So much negative press out there every little nuiance and were scared to death we are gonna be one of the unlucky ones. Two easy indicators to look for to tell you if you got a problem brewing is the idle is off or your power profile changes those two are you generally your first indicators something is amiss.

 

I have the same problem with cream on the dipstck.
I live in the UK and I like your rx8 club.
If I have a problem with my car this site is the first place I look.
I am thinking of putting a pipe on the tube,and run it to a small plastic bottle.
If you have a better way let me know.
Philip Mansell uk

 

If no one's said it recently, there's a Mazda TSB for this:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/tsbs-technical-service-bulletins-183774/

Go to post #8 and click MILKY SUBSTANCE ON OIL LEVEL GAUGE.

 

I know about the TSB; however, right around 155,000 miles is when I initially noticed the sweet smell out of my exhaust, then the low coolant fluid leve,l and the sediments in the tank... And the "GUNK".

As Easy E1 and Jedi said:

 

Hey guys,
Living in ottawa ontario Canaadadadadada (EH~!). Ive been getting this issue as well. Dont sweat it. Drove my 8 through a winter and same thing happens when temps start hitting -10C...summer hits and not an issue at all. The wild temps weve been getting (I think in jan mid month we had a +5C day...) it gets super gunky and I agree with ChrisW...just keep whiping your sticks to get a level. SALL GOOD~!

 

I have attached a pic of the "gunk" on my dipstick. The car just went through a WI winter. I lived in Louisville, Ky last summer and never had the problem. It was very warm there though. I might need another engine swap. This engine seems to be losing some power. I am due for an oil change so I will do that and watch the oil levels if I am able to with the gunk.

 

It's moisture build up in the oil due to condensation. You need to warm up the car and drive it for a longer period of time to get the moisture to evaporate and leave the system.
It's not likely to do any damage to the engine.

 

The trouble can come if the water freezes. While the principle is simple, heating your oil enough to boil the water out of it fully is very tough.

 

or... frequently change the oil, then as New Yorker had pointed out, do the TSB:

 

The TSB is the best solution. However, I was quoted ~$600 for the part and 2hrs labor making the total ~$800. My memory is a bit foggy as that was a long time ago. It might have been $600 including labor. In any case, I thought it was a lot of money for something minor that could theoretically (!!) be fixed by driving fast and hard to make heat.

Then again my engine failed compression and was replaced under warranty about 6 months later haha. Maybe that's the real lesson: If you have the "gunk", make sure to also do regular compression checks!

 

Random oil question i know that rotaries burn oil and gas like a 2 cycle engine however i was wondering if the Renesis burns more oil than a REW or another 13b ive just noticed when i drive my 7 my oil barely gets low and with my 8 i feel like every month or less im adding 1/2 a quart or less b/c my oil light trips. I have checked for leaks and i did have one from one of the lines going to my oil cooler but i fixed that and its been months since then and i havent had any other leaks but still burn through oil like crazy. It never smokes so i know it isnt anything in the engine. Does anyone else have this problem? or heard of it?

 

I have had this problem all the time.
I got fedup having to wipe the dip stick all the time.
So I took out the d/s and put a 18 inch garden hose over the d/s tube,it acts like a breather.
No problem now

 

I have had this problem all the time.
I got fedup having to wipe the dip stick all the time.
So I took out the d/s and put a 18 inch garden hose over the d/s tube,it acts like a breather.
No problem now

 

you should never drive your 8 until the oil light comes on. check the oil every other fill up

 

i do now that was when i first got it and even when it did come on and i looked at the dipstick it wasnt terribly low just needed a little bit.

 

oil catch can, i installed my never had this issue again....

 

^ Well, it's not like the temp there drops below 40°F and if you notice, just this page alone, most posts who experience the "GUNK" reside where the cold weather precipitates.

 

I experienced this issue in Florida, it did get cold sometimes early in the morning. But once I installed my catch can never have had any issues since not hard to do and pretty cheap. And keeps my oil clean and free of moisture

 

Took off my UIM today to replace my clutch slave cylinder, and found all this gunk. Its coming from where the oil filler neck goes down and connects into the crankcase. It seems like the typical gunk/buildup on top of the dipstick on hot humid days. But check how much of it there is. Im thinking of cleaning it with brake cleaner but how can this much buildup be prevented.

 

It can be avoided by avoiding short trips and making sure you oil is fully up to temp before shutting down. You would be surprised to know how long it takes oil to get up to the recommended operating temperature (typically 180-200F).

 

Looks like the drips... Need a Rocephin shot?

 

Gotcha.. and yeah I think I read somewhere here on the forums its anywhere from 15-25mins of initial cold start that the oil gets to operating temps. It might also have something to do with me running 5w40 all year round too lol.