BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

The only place I can find the kit now is from onlinemazdaparts search for the part number N3Y113S80A

rx8dad

I'm new to this with my son's '04.

I'm also fresh off a intake gasket repair on a 3.1L Chevy with Dex Cool disease.

Just did an oil change today and hopefully, with the summer months ahead, this will get better.

loco-8

i have this, too. thanks for everyone being so helpful. my 2004 ran out of warranty and it occured for the first time today. living in alaska, 60sF usually. About 75 today though. i'm glad it doesn't cause long term problems cause my warranty ran out this past January

Chrisjw

I Have 2 RX8's a 2004 230 and a 2006 Evolve both have the same problem making it hard to read the oil level until the dipstick has been taken out several times and cleaned.
I took them to my local mazda dealer who told me to take em out on a long run and hit the rev limiter a few times. Too many short runs of less than 100 miles causes condensation in the engine which he reassured me is quite normal!

smrtalex

Hi im new to the site and have had the gunk problem since i purchased my 2004 RX-8 in may of 2007. I had no other problems til this winter. I've noticed the smell of coolant after I take the car for a drive, even on shorter trips. If i get it to temperture it always smells of coolant. There is no visible leak that i can see on the ground or anywhere else. There is also a brownish tint to the coolant in the overflow bottle, which i assume to be oil. The other problem i have is when idleing at stop the rpm's go down close to 500 and nearly kills the car. Other than that it still drives well.
Any suggestions or tips?

Also i was wondering how i can tell if the recall work has been done. There is a green streak of paint on drivers side door, and also on enginge cover there is a white 18K and a yellow
B18-1. Does that mean anything?


Oh and car has 51013 miles on it now. In 2007 it had about 42000

azzuro

Looks like I better go for a long drive

Hodger

Hi All,

Am a relatively new RX8 owner - have a 2005 231 and absolutely love the thing.

Was alarmed recently with the creamy gunk I have noticed on my dipstick, which seems to fit the pattern a lot of you are experiencing.

Haven't yet seen a resolution to the problem - do I ignore or should I take some action?

Many thanks in advance

203cobra1

i have the same problem with my 8 and i tought it was a cheap oil treatment i used but i change the oil and the problem still the same. i tryed regular oil and synthetic too and still the same. this only happen when the engine is too cold but my only consern its that the engine light comes on and the engine shakes for a lil while. is this normal? my car has 106,000 miles do i still need to use the 5w20 oil? or other? thanks guys for any help

carbonRX8

iTrader: (1)

As I recommend to all that ask about the dreaded CGOD (creamy gunk on dipstick); Run DO NOT WALK to your nearest dealer and BEG them to run procedure MNAO; 010.234b. This is critical for the health of your motor. If the synthetic hypertrophy initiated in the CGOD formation reaches your rotors, your seals will swell and displace the apex springs.

bob07

iTrader: (1)

azzuro

The "Gunk" is normal-ish (in that quite a few people have it). It is basically water that has mixed with the oil. I discussed this the local Mazda tech in the summer and he said it is condensation from the pressure crankcase vent. I went on long drives on the highway in an attempt to boil it off. Was I successful? I don't know, but it was an excuse to go drive hard on the weekends

As for your CEL and shaking, that's not normal at all and I would recommend pulling the code for the CEL and/or getting your car checked out in detail.

Delmeister

No amount of hard driving made this go away for me, but you won't see anywhere near the cold temperatures that I do. Mazda installed the kit under warranty and the problem went away (although I had to take it back because the mechanic interchanged the colored solenoids, and left a hose unattached. Got a CEL and two trouble codes shortly after leaving the shop)

AlShinka

Yeah same thing's happening to me, does the top most part of the "milky oil" show that that's the oil level, or should i be looking for the black oil...it's about 6 degrees.

GeorgeH

iTrader: (2)

I've always gone with the oil level and ignored the foam, never had a problem in 6 years. Run the dip stick in and out several times, wiping it down every time, and you should eventually get a clean reading.

bboieddie

iTrader: (2)

I had the same issue while living in Saratoga Springs, New York . I saw this white milky substance and somewhat freaked out when i saw it. At the time it was around fall/winter. Highest temp i saw was 65F lowest was around -5F o_O. I looked online for some sort of resolution and sadly i didn't find any. Partly b/c i was way too busy at work. Then i moved to San Diego and no more milky substance. approx. 30k miles later no problems with the engine. So I would suggest a warmer climate. ; )

omgitsdomie

So its not just long drives but also "drive it like you stole it" or "1 redline a day keeps bad stuff away" that I see people post everywhere?

azzuro

The "gunk" is basically water in your oil. The idea behind the long drive "like you stole it", is that the water will boil off eventually. Now the problem lies in the fact that there isn't anywhere convenient for this water vapor to go if it really does boil. So for the most part, I think it just goes back into your oil etc.

There's only two sure bets:

1. Move somewhere warm
2. Modify your PCV Valve. This prevents water condensing in your oil in the first place

With respect to the PCV thing, Mazda can do it for you but obviously it's not cheap.

PureRX8Lover

I did also see this on the oil dipstick, however the temperature dropped from 16 degrees Celcius to -2, in two days. ( Yes I'm from Sweden )

Ofcourse it doesn't have to go from warm to cold, but that could also be a reason. I would think that the difference between the temperature during the day compared to temperature during night is the bad guy here.

frezik

Having been alarmed by this problem earlier today and (after getting my heart back into my chest) finding this thread . . .

If this is true, perhaps taking the oil cap off after a long drive would help get the water vapor out?

azzuro

It might help. But I would think you're just as likely to allow more to get in. Feel free to try it and report back though.

fuztupnz

iTrader: (4)

Thank you for searching frezik

You get 10000 internetz.


Taking your cap off may or may not make a difference, but it's a waste of time. The milky **** on the dipstick isn't gonna hurt anything. It just makes checking your oil take longer. An insulated dipstick tube would make the problem go away, but it more work than it's worth imho. Just make sure you check and change your oil consistently and you'll be fine.

dirkyd3rk

I actually found gunk on my dip stick for the first time today. Its weird because in Houston ive always ran 5w-20 (old and new engine) and the only thing ive done different is switched from 5w-20 to 5w-30. Same area still. Yay i guess

Gingernator

My RX-8 has had this issue in the past and present. My theory is that it is merely caused by cold temperatures, warm up time or not, completely full or half empty oil, it just doesn't like the cold much, so it foams at the mouth.

Bubba100

Mine is an amber color not white. An oil change @ about 2.5K [with filter] does the trick. I think it's def. condensation. Would love to know the inlet source . Prob. the air box [K&N] and then to the coldest part of the motor or any sect. of rotor with vacuum in it when motor is turned off. My guess would be the "resin material intake" . Then start the motor and it prob. pulls all that moisture in & "blenders" it to a amber foam . Exhaust entre seems non believable.-too long and h20 wouldn't like the hot converter. My 8 [04] always produces moisture from exhaust until @ temp or b 4. Moisture will always condense on cold surfaces [in respect to warmer parts], so makes sence to me. I put some of the "goop" on a glass slide and warmed it up with a hair dryer & it did seperate but not completely. I also had to change the rusted oil pan @93K due to internal rust. Water is heaver than oil so it prob. sat in pan [while I slept, LOL] and formed a rust leak. Well thats my two cents. Hope it helps. I got lazy with the oil changes, sooo....

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

Oh boy, how many miles do you have on your engine? That is a lot, the reason I asked is beacuase that's what mine looked like when I noticed a sweet smell out of the exhaust in addition to brown sediment/particles in the reservour.